passerelle power Qs: fuse size & service or engine?

vas

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quick Q

sorting out cabling at the lazarette to e/r.

Passarelle MOTOR says 500W @ 24V aka 20something Amps. 25A fuse or 30A? Planning on those bulkhead mounted resettable contact breakers that have a small red lever turning down and a even smaller button to test them
250-AMP-font-b-12V-b-font-DC-font-b-CIRCUIT-b-font-font-b-BREAKER.jpg

Not quite sure how power surge works on this thing.

Second Q is where do I hook the passarelle to, service or engine bank?

Anchor winch and bow thruster are on engine bank.
Should I stick passarelle on there as well? Or rather, any reason NOT to?

cheers

V.
 

jimmy_the_builder

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I'd put the passerelle on the service batteries. Engine battery should only be used to start the engine, or to support devices that will only be used when the engine is running, which is what you'd expect for the winch and the thruster.
 

vas

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thanks J & P,

now the only issue remaining is what Amps the breaker should be!
Pretty sure it doesn't consume much when moving up down in out etc. However, not sure what the current draw is when it reaches the end of the travel and the motor hum changes tone. Will try and look at what the Ammeter shows whilst operating the thing. That would give a good measure.
I have it disconnected the thing after the testing and I can easily connect it just for testing before ordering the breaker (a search around the shops in Volos shows that noone stocks these breakers :(
Another item for my next trip to Athens

cheers

V.
 

Johntheoil

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Hi Vas.......what sort of berth are you on?
If you are 'Med' style mooring' and you want to retract the passerelle for security reasons when you leave the boat, I would imagine you will need to have it connected to a battery bank that you don't want or need to 'isolate' when you leave the boat?
 

vas

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Hi Vas.......what sort of berth are you on?
If you are 'Med' style mooring' and you want to retract the passerelle for security reasons when you leave the boat, I would imagine you will need to have it connected to a battery bank that you don't want or need to 'isolate' when you leave the boat?

oops!

true!
haven't worked out what I'll leave on and what I isolate when leaving and tbh it's not that easy...
Yes it is a med style berth and yes I'd need to retract it when leaving.

However, I also need current to the bilge pumps and for the BMS that runs the GSM card that sends messages about the condition, alarms, etc.
I could get them all on the service bank I guess.
Wonder where other craft have their auto bilge pumps wired to, service or engine?

sorry for moving the question about a bit :D

cheers

V.
 

jfm

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Yep, use house batteries for the reason johntheoil says. Passerelle and its remote receiver eye must be powered when you leave the boat. FWIW on my boat the bilge pumps and passerelle are on the house batteries, and I can isolate everything while still leaving the passerelle and bilge pumps powered, for the same reasons

I leave plenty of other circuits on all the time, like fire alarm, deck lights, GSM communicator, bilge pumps, fridges, and I leave the battery charger on 24/7/365, and I have isolation transformers to avoid electrolysis from neighbouring boats. This is best overall plan imho

The current will spike when the motor is first started but that circuit breaker looks like a slow blow type so should be ok. Only way to know scientifically is to get the time vs current rating of the breaker and oscilloscope the motor, but it is easier just to try it out and hope it is ok
 
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markspark7

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i would go with the lower rating otherwise you have to have a higher cable rating. The type of fuse mentioned is a HRC (high rupture capacity) so start up current of the motor has already been taken care of in the rating. You only need to worry about the nominal running current of the motor under normal load.

regards
 
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