Painting over moulded in non-slip

seanfoster

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Hi All,

After a lot of thinking, I've come to the conclusion that I have to paint my GRP deck, mainly due to a few bad stains and a number of small dents and chips that need to be filled.

I was trying to avoid this, but don't think there's any other way forward.
A number of areas has a moulded in fine non-slip pattern, I'm wondering what this would look and feel like after painting, and importantly how effective the non-slip would still be.

I'm going to use a satin finish deck paint (probably Jotun Hardtop HB which is a two pack satin deck paint) there is a non slip additive available so the obvious choice is to use that, however on other boats that I've been on with a similar finish, the deck can be quite coarse if you walk or kneel on them with bare skin.

Can anyone offer their experiences, recommendations, advice?

Thanks in advance!
 

EuanMcKenzie

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I had to paint over a bit of my cabin top on my HR Rasmus around a new hatch etc. to tidy it all up. It has a moulded non slip finish. I used international deck paint which is single pack and has the non slip included. it worked really well and went on with a small roller / heavy brush to leave a smooth finish.

are you repainting the whole deck or just the non slip / heavy traffic areas?
 

Stemar

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I used Premier non-slip deck paint on Jissel and it worked well, including on the moulded "non" slip. Assuming they haven't changed the recipe, the beige is a lot sunnier than it looks on the web page and, to my mind, all the better for it. It went on with a roller and looks good.
 

lpdsn

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I've a similar issue with moulding on the coachroof. I painted non-moulded areas around the side decks with International Interdeck about six years ago but it is wearing thin in a few places and will need to be redone this year or next. I didn't use it on the moulded parts as I expected it to wear quite quickly, and having seen the wear on flat surfaces I was probably right.

So I think you'll definitely need to use two-part with the non-slip additives. I've sailed on a racer that had that done and whilst I wouldn't kneel on the deck with bare knees the surface isn't that rough to the hand and works well as non-slip. I can't see how you'd get any sort of smooth surface that wouldn't be rough on bare skin without losing the non-slip properties.
 

seanfoster

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I had to paint over a bit of my cabin top on my HR Rasmus around a new hatch etc. to tidy it all up. It has a moulded non slip finish. I used international deck paint which is single pack and has the non slip included. it worked really well and went on with a small roller / heavy brush to leave a smooth finish.

are you repainting the whole deck or just the non slip / heavy traffic areas?

Yes I'm repainting the whole deck (not too much of a task as I have all of the deck fittings off to rebed, and it's only a 25 footer!)
 

seanfoster

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Can't you repair the dents and remove the stains? It would be such a pity to paint it, it would never be the same as original grp.


I really have looked at all of my options, the stains just won't come out (been trying for the last 3 years to get them out!) I'm really reluctant to paint as you say, but otherwise it's going to look like a dog's dinner!
 

Rum Run

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I repainted the deck on my Anderson 22 using Jotun Vynagard as a coupling coat and their Conseal single-pack acrylic with two coats and grit in the first coat. Everything went on very nicely, looks good three years after and gives me great confidence whenever I have to go dancing on the foredeck while out in the Wallet.
 

Caer Urfa

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Hi All,

After a lot of thinking, I've come to the conclusion that I have to paint my GRP deck, mainly due to a few bad stains and a number of small dents and chips that need to be filled.

I was trying to avoid this, but don't think there's any other way forward.
A number of areas has a moulded in fine non-slip pattern, I'm wondering what this would look and feel like after painting, and importantly how effective the non-slip would still be.

I'm going to use a satin finish deck paint (probably Jotun Hardtop HB which is a two pack satin deck paint) there is a non slip additive available so the obvious choice is to use that, however on other boats that I've been on with a similar finish, the deck can be quite coarse if you walk or kneel on them with bare skin.

Can anyone offer their experiences, recommendations, advice?

Thanks in advance!

Hi

I have used International Paints 'Interdeck' on my Deckmaster tread areas and its fine after two years and a lot cheaper than the Deckmasters own paint.

One tip is it will dry overnight but I was told not to walk over it for 5 days if possible to allow it to really harden, so I did mine in sections, it can also of course be applied direct to the GRP deck as an anti slip

Mike
After View attachment 48480Before View attachment 48479View attachment 48481
 
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William_H

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My short answer to the OP is I don't know. I painted the GRP deck of my little boat many years ago with 2 pack polyurethane paint. I used plain white a fairly easy paint colour to match and it is so liberating to be able to touch up the paint any time when it suffers from wear, modification or damage. It is easy to keep it looking trim. It seems to get a bit of a touch up every winter.
The white is very bright such that we always have to wear sun glasses. Perhaps not a bad thing as there is plenty of glare off the water. The original beige would have been a far better colour to paint the decks.
However the non skid is a bit of a disaster. I always sail bare foot with light clothing. A harsh non skid is pretty rough on tender skin. My friends complain and my trousers get worn out. It would be aweful on expensive oilies. I used International Interdeck granules. No problem putting them on the non skid areas. If it seems to rough then you slap another thin coat of paint over the paint with granules. I just can't seem to get a good compromise of non skid versus not too harsh.
My little boat gets sailed in a pretty hard active way being very tender. Worst part is trying to climb up onto the gunwhales from the cockpit seat at each tack. Next worse is ballancing on the foredeck gybing the spin. I can't remember if the original non skid was any better but yes the original non skid is pretty smooth now but for the added granules.
Yes GRP boats sem to last for ever so painting is inevitable. All I can say is good luck olewill
 

seanfoster

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Even with Y-10, or cutting back the gel-coat with fine abrasive and re-polishing?

Thanks for your reply, unfortunately most of the staining is in the textured areas so can't sand it, I've also tried lots of oxalic acid made to a high concentration (made into a paste with wallpaper paste) and still no luck!
 

seanfoster

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My short answer to the OP is I don't know. I painted the GRP deck of my little boat many years ago with 2 pack polyurethane paint. I used plain white a fairly easy paint colour to match and it is so liberating to be able to touch up the paint any time when it suffers from wear, modification or damage. It is easy to keep it looking trim. It seems to get a bit of a touch up every winter.
The white is very bright such that we always have to wear sun glasses. Perhaps not a bad thing as there is plenty of glare off the water. The original beige would have been a far better colour to paint the decks.
However the non skid is a bit of a disaster. I always sail bare foot with light clothing. A harsh non skid is pretty rough on tender skin. My friends complain and my trousers get worn out. It would be aweful on expensive oilies. I used International Interdeck granules. No problem putting them on the non skid areas. If it seems to rough then you slap another thin coat of paint over the paint with granules. I just can't seem to get a good compromise of non skid versus not too harsh.
My little boat gets sailed in a pretty hard active way being very tender. Worst part is trying to climb up onto the gunwhales from the cockpit seat at each tack. Next worse is ballancing on the foredeck gybing the spin. I can't remember if the original non skid was any better but yes the original non skid is pretty smooth now but for the added granules.
Yes GRP boats sem to last for ever so painting is inevitable. All I can say is good luck olewill

Thanks for your reply, that's my worry that it will be too rough and tender on sensitive areas (and as anyone who has ever sailed on the sea will appreciate, cuts and grazes and salty water are not much fun!)
 

VicS

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Hi All,

After a lot of thinking, I've come to the conclusion that I have to paint my GRP deck,

Can anyone offer their experiences, recommendations, advice?

Thanks in advance!

I painted the moulded "not so antislip when wet" areas many years ago with International Interdeck. Partly to improve the non slip properties, partly to cut down the glare from the all white decks and partly because I thought it would look good. Successful on all three counts.

Id recommend a light colour, or it gets too hot to sit on or walk on with bare feet.

I initially used a light silver grey ... looked smashing but now is discontinued and I had to use a darker shade when repainting some years later.


BUT old, weathered GRP should be primed and undercoated as recommended in the product data sheet or there is a risk that solvent retention could cause the paint to lift and flake.
 

VicS

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Hi All,

After a lot of thinking, I've come to the conclusion that I have to paint my GRP deck,

Can anyone offer their experiences, recommendations, advice?

Thanks in advance!

I painted the moulded "not so antislip when wet" areas many years ago with International Interdeck. Partly to improve the non slip properties, partly to cut down the glare from the all white decks and partly because I thought it would look good. Successful on all three counts.

Id recommend a light colour, or it gets too hot to sit on or walk on with bare feet.

I initially used a light silver grey ... looked smashing but now is discontinued and I had to use a darker shade when repainting some years later.


BUT old, weathered GRP should be primed and undercoated as recommended in the product data sheet or there is a risk that solvent retention could cause the paint to lift and flake.
 

seanfoster

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I painted the moulded "not so antislip when wet" areas many years ago with International Interdeck. Partly to improve the non slip properties, partly to cut down the glare from the all white decks and partly because I thought it would look good. Successful on all three counts.

Id recommend a light colour, or it gets too hot to sit on or walk on with bare feet.

I initially used a light silver grey ... looked smashing but now is discontinued and I had to use a darker shade when repainting some years later.


BUT old, weathered GRP should be primed and undercoated as recommended in the product data sheet or there is a risk that solvent retention could cause the paint to lift and flake.

Thanks Vic,

I think from the number of replies saying they've done it, it's the way to go, I'll just have to wait till the weather gets better and temperatures rise 'till I get on with it.
 

Ludd

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Thanks Vic,

I think from the number of replies saying they've done it, it's the way to go, I'll just have to wait till the weather gets better and temperatures rise 'till I get on with it.
like Euan with his Rasmus, ALL my moulded in non-slip deck was painted 11 years ago.with International deck paint(non-slip included). It's still effective, but will need re-doing for cosmetic purposes( rust stains off the anchor chain) soon.
 

KRG

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I used Interdeck on my previous boat with good success, I did 3 coats over 11 years. It did wear thin but looked great when redone.

Be careful using 2 pack paints and additives, my new (to me) boat has had the deck done with Awlgrip and non slip additive. Where the top of the surface has worn the small additive grit has come out leaving many small pitholes which have become dirty and discoloured leaving a very scruffy looking deck. The additive is no-where near as even and uniform as the interdeck covering was. As it was done in two pack it is quite thick and in places around fittings it has chipped. I'm considering that kiwi deck stuff or a good sand and Interdeck, the only trouble with interdeck is the limited colour range.
 

VicS

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I used Interdeck on my previous boat with good success, .................................................................. the only trouble with interdeck is the limited colour range.

A fine textured masonry paint has often been suggested as an alternative.
 
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