Plastimo 608-S Roller Reefing

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SULAKO

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Hi, I need to dissasemble an old Plastimo 608-S. From photos I have seen of it, it would appear that I will need to drill out pop rivets to separate the sections of foil. Does anyone have experience of dissasembling this type of reefing? As I will be driving a long way to collect the gear, I want to avoid any nasty suprises when I get there.
 
Reefing

I believe this is the type I have, and I just took most of it apart to replace the forestay.

Yes, the older models are rivetted so you have to drill out the rivets to take it apart.

Things I learned were:

Its not that hard to take it apart, drilling out the rivets was easy with a good drill bit.

All rivets seemed to be 5mm

You may need a tool to help push the plastic inner tube up and down the foils. A selection of flat screwdrivers seemed to do the job.

A different grip range was required to re-rivet the bottom drum to the foil compared to all the other rivets. The drum attach rivets needed to be longer grip range.

When removing the forestay you need to pull out the plastic inner tube from the foil before the forestay comes out, you cant yank it out with the plastic tube still inside!

When threading the new forestay up within the pastic tube, check you dont have the bottom drum upside down.. then check again!

c
 
I cannot help you with dismantling but the fitting instructions should give you a pretty good idea of how it is all fitted together.

Only likely problem will be stainless steel and aluminium bits seized together

INSTRUCTIONS
 
VicS said:
I cannot help you with dismantling but the fitting instructions should give you a pretty good idea of how it is all fitted together.

Only likely problem will be stainless steel and aluminium bits seized together

INSTRUCTIONS
Click to expand...

Vic, those instructions refer to the later version that uses screws rather than rivets. I do have a set of older instructions for the riveted models if anyone wants a copy but it is rather faded as it has got damp at some time.

Slightly off topic but what do you suggest as a barrier between s/s & aluminium? I have to fit a new ali outboard bracket to my little yacht this weekend and was going to use 316 s/s fixings rather than the ferrous ones that the previous owner had fitted.:mad:

BTW to the OP - the rivets are all 4.8mm dia but the length varies depending on where they are used. Anything between 8mm & 17.5mm long.
 
Last edited:
Just a word of warning for eventual reassembly!
It's vital that the large, cranked shackle on the halyard swivel is positioned as illustrated in the instructions in VicS's link.
If fitted the othe way round it causes the upper cap to unscrew and the ball-bearings then fall out.
AS they say,-- how do I know??
 
Slightly off topic but what do you suggest as a barrier between s/s & aluminium? I have to fit a new ali outboard bracket to my little yacht this weekend and was going to use 316 s/s fixings rather than the ferrous ones that the previous owner had fitted.
Click to expand...
Duralac (barium chromate) paste. Or Tefgel

On the other hand I'd not heard of either of these or the need to use anything when I fitted my bracket 30 odd years ago.
 
I did mine recently, fairly straight forward job, although seperating the individual sections (after drilling the rivets) was a bit of a pain, as they had corroded slightly internally, but if this is something you need to do to transport it I'd recommend trying to retain them in sections as large as possible, apart from that no big deal
 
Slycat said:
I believe this is the type I have, and I just took most of it apart to replace the forestay.

Yes, the older models are rivetted so you have to drill out the rivets to take it apart.

Things I learned were:

Its not that hard to take it apart, drilling out the rivets was easy with a good drill bit.

All rivets seemed to be 5mm

You may need a tool to help push the plastic inner tube up and down the foils. A selection of flat screwdrivers seemed to do the job.

A different grip range was required to re-rivet the bottom drum to the foil compared to all the other rivets. The drum attach rivets needed to be longer grip range.

When removing the forestay you need to pull out the plastic inner tube from the foil before the forestay comes out, you cant yank it out with the plastic tube still inside!

When threading the new forestay up within the pastic tube, check you dont have the bottom drum upside down.. then check again!

c
Click to expand...
Thanks Slycat, I was assuming it was fairly straightforward. I just hope there's no serious corrosion making it difficuilt to separate. As I won't be reusing the stay I thought I would cut off the terminal at one end, and just pull the wire out? This makes sense to me, as I won't initially strip it down any more than necessary to get it in the car.
 
Giblets said:
Vic, those instructions refer to the later version that uses screws rather than rivets. I do have a set of older instructions for the riveted models if anyone wants a copy but it is rather faded as it has got damp at some time.

Slightly off topic but what do you suggest as a barrier between s/s & aluminium? I have to fit a new ali outboard bracket to my little yacht this weekend and was going to use 316 s/s fixings rather than the ferrous ones that the previous owner had fitted.:mad:

BTW to the OP - the rivets are all 4.8mm dia but the length varies depending on where they are used. Anything between 8mm & 17.5mm long.
Click to expand...
I would like a copy of your instructions if possible, as I only found the later model on the web. Thanks for the info on the rivet sizes, are they monel or standard alluminium?
 
SULAKO said:
I would like a copy of your instructions if possible, as I only found the later model on the web. Thanks for the info on the rivet sizes, are they monel or standard alluminium?
Click to expand...

I will try and scan them later tonight. PM your email address and I will send 'em on.
 
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