Painting Roller and Tipping

Get into the good habits with the undercoat.
It will mean less sanding and give you good practice
so that you feel confident and comfortable on the top coat(s).
Cheers,
Chris
 
Agree with the above...you can´t hide anything later down the line. For speed I would recommend thin the undercoat and roll it on, as soon as it´s tacking off...roll another one and then another. Later flatten back the surface with p400 and then topcoat. If you´re primer surface has imperfections they will show through all the way later !
 
Helo&Craig said:
Do the undercoats need to be tipped off? or can they just be rolled and a light sand before starting the top coats?

I am painting a 44' ply Spencer with International Brightside.
Click to expand...

It all depends if you are painting for protection or perfection.

You could just roll on primer after sanding and cleaning, then sand the primer with a 250 or 300 grit and apply your new topcoat.

Or.

After the primer has been applied use a long board (Torture board) with grit as above; this will show any low areas that require more primer to give a more even finish.

As stated above preparation is the key.

Hope this helps.
 
I painted a 22 footer with white international perfection, original colour dark blue. I applied one undercoat, one 50/50 undercoat/top coat and one top coat, each one rolled on and tipped off with a foan 'Jenny brush'. I was very pleased with the result - no sign of the original blue showing through. Someone even told me that they could not believe it was not sprayed! I did however move the boat into a shed for the process which I think helped significantly in getting a good finish. In my experience Brightside is significantly easier to roll/tip than Toplac. It is important that you get the amount of thinners correct so that the paint does not start to go off between the roll and tip steps - this was my problem with Toplac, too much thinners required to achieve this and resulting coats very thin. If you had a healper running close behind you with the tipping brush this problem would be reduced. Finally, don't skimp on the initial sanding - there is no substitute for time spent on this with a powerful (about 500 W) random orbit sander. 80 grit followed by 120 worked for me.

Good luck, it can be quiter a satisfying process.
 
The advice to get a solvent-resistant roller is paramount. If buying a box of roller refills, pay a bit more. The cheap ones come away from the core and flop about on your new paint.
I use the exhausted roller to lightly tip-off before recharching it. Foam brushes would work as well if you have the luxury of another hand, but I have found bristle brushes leave too much in the way of marks. However you're in a warmer place than the UK so the paint may flow better.
Be wary of painting when it is too warm as the paint may skin and then slump behind the skin leaving a very unattractive finish.
 
Helo&Craig said:
Do the undercoats need to be tipped off? or can they just be rolled and a light sand before starting the top coats?

I am painting a 44' ply Spencer with International Brightside.
Click to expand...

the key to a good finish si the preparation. the more work you put in at this stage the better top coat.

Totally disregard the sanding technique in the link video, the wet and dry is too small and will give problems later. The wet and dry should be on a block hand sized to make it easy to use this will keep from having highs and low areas of sanding.

If you start with 500 or above you will be there for years doing it, so start sanding with 180 or 220 depending on what the substrate is like.
when its smooth and flat the wash off and wipe clean ready for painting.
the rollers to use are the small bristle type ( very fine bristle which gives a good even coat) NOT foam or long hair type. tip off with paint pads as these give the best finish even as this is still undercoat.

When the undercoat is smooth and flat after sanding again and you feel this is it, mix one part top coat and one part undercoat. and repaint

Now this is the crucial stage when dry you will have a rather matt/sheen coat of questionable colour.

This stage is to show uo where you have missed rubbing down and any imperfections left.

take 400 grit wet and dry start sanding down, this will expose any imperfections you have, rub out the colour imperfections but not so that you go right through.
when satisfied that you have the finish you require in under coat / topcoat, clean and allow to dry thoroughly.

This is the nerve racking bit!!!!

Have a helper who can load on the paint evenly with the short hair roller and you tipping off with the paint pad.

Do not allow any, dry or, near dry, or even longer than usual time between the roller going on and the pad tipping off.

Not sure if i hve explained it that well, if you need any advice please priv me

bob
 
I repainted(fibreglass hull) with Brightside. Preparation is all .

2 coats PREKOTE then light and
2 COATS 50/50 PREKOTE AND GLOSS light sand each
2 coats Gloss
Looks sprayed unless you look closely.
ALL thinned with OWATROL OIL---made application much easier(less "drag")
 
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