Perspex boat windows bolt and nut removal

[pongoglo]

Once again Im facing up to attempting to do something about that annoying old problem of sorting a leak. It is not catastrophic but like most bl*oody annoying and playing on my mind. I have now tied it down to two possible sources, the most probable being a couple of window bolts that secure the perspex windows to the hull.

It is probably a sealant issue but to resolve I need to remove at least two of the window bolts to confirm the source? This should be a simple job as there is a nut on the inside and a screwhead bolt on the out, however ! Issue is I am working solo so whenever I turn the outside bolt with a screw driver the inside nut merely rotates - and vice verse.

Has anyone else had this problem ? I know, I know merely chat someone up to give you a hand and hold the nut with pliers from the inside - however it is the technical challenge that has got me, there must be some device and a cheap one too that either clamps to the nut on the inside or less likely the screwhead bolt on the outside and that holds it firm to let you unscrew?

 

[pvb]

You could clamp a small mole wrench on to the nut and tie a bit of rope on the end of it to restrain it.

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

+1 Or you could also try a drop of superglue under the head of the screw and then tighten the nut carefully from the inside. All depends on how 'tight' you need to go.

 

[PetiteFleur]

Go with the mole grips and piece of string to restrain it - it works for me. If you remove the whole window use Butyl tape as used in glazing house windows and put a small washer on each screw between the Perspex and hull - this way you don't over compress the seal around the screws and tape.

 

[pongoglo]

like the mole wrench idea a lot, might not even need the string, if the mole wrench rotates it will probably go firm against the top of the hull. Butyl glazing tape..is that better than specialist boat window tape? Surely boat hulls curve and house windows dont? Like the washer ..thanks..

 

[PCUK]

That's exactly what I do Pongo, works without fail every time.

 

[nigelmercier]

... hold the nut with pliers ...

OMG NO!

 

[alahol2]

like the mole wrench idea a lot, might not even need the string, if the mole wrench rotates it will probably go firm against the top of the hull. Butyl glazing tape..is that better than specialist boat window tape? Surely boat hulls curve and house windows dont? Like the washer ..thanks..

Mole grip is the way to go, single handed. Just be careful of where it will drop when you reach the end of the thread.
Arboseal GZ butyl tape is a relatively cheap butyl tape. I have now used it on two boats and I know it works, so that would be my choice.
See here for my take on this job... http://www.troppo.co.uk/odds/Flying%20Fox%20Windows.pdf

 

[pongoglo]

Thanks Tightwad - an excellent article - most helpfull indeed !

 

[ex-Gladys]

+1 for Butyl tape (although I used Scapa tape from Hadlow Marine). It's a great product, although as it beds in you need to go round the screws retightening...

 

[ghostlymoron]

I used butyl tape from the caravan shop. I've often had to do these things single handed wedging a spanner on one end and turning the other. Often ends with spanner falling off! Mole grips and rope is a brilliant idea for the future and I might invest in a small pair just for these operations. (I've already got old big ones)

 

[Clydewanderer]

Ive not read all the replies to your question but i would suggest the mole grips with the cord method or a weight attached to it to hold the nut on inside.
Butyl is a good medium which i used on all boat windows when i replaced them mainly cause i got it free, but i have had to trim off the excess which oozes out in warm weather, every season since fitting them and periodically tighten the screws. I would suggest removing the whole window and resealing as opposed to losening a few of the screws. Afterall you only want to do the job once. BS5750. Do it right first time every time.
Cw