Painting props

zoidberg

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I've scraped and burnished my modest 3-blader until there's not a wormcast left. I've also followed just about every thread, hereabouts and Stateside, relating to prop-painting and the battle to keep fouling at bay.

I've come to the conclusion that nothing seems to work reliably on props. The products marketed for the job are expensive, and some preparations are emphatically worse than others in user-reported performance.

So, I'm going to follow the advice of a 20-year experienced paint tech-specialist with a boat of his own..... who agrees that nothing in his company's - or competitors - stables are satisfactory for that job, for he's tried just about everything.

He reckons to paint his well-cleaned prop with his company's primer, then overpaint with white gloss external 'alkathyde' paint, which has ISO Standard 12944-2 'C4' performance. He suggests that will stick in place, and a visual 'over the side' inspection now and then will show, due to the 'white' being colonised and no longer visible, when the prop and adjacent bits need attention. A mid-season dry out alongside to expose the prop - and other interesting sub-surface areas - and a bit of elbow-grease with a Scotchbite ( or similar ) pad to remove the early fouling, followed by another application of white gloss paint should meet the need..... economically and without angst.

Well?
 
Does copper plating work ?

Didn't the Admiralty have a trial of that? They used to careen their vessels - hauled down on their sides - so scraping, tarring and repair work could be carried out.
I commend the idea to Sarabande......
 
If I tried to careen my boat, the mast would be approx 40 up from the horizontal, and that would spill the Sanatogen.
 
Most AF and that specifically for props demands that the vessel, or prop, moves- and then the stuff works, or works more effectively. Most people can only use their yacht intermittently, weather, family or career restrictions and this sadly gives fouling time to settle (and thrive).

Many prop treatments do work, fairly effectively, if you can turn the prop regularly - and this i, I suspect, the basis of most manufacturer's claims.

The alternative is to get over the side a wipe the prop, or hull, down - only with sufficient vigour to remove any fouling - not sufficient to damage the coating.

Really we need the manufacturers to take actual practice into account - though this seems unlikely given the environmental lobby (even though the prop is but a tiny component).

Zoidbergs Suggestion of using white paint is something we have done, by accident, as we have applied white Velox - and it certainly gives indication when some form of remedial action is necessary.

Jonathan
 
Didn't the Admiralty have a trial of that? They used to careen their vessels - hauled down on their sides - so scraping, tarring and repair work could be carried out.
I commend the idea to Sarabande......

In Langstone Harbour there used to be at least three ' Admiralty Paint Stagings ' rafts with a hollow centre through which rows of steel plates were lowered vertically, testing various paints and treatments.

I'd have thought the cross-contamination of plates in close proximity would be a major problem - anyway the Navy wisely leave the development of paints to the manufacturers now.

At least one of the rafts is still there, I think used by Portsmouth Uni' Marine Metallury Unit.
 
Zoidbergs Suggestion of using white paint is something we have done, by accident, as we have applied white Velox - and it certainly gives indication when some form of remedial action is necessary.

Borrowing a thot/principle from a nearby 'Anchor development' thread, that's where I first blagged the idea..... ;)
 
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