Planing teak

Don't listen to these people, they are talking nonsense. Nae offence, like, lads but you are. A belt sander is a useful tool but it does not do the same job as a plane.

Totally agree would make the job massively hard work and nie on imossible specially rough sawn teak Think of the number of belts ! Take care with teak dust, good dust mask carbon filter etc, comes under highly carcinogenic substances list.
 
Powerplane with tct blades or quality 14'' handplane ( $52) with regular carbon steel blades. I would want a small 6 1/4'' block plane ($32)with adjustable throat too just for the odd crossgrained bits..Buy/borrow Stanley or Record, not rubbish..Couple of spare blades as said, an oil stone and oil to sharpen, Bob's your Uncle.

Practise, practise practise- it is annoyingly easy to plane a twist into an edge as you labour away, with the power tool especially.

It sounds as though you are going down the non-electric route. What will really help is to set up a stout straight rigid plank with a batten and 'end stop' at a comfortable height so that you can push the plane properly. Not sure how you will achieve this at anchor unless you have a clear side deck or large foredeck?

And you are in the tropics so nicest to do the work when you have shade and a breeze?

A belt sander is used only for gently fairing down the new teak level with the old, once it is laid.
In the wrong hands it will remove too much in all the wrong places, needs a very light touch, practise with it and especially keep it moving when you start it.

With sharp tools teak is lovely stuff but surprisingly it is, for want of a better word 'brittle'-don' t chuck the planks around, you may get shakes opening up !

NB Prices are Googled, plus shipping from the US to you. Good luck with the lovely new decks !
 
Powerplane with tct blades or quality 14'' handplane ( $52) with regular carbon steel blades. I would want a small 6 1/4'' block plane ($32)with adjustable throat too just for the odd crossgrained bits..Buy/borrow Stanley or Record, not rubbish..Couple of spare blades as said, an oil stone and oil to sharpen, Bob's your Uncle.

Practise, practise practise- it is annoyingly easy to plane a twist into an edge as you labour away, with the power tool especially.

It sounds as though you are going down the non-electric route. What will really help is to set up a stout straight rigid plank with a batten and 'end stop' at a comfortable height so that you can push the plane properly. Not sure how you will achieve this at anchor unless you have a clear side deck or large foredeck?

And you are in the tropics so nicest to do the work when you have shade and a breeze?

A belt sander is used only for gently fairing down the new teak level with the old, once it is laid.
In the wrong hands it will remove too much in all the wrong places, needs a very light touch, practise with it and especially keep it moving when you start it.

With sharp tools teak is lovely stuff but surprisingly it is, for want of a better word 'brittle'-don' t chuck the planks around, you may get shakes opening up !

NB Prices are Googled, plus shipping from the US to you. Good luck with the lovely new decks !

A Power Planer is not for the in-experienced. they will do damage. there is a "knack" required to use them
 
Totally agree would make the job massively hard work and nie on imossible specially rough sawn teak Think of the number of belts ! Take care with teak dust, good dust mask carbon filter etc, comes under highly carcinogenic substances list.

You obviously have no idea what a belt sander is for and how to use one.

The OP pointed out that he was doing repairs and had the timber machined. If he is without power then he is going to have to do it by hand with a plane but if I am doing deck repairs and power is available the belt sander gets used to fair one plank to the next. Why make life difficult.

The belts last for ages if you use a cleaner http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tech7.html
 
You obviously have no idea what a belt sander is for and how to use one.

The OP pointed out that he was doing repairs and had the timber machined. If he is without power then he is going to have to do it by hand with a plane but if I am doing deck repairs and power is available the belt sander gets used to fair one plank to the next. Why make life difficult.

The belts last for ages if you use a cleaner http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tech7.html
I have been a cabinet maker for 30 years had 17 people working for me
Edit use a belt sander daily
 
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If you have lot to do and have £ 200 get one of these will save a lot of time and effort spare blades not too expensive but you will do several miles b4 you need to sharpen or change blades.

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.j...ndid=9806509&ecamp=trf-005&CAWELAID=266909968

I'd second that.. used and still have one of these exact models and they're worth every penny... fitted the whole downstairs with 2nd hand Junckers Jatoba flooring which I believe is one of the hardest woods around and this bit of kit got each plank mm perfect ready for final sanding... if power's an issue, use your own, hire, borrow or buy a decent pure sinewave suitcase style generator for the day and you'll have all your wood skimmed to size within a couple of hours.. assuming you can lift all the boards prior to planng that is

edit: just had an afterthought.. would only be of use if the surface that the boards sit on is perfectly flat to get the wood to sit perfectly too... if you do go this route, keep an eye on the thickness setting as the adjustment handle on this model can move with the vibration during working the wood = a gradual creep in thickness setting.. also watch how you lift the wood out the planner at the end of its travel as it can cause a groove if you don't keep the plank level
 
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I have been a cabinet maker for 30 years had 17 people working for me
Edit use a belt sander daily

Likewise, thats where I earn my living but I am not about to get into whos got the biggest d**k debate.

If you use a belt sander daily you must know what a time saving bit of kit they can be, lets just agree to differ on whether they are suitable to be used on a teak deck
 
Well thank you all again for the usual fabulous info that I have grown to expect from this forum.

No we aren't replacing the whole deck, heaven forbid. Just the few planks that have worn through where the previous owner got over zealous with his sanding!

Fortunately the deck is completely glued, not a single screw to deal with so we are grateful for small mercies. We managed to find a guy at the marina who knew how to use the bench saw available to us in the workshop here and he has cut each plank in half, giving a 4mm thickness, so that gives us a great start on the bits that need replacing urgently.

In the meantime the plane recommended from 'oldtools' has arrived at the daughter's house, along with a guide and sharpening stone so we are good to go once we leave the marina.

Thank you very much for all the valuable help.

www.gerryantics.blogspot.com
 
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