Perspex Windscreen

Well just waffling on a windscreen would presumably be like a dodger in front o f the sliding entrance hatch but with no roof section.
If you want it to fold down then then problems are that the roof of the yacht would not be flat but curved. So you would have to build up the outsides to make a flat surface for the wind screen to hinge on. From there you would make it of thick perspex so not need a frame or thinner with an ali frame. Ultimately it is probably easier and better to get an ordinary dodger with frames that fold down and with sections of transparencies sewn into the canvass. (or perhaps that is what you had in mind anyway) good luck olewill
 
Sorry for lack of info. I am downsizing due to old age etc and the small yacht I am considering (Seawych) has no sprayhood. As the value of the boat is low I do not want to invest in a new hood which would cost £hundreds. I had in mind three pieced of Perspex,the first shaped at the bottom to the hatch cover and the other two for the coachroof at the sides.Fitted with SS hinges and with some method of propping them up when not folded flat,but already I see problems with the grab handles. Ah well, let an old man dream!
 
Aha, Now we're getting somewhere. This picture of the screen on my flybridge shows how it is supported by the hinges joining each section together near the top. The lower edge of each screen must straight to allow them to fold. This is easily done by making up timber supports that match the curve of the coachroof and are flat on top. They can even be made to go over the handrails in matching timber. This could be a very interesting and satisfying little project for you.
 
Please don't use Perspex, use Polycarbonate or Acrylic sheet.
I had a friend with a perspex screen that he pitched into in rough weather. It fractured and the resultant gash to his forehead needed many stitches.
Polycarbonate is used in Riot shields because of it's ability to flex without breaking. Downside is that it scratches more easily.

It will cost you though, the sheet is definitely not cheap.
 
I think Perspex (acrylic) would be fine if you're going to use a frame, but it's possibly right that polycarbonate would be longer lasting if there is no frame. Strangely, I've often wondered whether a similar screen would work on my boat, but so far i've been too lazy to mock it up in hardboard!

Rob.
 
Please don't use Perspex, use Polycarbonate or Acrylic sheet.

??

Isn't Perspex a brand name for acrylic?

The really cheap stuff used on budget picture frames etc is polystyrene (solid polystyrene as opposed to the polystyrene foam we're more used to) and that really would be unsuitable, it cracks very easily.

Polycarbonate seems a good choice though. I've just used some to make a new set of washboards.

Pete
 
??

Isn't Perspex a brand name for acrylic?

The really cheap stuff used on budget picture frames etc is polystyrene (solid polystyrene as opposed to the polystyrene foam we're more used to) and that really would be unsuitable, it cracks very easily.

Polycarbonate seems a good choice though. I've just used some to make a new set of washboards.

Pete

Yup! Perspex = Hoover - if you know what I mean.
 
I need new windows for the little sail boat. I replaced the windows about 10 years ago with perspex due to crazing and cracking due to UV exposure. The same thing has happened again. Would polycarbonate be any more resistant to UV/ olewill.
 
I need new windows for the little sail boat. I replaced the windows about 10 years ago with perspex due to crazing and cracking due to UV exposure. The same thing has happened again. Would polycarbonate be any more resistant to UV/ olewill.
Polycarbonate is not resistant to anything, that's a problem mostly. Short lived really. All sheet materials of it sold are specially made, covered with some anti-scratch, anti-UV and anti-whatever else, I don't much know or care as it's just unsuitable. Those preparations cost a lot, naturally.
The only virtue of polycarbonate (Lexan and such hard kinds, to be precise) is durability - it's not breaking, just elongating or such. But it's also stress-cracking... only advised for " low-stress applications". It makes it impossible to bend to shape, must be bent with proper temperature treatment, hardly possible for on-board job. But naturally laminated, multilayered lexan is the bullet-proof solution, for unbreakable windows.
Same may be made by simply putting some adhesive foil over anything else, though.

Acrylic - Polymethyl methacrylate, PMMA (Plexiglas, Perspex) on the contrary - no need for special covering of the material so it's cheaper; can be bent into any shape desired, can be polished. There are many formulas, from low resistance to hard, strong and not scratching, sometimes called "modified PMMA". All are modified some way - important to check properties. For instance kind meant for exterior use has UV filters blended into the mix. Don't use one not meant for it.
Can be made easily into bent shape, also will not be damaged when cut with normal tools, like saw.
I have a permanent acrylic screen for cockpit, 40 years old, it's OK but a bit foggy now from sunshine. Still visibility is acceptable. Much of cloudiness is matting of exterior surface, must try some polishing.
Nevertheless it's not broken, I did drop some sharp tools on it from the masthead :o
 
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I need new windows for the little sail boat. I replaced the windows about 10 years ago with perspex due to crazing and cracking due to UV exposure. The same thing has happened again. Would polycarbonate be any more resistant to UV/ olewill.

I replaced a few with U/v treated polycarbinate a few years ago (4 ?) , early days yet but holding up very well, just some small scratches here and there. Some of the time was in the tropics so the u/v stuff seems to work well, anything not resistant to u/v shows up quickly under a tropical sun.
 
16 years & many thousands of sea miles on, a home made windscreen using 5mm perspex - no problems whatsoever
 

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I made a simple windscreen, just light perspex curved across the hatch and hand hold suports on my Centaur, with a couple of perspex angle corners for additional strength. Made a great diference to the cockpit comfort on wet and windy days. Got broken by some one crossing to a rafted boat.
I,m now making a frame for the mark 2 from marine ply. Its not designed to fold but is easily removed if necessary.
 
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I made a simple windscreen, just light perspex curved across the hatch and hand hold suports on my Centaur, with a couple of perspex angle corners for additional strength. Made a great diference to the cockpit comfort on wet and windy days. Got broken by some one crossing to a rafted boat.
I,m now making a frame for the mark 2 from marine ply. Its not designed to fold but is easily removed if necessary.
Do you have any photos of your mk1 screen? I would like to study it to see if it is within my capabilities. Many thanks, Peter.
 
Do you have any photos of your mk1 screen? I would like to study it to see if it is within my capabilities. Many thanks, Peter.
Heres a couple of screen shots from a vid that won,t upload.
As you can see mk1 was a fairly basic but quite effective windscreen.
Fixed with home made SS brackets, fix and stick bonding and finished with silver duct tape edging.
 
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