Plank fastenings?

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built well by Harry Phillips of Rye and is still tight today proof that clenched nails can be just as good as any other method.

[/ QUOTE ] Interesting. although I would think the skill of the "clencher" is a important as the method.
 
Re. Not flattening/distorting the washer. Similar principle as Bellville Washers then? Rivet the nail without distorting the washer and the plank expansion when she takes up will provide the tension. Have I got that right?
I reckon it might be prudent to waste a few nails and roves practising on some scrap timber before I tackle the hull.
 
RE Bellville washers I would say so
and yes do a trial run
before working on the boat
RE clenched nails, a very effective way of fastening planking to frames and all the scandinavian soft wood boats that we repaired used this method without a problem, and their nails were galvanised!
 
If using screws surely equally important as having the point protrude and then cutting it off is having a screw whose unthreaded portion matches the thickness of the planking?
 
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If using screws surely equally important as having the point protrude and then cutting it off is having a screw whose unthreaded portion matches the thickness of the planking?

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Of course, however nowadays this can be difficult due to screw manufacturers only producing "preferred" sizes
What a lot of people dont understand is that with a traditional screw there should be a "interference" clearance hole drilled to accomodate the shank, a pilot hole for the threaded section of the screw and countersinking of the head if applicable There used to be a table of drill sizes applicable to screw dimensions
I should have a copy somewhere, but finding it!!!!
Ive reached the stage where everything is in a "safe" place its just remembering which one!!
 
Classic Marine have a chart in there blurb, or Catalogue for screw drill sizes, and you can get almost all the old screw sizes in bronze from Anglia Stainless Steel, so no problems getting the ones you need, or close anyway.
 
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What's the strongest plank to frame fastening?
Screws, nails riveted over roves, or clenched nails?

Reason I ask is I will be doing some frame repairs this winter and, while screws I can deal with single handed, I'll need a mate holding the dolly while I'm peening over the nails. I included clenched nails out of curiosity.

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Copper roves and nails are the most satisfactory way.

I have all the necessary tools which you could borrow if you wish and some nails / roves as well. I am over in Fife however.

One of the most important thing is the relative weights of dolly/ hammer(s) /punch and planking.


Iain
 
I have sistered many a rib. Where there have been cracked ribs you often get a bit of an angle in the adjacent strakes - either caused by the cracking of the rib, or the cause of the cracking of the rib. When I've using roved copper nails, you can actually see the strakes pulling back into the nice smooth hull shape as the rove pulls tight. Where I've had to clench I don't see the same pulling action.

As for the roving tool - I have made them ad hoc by drilling out a bolt to the appropriate size and I have used an old chips' tool. The latter worked far better as (I think I remember) the end was slightly rounded as opposed to the flat end of the drilled out bolt, and it was a better size match to the rove itself. Both worked OK, but one was significantly easier and quicker to use. Same with the dolly - I've used the peen of a large hammer when necessary, but a well designed dolly with a roughened end makes a big difference. Make sure you get the right weight hammers/dolly too.

So - roved copper nails are excellent in my experience, are not tricky to do, but if you're going to do a lot, source exactly the right tools.

SmileyG
 
Something not mentioned so far. Should I use the "next size up" from the existing fastenings when I come to re-fasten? The answer seems fairly intuitive, but I've learned not to assume anything when it comes to boat repairs!

Re. screws: I have a number of different size combination drills that cut the pilot, clearance and countersink holes all in one. Push a bit harder and longer and they'll counterbore too. Got them from Screwfix.
 
As mentioned before, when putting new copper nails in, they should be a tight fit through the drilled hole. If putting new nails into existing holes, there are two options. If the next size of nail up is sufficiently close, you can just go up one size to get a tight fit again. Sometimes the next size up is a big step, however. In this case you can simply wond a turn or two of cualking cotton around the nail, just beneath the head, before tapping it in. It'll work just as the caulking between the planks does.

As to why the RCD recommends screws over roved nails; is it because the holding strength of a screw is more easily quantifiable? With less variation due to the competence of use? Just a guess, but might be the reason.
 
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