nortada
Well-Known Member
Nothing like a good plank - my wife married one!
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Things I wish I had had for my Med trip 2006-2009
Portable generator - Honda Eu20i
Rocna, or similar, anchor
Passarelle
Better Bimini
Water maker
Air con
Inboard diesel generator
Even in less tidal waters I could imagine ferry wash could cause a similar effect. Moral: lash the pin down to its socket in some way.
Bungee is useful for lifting the plank just off the quay so that it gives as you walk on it, but when we leave the boat we wrap the two lifting ropes round the end of the plank to lift it right up. More of a deterent for rats, thieves. etc.
We use a normal plank but I have cut a slot on the inboard end and fastened a 12mm aluminium swivelling peg into it. This fits into a couple of sockets at different heights on the back of the boat.
The reason we only have a weak peg is that if the plank ever gets trapped between the quay and the lurching boat (wash from the ferry in Poros, Aegean), the peg will shear off and the boat will be undamaged.
Plank is stored flat on the side deck and is no problem when walking forwards.
That sounds logical, at the same time it is worth remembering that sometimes a life can hinge on a single vulnerable point and to have all safeguards against it. My new friend on the next pier is not the only one who has been dropped in it by a passarelle, judging by what others report here.Or do as the vast majority do: don't leave the shore end permanently resting on the quay, but haul it up a little so that the pin is always loaded. Many include a length of bungee in the hoist line so that the end lifts off the quay when nobody is on the passarelle. With a tidal range of a meter this may not be sufficient, in which case it might need to be hauled up each time.
1. Stern to mooring is simple, don't get hung up on it. Take your time and have a long run in to it...
Working out when to drop the anchor (unless there are lazy lines) will be down to loads of practice, don't worry about cocking it up - we all have and we all still do. Nobody will laugh at you for the same reasons. I have a long length of rope 5-10m of 12mm at the bitter end just in case I run out of chain and you are just short of the wall. Normally you get you lines ashore and adjust so you are back onto your chain. If not then haul it all back and start again, as I said practice makes (nearly) perfect.
I had a very nice teak/alluminium passarelle fitted on my last boat. The yard who fitted it said that one of his fitters had been seriously injured falling off a passarelle with a (dodgy) swivel pin mounting. For that reason he recommended an alternative mount which was simply a large SS "U" bracket fixed to the transom. The passarelle could not detach but could only go up and down (but not sideways). I agreed with the logic and had it mounted that way; trouble was that in use, any movement of the boat when the quay end was grounded resulted in horrible stresses at the boat end. We did use the elasticity of a long halyard to a high block mounted on the backstay to keep the passarell off the quay but I used to cringe when thinking about the stress on the transom mount, every time it grounded.
When I moved the passarelle over to my new boat, I had a pin swivel made up instead. Works musch better but I am wary of its stability.
BTW - I much prefer the look of a nice teak passarelle to a plank or a ladder. Sorry but the ladder just looks Heath Robinson to me.
I recommend suspending the shore-side end so it doesn't normally touch.The above stresses are the reason my purpose bult passerelle has castors on the outboard end.