philipine mahogany

[aphay]

Can anyone suggest a supplier of philipine mahogany (fortunately just a small amount for plank replacement) and also grown oak for a new stem, preferabely in the south. Many thanks.

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[Casey]

Try Bamptons, Vespasian Road, Bitterne, Southampton for the Mahogany. There is also a Woodyard on the road from Lyndhurst to Christchurch just North of the turning to New Milton locally famous for Oak.

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[Peterduck]

Don't forget to ask under the other pseudonyms and aliases which this wood has, ie., Meranti and Lauan. Also use only the darkest red variety which you can find. The darker the colour, the more durable the species. What is being sold in the timber yards is a mixture of various species of the genus Shorea, which is why the colours and other properties are different.
Peter.

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[aphay]

Many thanks Casey-I'll try them both. Thanks also Peter. Whilst I had appreciated that the philipine variety was not true mahogany I would like to find as close to the Osborne 1930's original as this has survived amazingly well with only a small amount of localised rot. Thanks again Andrew

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[Spuddy]

Interesting about the alternative names. I've used red meranti with school kids because it was the cheapest hardwood available but found it horrible stuff - stringy, splintery, hard to work - never again. The cheap exterior plywoods could be this stuff as well; a bugger to cut and splinter easily.
I'd have assumed that Philipine mahog was a cut above this and therefore a different species but now you've disillusioned me.
regards..Spuddy

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[dickh]

I agree with you - I think you will find genuine Philipine or Honduras mahogany is FAR superior to meranti & all the sub species - they may be the same general species though. Unfortunately very rare or very expensive nowadays. As you say meranti plywood splinters very badly.

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I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[DRW]

Hello aphay, mine is a 1940 Osborne, mahogany double planked, and this hull has also lasted really well.
I'm starting to repaint and repair the decks and superstructure now, and replace the engine housing.
I would be very interested in swapping notes with you about yours.


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[Kristal]

This gets me thinking - this winter, I'm going to be playing with Crystal's chart table to give a little more instrument space, incorporate a Yeoman chartplotter, and upgrade the switching and power distribution. I know very little about wood, and the differences in where it comes from, but I believe Crystal's interior is fashioned from Brazillian Mahogany.

Presumably, I need to use the same type of Mahogany in the new bits? And if that's so, will it be fairly easy to come across?

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[Casey]

I was in Bamptons the other day and they had an offcut of Mahogany (I didn't ask which sort) about 3ft x21 ins x 2ins. I thought "that looks nice" until I saw the price. £60.00!!! For my new chart table I shall use marine ply!

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[Peterduck]

Here in Oz we can buy veneers of Sapele, [Endantrophragma ivorensis] which will not be the same as Brazilian [Swietenia mahogani or S. macrophylla] but it is dificult to tell the difference. These are coated on one side in a thermal adhesive and can be applied to a plywood base with the First Mate's clothes iron [steam turned off]. These are available at most hardware stores [similar to B&Q] and timber yards, and may well be worth looking for.
Peter

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[Spuddy]

sapele has always seemed to have a more pronounced stripe effect than other mock mahoganys. It was very popular for 1950s coffee tables.
For a chart table, the veneer on top of ply would be favourite but the lipping round the edges would be out of solid and so be a matching species.
One tip is to moisten the surface of what you are thinking of using. That brings out the colour and also shows how it would look after varnishing.
regards...spuddy

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[Kristal]

Thanks, Peter & Spuddy, for this - it sounds like it might save a few bob!

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[aphay]

Hi DRW-just wondering if the pm I sent, made it. Regards Andrew

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