perkins 4-108 frozen

If releasing oil not to hand, a 50:50 mix of power steering fluid and acetone is good. It does sound like the pistons are stuck. Best get a manual before refitting the injectors and if the engine moves, get them checked by a diesel shop. Pretty basic engine. Also have a look at the raw water pump. Dunno about Hawaii, but parts4engines sent me one at short notice at a very good price.
 
Re the gearbox, if the bearings have seized then neutral has no effect. Common issue with boats left for a long time and the engine not run or not run in gear so the gearbox is not turned over, especially if the gearbox is "splash" lubricated like the small Yanmar ones. We see 1 or 2 a year here
 
Perhaps 1964 at our garage it was so cold a the engine in a customers Bedford Van froze up, i.e the engine oil froze. In those days it was common to have a little paraffin heater which you pushed under a sump and it would keep the sump warm which thawed it out. In the same week a land rover which had not been run for over a week froze and the block had a crack in it. Fortunately we were able to have it welded. When it gets to below -10 many antifreezes dont work.
I don't think the OP meant "frozen" in the thermal sense, but " siezed".
 
I have a Volvo MD2010 which I believe is a Perkins derivative. I have been faced with exactly the same situation. The head was removed and water was found in the cylinders.
The heat exchanger was removed and the body pressure tested. This revealed a hole about 3mm dia, between the wet (tube chamber) and the dry exhaust manifold below.
2 weeks prior, the engine had been run up whilst in the marina and showed no signs of any problem.
I am attempting a repair with a radiator epoxy which I will follow with a pressure test, but I may bite the bullet and order a new heat exchanger.
 
I have a Volvo MD2010 which I believe is a Perkins derivative. I have been faced with exactly the same situation. The head was removed and water was found in the cylinders.
The heat exchanger was removed and the body pressure tested. This revealed a hole about 3mm dia, between the wet (tube chamber) and the dry exhaust manifold below.
2 weeks prior, the engine had been run up whilst in the marina and showed no signs of any problem.
I am attempting a repair with a radiator epoxy which I will follow with a pressure test, but I may bite the bullet and order a new heat exchanger.

It would be better to get the heat exchanger welded then pressure tested.

I had major corrosion of my heat exchanger and had it welded up without further issue.
 
I have a Volvo MD2010 which I believe is a Perkins derivative. I have been faced with exactly the same situation. The head was removed and water was found in the cylinders.
The heat exchanger was removed and the body pressure tested. This revealed a hole about 3mm dia, between the wet (tube chamber) and the dry exhaust manifold below.
2 weeks prior, the engine had been run up whilst in the marina and showed no signs of any problem.
I am attempting a repair with a radiator epoxy which I will follow with a pressure test, but I may bite the bullet and order a new heat exchanger.
I can report the identical failure of my MD2030. The symptoms were, in order, Overheat alarm, Low freshwater coolant, unable to refill the coolant - it just kept on disappearing, presumably down the exhaust as well as into cylinders as the engine was impossible to turn over after.
The repair was easy, if expensive, once the problem was diagnosed. At first, cylinder head or its gasket failure were suggested.
 
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