Pine For Panel Batons - Suitability For Yacht Interior

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Hi,

I am replacing the various internal panels in the aft cabin. All woodwork is cosmetic only and simply lines the GRP shell. The panels are: -

  1. 2 x Coach Roof Coaming
  2. 2 x Under deck shelfs
  3. 1 x transom panel

The old panels were held in place by a combination of friction and mastic and actually pulled off quite easily.

I am planning on using 10 mm thick batons, epoxy glued onto the GRP, to fasten the panels onto.

I have available pine, the type bought from B and Q for framing purposes, which is of course low cost. If the pine is glued onto the GRP and coated in epoxy will it be durable or is pine a very poor choice for a yacht in a marine environment? The batons will not be seen.

I have access to a lot of oak strips from a floor job and this could be planed to the thickness and glued in place. The oak is free and kiln dried. Would this be a better choice?

Finally, should I just use marine grade ply for the batons?

Thanks,

BlowingOldBoots
 
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I suspect that B&Q pine is kiln-dried quickly, and will be likely to distort unless held securely every 10 inches or so.

FWIW I did some ash panelling a few years ago, and they were 4 inch lathes fixed at 12 inch centres. The wood didn't move at all.


If you are going to work with the oak, then let it 'mature' in the area where it's going to be used for at least a month to attain humidity equilibrium.
 
I am using 10mm marine grade ply strips for a similar job in my forecabin. It flexes easily into the slight hull curvature, is very stable and shouldn't present any rot problems.

I will probably epoxy everything before covering it up. I intend to fit closed cell foam insulation between the battens. If anyone knows of a good source for this foam, I would be glad to hear of it.
 
B&Q framing softwood is hardly an ideal boatbuilding material, but if it's encapsulated in epoxy I can't see what's actually likely to go wrong.

Pete
 
My cabin was lined with veneered chipboard by the PO. I decided to replace it only after it warped as I had more urgent tasks at the time. That was almost 20 years ago & it still looks good!

I put pine B&Q battens on the headlining to hold it up as a cheap temporary cure. That too is still looking good after about 10 years.

So cheap materials will be OK if the interior is dry - being GRP, SR is bone dry in the cabin. I'm sure it will be different on a classic wooden boats if they have any deck leaks or a lot of condensation.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. The windows are out due to leaks that were not visible and caused a lot of hidden water damage. I will use the marine ply batons.

Thanks,

BlowingOldBoots
 
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