mad4pike
New Member
has anyone painted a grp boat with international toplac im just sanding the old paint off my 14ft grp boat ive watched the video but any more hints ,tips wouldnt go amiss cheers
painting my boat
- Thread starter mad4pike
- Start date
Spuddy
Well-Known Member
I used wet or dry to get a half decent surface. Mate used a roller to tosh it on followed by me with a jenny brush (foam thing) to tip off - ie lightly drag it down vertically. Never seen the video.
oldsaltoz
Well-Known Member
You should have washed it before sanding, than used a solvent to remove any contaminants like oil, silicon, wax etc.
You can still wash it and clean it with a solvent, Acetone shold do a good job.
Avagoodweekend......
You can still wash it and clean it with a solvent, Acetone shold do a good job.
Avagoodweekend......
billcowan
Well-Known Member
Old polyeurithane paint like toplac, comes off great with steam from a wallpaper stripper, using the small shoe and a cabinet scraper. no dust etc, and very effective where there are lots of leyers to strip.
Agree, degrease with as strong a solvent as you can bear.
sand well for a good key,
use smallish (8") fine flock roller, with a soft brush following behind.
Oh and dont stop for tea halfway down the side, the join WILL show.
When it gets scratched or gouged in use, just mix up a little left over paint that you kept, and touch up with a small artists brush.
Painted boats are OK, a little more maintainance than gelcoat, but a lot less worry as damage is so easily repaired!
Agree, degrease with as strong a solvent as you can bear.
sand well for a good key,
use smallish (8") fine flock roller, with a soft brush following behind.
Oh and dont stop for tea halfway down the side, the join WILL show.
When it gets scratched or gouged in use, just mix up a little left over paint that you kept, and touch up with a small artists brush.
Painted boats are OK, a little more maintainance than gelcoat, but a lot less worry as damage is so easily repaired!
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
At this time of year try to heat the area, (but not with a fan heater, or any blower). As much to reduce humidity as raise the temp. Also make sure the paint is warmish (50 -60 degrees F) If it's cold it won't flow, and if it's too hot it will skin.
As suggested, brush it off with a downward stroke, to avoid runs, and work out the best way to keep a wet edge as you work.
(some of this info from my mate, who is the City and Guilds Chief Examiner in Painting and Decorating, His Westerly Merlin looked like a spray job after he had rollered it)
As suggested, brush it off with a downward stroke, to avoid runs, and work out the best way to keep a wet edge as you work.
(some of this info from my mate, who is the City and Guilds Chief Examiner in Painting and Decorating, His Westerly Merlin looked like a spray job after he had rollered it)
Bodach na mara
Well-Known Member
I am interested to read in other posts the advice to tip off vertically. I have seen several boats around the Clyde where the vertical marks are quite noticable. I was always told to make your final very light strokes horizontally and can get a pretty good finish. Not one which would be mistaken for spray however. So spill the beans Lakey. How does your mate do it?
bobgoode
Well-Known Member
Necer horizontal lay-off, ridges will build. Always lay-off vertically, but do it with a really good BRUSH and very lightly.
Warm the paint and thin it 5-10% befor eapplication
Warm the paint and thin it 5-10% befor eapplication
Nigeldownes
Well-Known Member
I did a four year craft apprenticeship in refinishing 20 odd years ago., never painted a boat but I recon its more or less the same as anything else.
Always de-grease with approved solvent.
Loads of sanding down to flatten and key the surface, this is the secret of final finish.
Paint can be heated but it changes the viscosity and will sag easily, if you can don’t add to much solvent as you get a better coat. If heated it wont need thinning. Heat in hot water. Remember to stir it really well making sure you get all the pigment up from the bottom, then stir it again to make sure.
If using a roller or brush buy from a specialist shop and get the best quality, Hamilton’s are pretty good ask the advice of the sales person, and get a brush big enough for the job.
Don’t do it on a hot day as this will dry the paint out to fast but don’t do it on a damp day as this may result in bloomed (cloudy) finish. Don’t paint in overcast light as you won’t be able to see what you’re doing.
Check the weather report first. It mustn’t rain for at least 24 hours.
Do not pick a windy day so as to avoid dust and debris blowing on to the surface, and is you can damp the ground where you are painting with buckets of water this will help stop dust. Make sure surface to be painted is dust free, I suggest buying a tack rag (a sticky rag).
Get a large board and do some practice first to get a feel of the paint.
Make sure your brush is clean.
Lay the paint of after the first application, vertically using a lot of pressure, immediately lay off again horizontally and then again vertically. Ease off on the pressure every time, the more you can lay off the better the finish. Remember its all about dragging out the brush strokes. Your arm should hurt after a while if you’re doing it right. Never finish off horizontally as light catches the brush marks and therefore shows up easily. As you go along keep emptying your brush of excess paint.
The technique to a good finish is to always work and spread the paint out evenly and to work out the brush strokes. If done well from a few feet away it will look like a spray job.
Lastly, go like the clappers, as the paint dries it gets harder to work out the brush strokes.
You can apply with a roller whilst the other finishes with a brush.
Hope this helps.
Always de-grease with approved solvent.
Loads of sanding down to flatten and key the surface, this is the secret of final finish.
Paint can be heated but it changes the viscosity and will sag easily, if you can don’t add to much solvent as you get a better coat. If heated it wont need thinning. Heat in hot water. Remember to stir it really well making sure you get all the pigment up from the bottom, then stir it again to make sure.
If using a roller or brush buy from a specialist shop and get the best quality, Hamilton’s are pretty good ask the advice of the sales person, and get a brush big enough for the job.
Don’t do it on a hot day as this will dry the paint out to fast but don’t do it on a damp day as this may result in bloomed (cloudy) finish. Don’t paint in overcast light as you won’t be able to see what you’re doing.
Check the weather report first. It mustn’t rain for at least 24 hours.
Do not pick a windy day so as to avoid dust and debris blowing on to the surface, and is you can damp the ground where you are painting with buckets of water this will help stop dust. Make sure surface to be painted is dust free, I suggest buying a tack rag (a sticky rag).
Get a large board and do some practice first to get a feel of the paint.
Make sure your brush is clean.
Lay the paint of after the first application, vertically using a lot of pressure, immediately lay off again horizontally and then again vertically. Ease off on the pressure every time, the more you can lay off the better the finish. Remember its all about dragging out the brush strokes. Your arm should hurt after a while if you’re doing it right. Never finish off horizontally as light catches the brush marks and therefore shows up easily. As you go along keep emptying your brush of excess paint.
The technique to a good finish is to always work and spread the paint out evenly and to work out the brush strokes. If done well from a few feet away it will look like a spray job.
Lastly, go like the clappers, as the paint dries it gets harder to work out the brush strokes.
You can apply with a roller whilst the other finishes with a brush.
Hope this helps.
Bodach na mara
Well-Known Member
Ah yes, I remember. Apply in horizontal strokes, spread vertically, lay off horizontally and VERY lightly tip off vertically. The vertical strokes barely touch the paint. I must admit to often applying vertically and starting the distribution horizontally making five passes in total.
Well, it's a long time since I painted and that was doors in the house. I have been putting off any further work of that nature until I "have time when I retire." These chickens come home to roost in three weeks, two hours and twenty one minutes.
Well, it's a long time since I painted and that was doors in the house. I have been putting off any further work of that nature until I "have time when I retire." These chickens come home to roost in three weeks, two hours and twenty one minutes.
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
Don't know how he does it. He does all those fancy paint finishes like ragging and graining etc. Mind you he was a lecturer in painting and decorating for 30 years.
He does tip off with a very good brush with very long bristles. I know that much. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Incompetent_crew's description is about as good as you get.
He does tip off with a very good brush with very long bristles. I know that much. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Incompetent_crew's description is about as good as you get.
