jfkal
Well-Known Member
Depends where you are. I used Poliglow in the tropics. Nice after it was done. Thereon it attracted dirt and grime in no time. Looked like sh$%^. Rubbed it all off. Totally useless.
Painting over gelcoat.
- Thread starter Ceirwan
- Start date
MERMAID137
Well-Known Member
Hi,
if painting over gelcoat it is really best to use two pack epoxy, you can usually pick up discounted supplies at boat jumbles
Steve
if painting over gelcoat it is really best to use two pack epoxy, you can usually pick up discounted supplies at boat jumbles
Steve
castaway
Well-Known Member
I used some stuff called 'Polytrol' years ago which sounds like it came from the same stable.
i thought it was the best stuff ever !!
For the 1st month !
After that it was ..as you say..useless.
If I was tarting up an old boat for sale I would think about using it. ;-(
Regards Nick
i thought it was the best stuff ever !!
For the 1st month !
After that it was ..as you say..useless.
If I was tarting up an old boat for sale I would think about using it. ;-(
Regards Nick
Sequoiah1
Well-Known Member
If you have a white Gel coat then cleaning with oxalic acid could be considered. Charter fleets used to do this in the med with impressive results.
Painting a GRP hull, subject to the paint used should last five years before a repaint but that largely depends how and where the boat is moored etc, in terms of wear.
Painting a GRP hull, subject to the paint used should last five years before a repaint but that largely depends how and where the boat is moored etc, in terms of wear.
William_H
Well-Known Member
Give it one extrra go to clean up the original gel coat. (lots of acid) If you must paint it do it the same colour as the gel coat. Painting of non slip areas is a disaster as it all becomes too smooth. But ultimately it has to be painted use 2 pack Polyurethane or similar. olewill
castaway
Well-Known Member
Hi This one comes up pretty often, and after I had spent a month or more re finishing the decks on my Halberdier, I sorted all the relevant post and saved then as a doc. Which I copied below.
I always like the sort of info ( which is included) like don't use wash up liquid to wash down 'cause it has lanoline in it !...Sort of thing you would never think of....
______________________________________________
“Fairweather’s” Decks repaint June/July 2006
These are a few posts from the YBW web site www.ybw.com
Mainly posted by myself and a contributor from Brisbane called ‘Oldsaltoz’ who talks a lot of sense.
Not necessarily in the correct order
Having completed a similar job on Fairweather this summer, I can tell you its a big job!
I contacted International Paints and got some tech advise, which in short was:
Over GRP no primer required
2 coats of under coat
2 coats of Top coat ( I used Toplak)
Abrade and wash down all areas to be painted...don’t use wash up liquid as it may have lanolin in it!
I split my decks up into 4 sections and tried to do them each in one hit...this avoids having to abrade in between coats.
I found that using plastic masking tape is much better than the paper stuff if you are having to leave the job between coats as you may be able to leave it in place.
Note that the above is not recommended as it can lift the drying edge of the paint but does save a lot of time…your call!
I applied the paint with a brush..top quality synthetic job and then rolled it off with a mini roller... I know this is the otherway round to the accepted way but it worked for me and gave a very even coat however with a slightly stippled effect.
I’m very pleased with my 'new' decks and superstructure but it took 7 x 2day 14hrs days!! and I'm bl##dy glad its over.
Its also like a skating rink..will deal with this next spring before I have a nasty accident
1 last thing. I was painting over existing single pack paint so I had to use conventional paint ( Toplac) I think if I was going direct onto GRP I would consider using 2 pack as its far more durable.
Good luck.. Nick
PS there was an article about some one who 2pot painted their Rival (I think) down in Greece in one of the Mags early this year.
--------------------
It's very important to clean "before" sanding, contaminants like silicon and lanolin will not be removed by sanding, just spread.
A two pot polyurethane will last many years, look for one with long chain polymers, it will have very good self leveling.
Sanding can be done with an industrial orbital (Not belt) sander and a 200 grit paper for starters, then perhaps 250 or 400 to finish, look any shiny bits in low areas and hand them or you may have flaking problems down the track.
When sanding is finished wash well, a pressure cleaner is good, let it dry and wipe with the thinner you have for the type of paint being used or Acetone, just make sure you have lots of white cotton rags and keep changing them.
Masking tape should be removed as soon as the final coat is applied, follow the painter round and lift it as he goes.
Other than that all you have is lot of hard sanding and squinting your eyes trying so spot defects through the glare of the sun (if you get some).
Avagoodweekend......OldsaltOz
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have just finished doing his job and picked up a few tips along to way.
My decks had been previously painted and the paint was sound but eroded back to an even earlier paint finish.
A few points that might help:
You don’t need primer, go straight onto the grp with undercoat.
Try to split the job into sections that you can complete in one days work..that way with summer temps you can just about get the 2 coats of under coat and 2 top coat on in one day or at any rate 2 under and 1 top in one day and the final top coat next morning. This saves abrading between coats and also stripping off and re masking. I split mine in to 5 sections.
Good earlier point about not using washup liquid due lanoline, I actually used Internationals own stuff just in case of that sort of problem....you won't find out until next year!!
I found the plastic masking tape really useful and not much more expensive than paper tape, and you can leave it on if you need to.
I applied the paint with a brush and then rollered it out with a small foam roller, get decent ones, and on hot days (they were all hot for me)I used a bit of flow enhancer (303 I think) as the paint was drying too fast.
I was painting in shorts and it amazing how many hairs drop off arms and legs..either wear overalls or shave!
I bought quality synthetic brushes from Homebase (or similar) and didn’t loose a single brush hair...well worth the extra cost.
I kept a tack rag tucked in my belt to mop up ineviable bits of dust grit and bl##dy hair, plus vacuumed the entire area just before starting.
I used Toplac and Internationals were quite helpful but appear to consider it strange that I should want to buy paint in cans bigger that 750ml in an effort to reduce cost.. it appears that they only sell white in 2.5 ltr cans.
It took me around 8 days at 14hrs a day to do my Halberdier at 36 ft.
Good luck.
Nick
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
G'day Robert,
You can avoid the patchy touched up look to some degree by masking off a strip along the toe rail about the same length on both sides.
Ensure you clean the area before abrading or you will rub contaminants into the base.
Wash dust away with fresh water under pressure and wipe dry then wipe with a tack cloth after it has fully dried but only just prior to painting.
If you roll on and tip off with a fine long bristle brush you should get a good finish but may require more than one coat.
Hope this helps
Avagoodweekend......OldsaltOz
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This year was the year of the deck: I had planned with the yard to put Fairweather along side the jetty, rather than on her usual swinging mooring, and expected the job to take 8-10days work.
The decks had been painted before, but despite the fact that the surface was 'sound', the finish had eroded and the appearance was very poor over all the GRP decks cabin sides and top.
To keep it brief the job was bl##dy hard work..4 coats (2 under and 2 top coats) of paint, this after removal of all the 'easy' (huh!) bits of deck gear, flatting down, cleaning applying with brush and finishing with a foam roller.
Ended up with 8 days of about 14hrs work per day, but what a difference! Fairweather now looks smart again and I am just wrapping up the last bits and counting the cost...
The cost of paint! and it doesnt go far either! Undercoat at £10 for 750ml and Toplac at £18 for the same size I reckon I used 7 cans of under coat and 7 of finish, about £200 in total what really did shock me was the cost of rechoming..I thought I had better rechome some of the bits whilst they were off the deck....3 cleats ( the type with the wooden bar) 2 engine room louvers approx 10inch sq and a couple of mushroom vents...£200 plus Vat!
Add to all this the extra cost of lying alongside the jetty(additional £500) and the abrasives cleaning agents sealants etc. and the total for the job was around £1000.
Add that to the lost sailing time and the hard slog of long days spent contorted in the sun, laying off paint and masking off a million bits and pieces; was it all worth it?.
Yes over all I’m really glad I did it, but even happier its all over, and I'm going sailing tomorrow!
All best Nick
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And of course being judged by ones peers!!
We put-putted past Fairweather last night and commented how smart she's looking. Nice job.
Goldie
I second Goldie's comment. I've been keeping an eye on progress as I come and go along the jetty.
I know it's Ivory but I still think it looks White!
John
______________________________________________
Hope that helps
Regards Nick
I always like the sort of info ( which is included) like don't use wash up liquid to wash down 'cause it has lanoline in it !...Sort of thing you would never think of....
______________________________________________
“Fairweather’s” Decks repaint June/July 2006
These are a few posts from the YBW web site www.ybw.com
Mainly posted by myself and a contributor from Brisbane called ‘Oldsaltoz’ who talks a lot of sense.
Not necessarily in the correct order
Having completed a similar job on Fairweather this summer, I can tell you its a big job!
I contacted International Paints and got some tech advise, which in short was:
Over GRP no primer required
2 coats of under coat
2 coats of Top coat ( I used Toplak)
Abrade and wash down all areas to be painted...don’t use wash up liquid as it may have lanolin in it!
I split my decks up into 4 sections and tried to do them each in one hit...this avoids having to abrade in between coats.
I found that using plastic masking tape is much better than the paper stuff if you are having to leave the job between coats as you may be able to leave it in place.
Note that the above is not recommended as it can lift the drying edge of the paint but does save a lot of time…your call!
I applied the paint with a brush..top quality synthetic job and then rolled it off with a mini roller... I know this is the otherway round to the accepted way but it worked for me and gave a very even coat however with a slightly stippled effect.
I’m very pleased with my 'new' decks and superstructure but it took 7 x 2day 14hrs days!! and I'm bl##dy glad its over.
Its also like a skating rink..will deal with this next spring before I have a nasty accident
1 last thing. I was painting over existing single pack paint so I had to use conventional paint ( Toplac) I think if I was going direct onto GRP I would consider using 2 pack as its far more durable.
Good luck.. Nick
PS there was an article about some one who 2pot painted their Rival (I think) down in Greece in one of the Mags early this year.
--------------------
It's very important to clean "before" sanding, contaminants like silicon and lanolin will not be removed by sanding, just spread.
A two pot polyurethane will last many years, look for one with long chain polymers, it will have very good self leveling.
Sanding can be done with an industrial orbital (Not belt) sander and a 200 grit paper for starters, then perhaps 250 or 400 to finish, look any shiny bits in low areas and hand them or you may have flaking problems down the track.
When sanding is finished wash well, a pressure cleaner is good, let it dry and wipe with the thinner you have for the type of paint being used or Acetone, just make sure you have lots of white cotton rags and keep changing them.
Masking tape should be removed as soon as the final coat is applied, follow the painter round and lift it as he goes.
Other than that all you have is lot of hard sanding and squinting your eyes trying so spot defects through the glare of the sun (if you get some).
Avagoodweekend......OldsaltOz
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I have just finished doing his job and picked up a few tips along to way.
My decks had been previously painted and the paint was sound but eroded back to an even earlier paint finish.
A few points that might help:
You don’t need primer, go straight onto the grp with undercoat.
Try to split the job into sections that you can complete in one days work..that way with summer temps you can just about get the 2 coats of under coat and 2 top coat on in one day or at any rate 2 under and 1 top in one day and the final top coat next morning. This saves abrading between coats and also stripping off and re masking. I split mine in to 5 sections.
Good earlier point about not using washup liquid due lanoline, I actually used Internationals own stuff just in case of that sort of problem....you won't find out until next year!!
I found the plastic masking tape really useful and not much more expensive than paper tape, and you can leave it on if you need to.
I applied the paint with a brush and then rollered it out with a small foam roller, get decent ones, and on hot days (they were all hot for me)I used a bit of flow enhancer (303 I think) as the paint was drying too fast.
I was painting in shorts and it amazing how many hairs drop off arms and legs..either wear overalls or shave!
I bought quality synthetic brushes from Homebase (or similar) and didn’t loose a single brush hair...well worth the extra cost.
I kept a tack rag tucked in my belt to mop up ineviable bits of dust grit and bl##dy hair, plus vacuumed the entire area just before starting.
I used Toplac and Internationals were quite helpful but appear to consider it strange that I should want to buy paint in cans bigger that 750ml in an effort to reduce cost.. it appears that they only sell white in 2.5 ltr cans.
It took me around 8 days at 14hrs a day to do my Halberdier at 36 ft.
Good luck.
Nick
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
G'day Robert,
You can avoid the patchy touched up look to some degree by masking off a strip along the toe rail about the same length on both sides.
Ensure you clean the area before abrading or you will rub contaminants into the base.
Wash dust away with fresh water under pressure and wipe dry then wipe with a tack cloth after it has fully dried but only just prior to painting.
If you roll on and tip off with a fine long bristle brush you should get a good finish but may require more than one coat.
Hope this helps
Avagoodweekend......OldsaltOz
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This year was the year of the deck: I had planned with the yard to put Fairweather along side the jetty, rather than on her usual swinging mooring, and expected the job to take 8-10days work.
The decks had been painted before, but despite the fact that the surface was 'sound', the finish had eroded and the appearance was very poor over all the GRP decks cabin sides and top.
To keep it brief the job was bl##dy hard work..4 coats (2 under and 2 top coats) of paint, this after removal of all the 'easy' (huh!) bits of deck gear, flatting down, cleaning applying with brush and finishing with a foam roller.
Ended up with 8 days of about 14hrs work per day, but what a difference! Fairweather now looks smart again and I am just wrapping up the last bits and counting the cost...
The cost of paint! and it doesnt go far either! Undercoat at £10 for 750ml and Toplac at £18 for the same size I reckon I used 7 cans of under coat and 7 of finish, about £200 in total what really did shock me was the cost of rechoming..I thought I had better rechome some of the bits whilst they were off the deck....3 cleats ( the type with the wooden bar) 2 engine room louvers approx 10inch sq and a couple of mushroom vents...£200 plus Vat!
Add to all this the extra cost of lying alongside the jetty(additional £500) and the abrasives cleaning agents sealants etc. and the total for the job was around £1000.
Add that to the lost sailing time and the hard slog of long days spent contorted in the sun, laying off paint and masking off a million bits and pieces; was it all worth it?.
Yes over all I’m really glad I did it, but even happier its all over, and I'm going sailing tomorrow!
All best Nick
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And of course being judged by ones peers!!
We put-putted past Fairweather last night and commented how smart she's looking. Nice job.
Goldie
I second Goldie's comment. I've been keeping an eye on progress as I come and go along the jetty.
I know it's Ivory but I still think it looks White!
John
______________________________________________
Hope that helps
Regards Nick
david100952
Well-Known Member
Painted my Jag 22 when newly aquired last winter with Blakes Brilliant Yacht enamel. Boat had previously been "painted" using God knows what and a yard broom so MANY hours of sanding as described elsewhere.
TOP TIPS:
1) Use a high density 4 inch foam roller from a trade decorators merchant, thin paint 10-15% depending on o/s temp and have someone follow you to point out marks or runs, easily smoothed by squeezing out the paint from the foam and go over run in a matrix.
2) to remove wax or just about anything else that could affect your finish the cheapest and best thing to use is "Gun Cleaner" avalable from any industrial trade supplier to the spray finishing trade. It is used to clean spray guns so it is extremely good at removing all contaminents and leaves no residue and the best bit is its really cheap (5 litres is about £6)
Initially the idea was to do this as a stop-gap measure and remove when I had time and money for new gel coat. It looks so good after the first season in the water I would be barmy to do anything but polish it
Kind Regards and good luck with your project
TOP TIPS:
1) Use a high density 4 inch foam roller from a trade decorators merchant, thin paint 10-15% depending on o/s temp and have someone follow you to point out marks or runs, easily smoothed by squeezing out the paint from the foam and go over run in a matrix.
2) to remove wax or just about anything else that could affect your finish the cheapest and best thing to use is "Gun Cleaner" avalable from any industrial trade supplier to the spray finishing trade. It is used to clean spray guns so it is extremely good at removing all contaminents and leaves no residue and the best bit is its really cheap (5 litres is about £6)
Initially the idea was to do this as a stop-gap measure and remove when I had time and money for new gel coat. It looks so good after the first season in the water I would be barmy to do anything but polish it
Kind Regards and good luck with your project
Cotillion
Well-Known Member
Don't do it!
You will be embarking on a lifetime of servitude to the brush. Or at least until you get fed up with it.
A scruffy unpainted boat is prettier than a scruffy paint flaking one.
You will be embarking on a lifetime of servitude to the brush. Or at least until you get fed up with it.
A scruffy unpainted boat is prettier than a scruffy paint flaking one.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Be careful when buying gun cleaner as some outlets just sell you a cheap cellulose thinner. Great for cleaning guns, but will probably crinkle-up whatever paint finish you wipe it on. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
david100952
Well-Known Member
The hint is in the subject line:
"Painting over Gelcoat". I therefore assumed that the question did not relate to painting over a previously painted surface. However Lakesailor is quite correct in pointing out that gun-cleaner is very often made of reconstituted cellulose thinners and is therefore quite good for removing paint, (especially from sprayguns), it will not "crincle-up" dried paint unless you leave enough on a standing surface or leave a saturated rag on a painted surface. It evaporates very quickly so you use it on a clean wiping cloth to remove any contaminents from the surface but as with any concentrated flammable care should be taken and especially if used in confined spaces. Breathing the vapours or smoking is not good!
"Painting over Gelcoat". I therefore assumed that the question did not relate to painting over a previously painted surface. However Lakesailor is quite correct in pointing out that gun-cleaner is very often made of reconstituted cellulose thinners and is therefore quite good for removing paint, (especially from sprayguns), it will not "crincle-up" dried paint unless you leave enough on a standing surface or leave a saturated rag on a painted surface. It evaporates very quickly so you use it on a clean wiping cloth to remove any contaminents from the surface but as with any concentrated flammable care should be taken and especially if used in confined spaces. Breathing the vapours or smoking is not good!
FAITIRA
Well-Known Member
Want a hol in Galicia, May! Fly you to Santiago, absolutely lovely job, I have the TOPLAC waiting for you???? Nic 32, great challenge for a man with that sort of talent. Bill.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
I've just spent a month completely re-decorating a 3 bed cottage.
Thanks, but painting is off my wish-list at present /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks, but painting is off my wish-list at present /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Slow_boat
Well-Known Member
It's really not a big or difficult task to get a decent finish, it's just preparation, choosing your time and relaxing into the task.
Good luck.
Good luck.
FAITIRA
Well-Known Member
Pity! you obviously have the touch, as nice a brush job i,ve ever seen. Bill.