BruceK
Well-known member
As above. Primer tie coat and not direct to metal from what I gather. Delighted to be proved wrong as they are rather spare on info and is used on the engines as well.
Painting DP-G out-drives - back to bare metal - NOT ANTIFOULING
- Thread starter alt
- Start date
alt
Well-known member
So, time is looming and in about 2 weeks i'll be starting this job.
What I have decided, is that i'm not going back to metal. I will sand all the old anti-foul off and I presume i'll find a previously well prepped out-drive. So, keep sanding back until I have a nice key.
1) What primer would you use? Fresh water, not being anti-fouled.
2) What paint would you use? I'd like to get a glossy Volvo-grey colour, if possible. There are local paint places in my area, but any advise would be appreciated.
3) There are some small areas at the bottom of the skeg which are back to bare metal, so should a different primer be used? I know traditionally an etch primer would be used, but someone mentioned a chromium primer (green stuff, seen it on Youtube vids) but it's not available here?!
(I'll be using a spray gun, btw).
What I have decided, is that i'm not going back to metal. I will sand all the old anti-foul off and I presume i'll find a previously well prepped out-drive. So, keep sanding back until I have a nice key.
1) What primer would you use? Fresh water, not being anti-fouled.
2) What paint would you use? I'd like to get a glossy Volvo-grey colour, if possible. There are local paint places in my area, but any advise would be appreciated.
3) There are some small areas at the bottom of the skeg which are back to bare metal, so should a different primer be used? I know traditionally an etch primer would be used, but someone mentioned a chromium primer (green stuff, seen it on Youtube vids) but it's not available here?!
(I'll be using a spray gun, btw).
alt
Well-known member
Just catching up on this. Trying to find pics online of the paint but can't for the life of me!!
alt
Well-known member
Hi all,
So, i'm s till none the wiser as to what primer / paint to use. All I know is that I won't be sanding back to metal.
With regard to the sanding, I will use an orbital sander for the big areas, but can anyone recommend any tools for sanding the nooks and crannies? I have a dremel with a sanding attachment which may be useful, but i'm thinking above the cavitation plate etc. (the DP-G has what's like 2 cavitation plates, so won't get a sanding machine in between them).
Cheers
So, i'm s till none the wiser as to what primer / paint to use. All I know is that I won't be sanding back to metal.
With regard to the sanding, I will use an orbital sander for the big areas, but can anyone recommend any tools for sanding the nooks and crannies? I have a dremel with a sanding attachment which may be useful, but i'm thinking above the cavitation plate etc. (the DP-G has what's like 2 cavitation plates, so won't get a sanding machine in between them).
Cheers
rlw
Member
indeed would not take them back to bare metal. Many year ago I slapped some Silver Hammerite on a corroded spot just to get me through the season. Seemed to last better than all the expensive pro stuff I tried in later years.
alt
Well-known member
Thanks for the info.
There are 1 or 2 very small areas back to metal, hence my interest to do a total re-spray. I'm not sure should I be using different primer in these small sections??
Also, they (cosmetically) don't look great as they were previously anti-fouled. I just want to make them look nice (and protected) again but there's a mine of information out there!!
There are 1 or 2 very small areas back to metal, hence my interest to do a total re-spray. I'm not sure should I be using different primer in these small sections??
Also, they (cosmetically) don't look great as they were previously anti-fouled. I just want to make them look nice (and protected) again but there's a mine of information out there!!
russ
Active member
I have pondered whether Hammerite would be a good base for primer and then AF.
Has anyone else have experience with using Hammerite on outdrives?
Has anyone else have experience with using Hammerite on outdrives?
BruceK
Well-known member
Not outdrives but I have had very mixed results with Hammerite on aluminium and alloys. It worked well on some and literally fell off on others. It worked well on props and motorcycle crank covers but marine grade aluminium 5xxx and particularly 5021 it didn't etch at all. Once dried you could peel it off like it was a latex covering
Daibhheid1
New member
I used Hammerite etch primer on a friend's ancient Yamaha 20hp after he'd antifouled it and it was savaged by corrosion and growths. Carefully took it back to bare metal first. Didn't even last a season!
Comforting to know I'm not the only one to crash and burn!
alt
Well-known member
Are you saying the primer didn't stick!?
Daibhheid1
New member
Not well enough to the extent it had me convinced there was something electrolytic going on so ordered a new anode. However COVID19 meant it hasn't gone anywhere since.
So it is comforting to see that I'm not the only one who can't stick paint on an alloy leg.?
alt
Well-known member
Given that i'll be covering about 98% over paint and 2% over metal, what i'm thinking...
Once all prepped....
Lightly prime the metal parts with Acid 8 Etch Primer: U-POL Acid #8 Etch Primer | Halfords IE
Prime the whole lot with Cromadex 750 Primer: Cromadex 750 Two Pack Epoxy Primer.
Topcoat with Cromadex 700: Cromadex 700 | Carbon Paint Centre
My concern is that the primer (2 pack epoxy) states that it has Zinc Phosphate... is that bad on an out-drive (the word zinc!)
An alternative is Cromadex 903 which is an etch primer, but thinking that wouldn't be as good as i'm not priming over bare metal: Cromadex 903 Chromate-Free Self-Etch Primer.
Google seems to tell me that an epoxy primer is better over a range of surfaces ie. on a car you can prime over metal / paint / filler etc.
Any suggestions?
Once all prepped....
Lightly prime the metal parts with Acid 8 Etch Primer: U-POL Acid #8 Etch Primer | Halfords IE
Prime the whole lot with Cromadex 750 Primer: Cromadex 750 Two Pack Epoxy Primer.
Topcoat with Cromadex 700: Cromadex 700 | Carbon Paint Centre
My concern is that the primer (2 pack epoxy) states that it has Zinc Phosphate... is that bad on an out-drive (the word zinc!)
An alternative is Cromadex 903 which is an etch primer, but thinking that wouldn't be as good as i'm not priming over bare metal: Cromadex 903 Chromate-Free Self-Etch Primer.
Google seems to tell me that an epoxy primer is better over a range of surfaces ie. on a car you can prime over metal / paint / filler etc.
Any suggestions?
tico
Well-known member
I reckon that your suggested route is a goodun.
alt
Well-known member
tico - you have PM!
tico
Well-known member
Sorry, missed it - Replied
alt
Well-known member
As there was varying opinions and this is a bit of a "lets see how we get on", i'll create a little blog in the hope it helps others in future.
So, regarding the painting, the plan is:
1) Etch prime exposed metal with Acid 8 Etch Primer
2) 2Part Epoxy Primer (Cromadex 750)
3) TopCoat (Cromadec 700)
FYI, this boat has been on fresh water for the past 8 years and will be for as long as I own her, so no anti-foul. The benefit of fresh water really showed when the out-drives removed and you can look at all the bits on the transom shield etc... apart from a bit of slime (where I couldn't clean when out-drives on), all in very good order.
The etch primer is a rattle can and the primer / topcoat will be spray-gun.
Spent the last 2 days sanding and i'm almost there.... I knew this would be time consuming but christ, so many nooks and crannies.
I actually had to sand some bits with 120 and 240 to get rid of old anti-foul (no need for that, i'm on fresh water.... boat spend 1 year at sea before I purchased). I did my best to just give the old top-coat a good key, but you'll see on the top-end of the drives I ended up having to go back to the original primer (white) and in some bits (mainly on the lower-end) I had to go back to metal.... I'm going to say 10% of the out-drives are back to bare metal, which isin't too bad.
Here are the pics from today, many hours (inc. yesterday) washing, sanding, sanding and more sanding. Tomorrow i'll hopefully finish sanding by going over the lot with 1200 wet-dry.
Essentially this is a cosmetic job, however as there were 1 or 2 pieces of metal exposed (approx. the size of a 2 euro coin), i'm putting it down to protection as if it was purely for cosmetic reasons i'd never stop asking why i'm putting myself through the torture.
So, regarding the painting, the plan is:
1) Etch prime exposed metal with Acid 8 Etch Primer
2) 2Part Epoxy Primer (Cromadex 750)
3) TopCoat (Cromadec 700)
FYI, this boat has been on fresh water for the past 8 years and will be for as long as I own her, so no anti-foul. The benefit of fresh water really showed when the out-drives removed and you can look at all the bits on the transom shield etc... apart from a bit of slime (where I couldn't clean when out-drives on), all in very good order.
The etch primer is a rattle can and the primer / topcoat will be spray-gun.
Spent the last 2 days sanding and i'm almost there.... I knew this would be time consuming but christ, so many nooks and crannies.
I actually had to sand some bits with 120 and 240 to get rid of old anti-foul (no need for that, i'm on fresh water.... boat spend 1 year at sea before I purchased). I did my best to just give the old top-coat a good key, but you'll see on the top-end of the drives I ended up having to go back to the original primer (white) and in some bits (mainly on the lower-end) I had to go back to metal.... I'm going to say 10% of the out-drives are back to bare metal, which isin't too bad.
Here are the pics from today, many hours (inc. yesterday) washing, sanding, sanding and more sanding. Tomorrow i'll hopefully finish sanding by going over the lot with 1200 wet-dry.
Essentially this is a cosmetic job, however as there were 1 or 2 pieces of metal exposed (approx. the size of a 2 euro coin), i'm putting it down to protection as if it was purely for cosmetic reasons i'd never stop asking why i'm putting myself through the torture.
Megs20Burt!
Active member
Because you want to do a good job. I struggle to comprehend that somebody would spend a lot of money on a boat, put it into a hostile environment and then never look after it...strange???As there was varying opinions and this is a bit of a "lets see how we get on", i'll create a little blog in the hope it helps others in future.
So, regarding the painting, the plan is:
1) Etch prime exposed metal with Acid 8 Etch Primer
2) 2Part Epoxy Primer (Cromadex 750)
3) TopCoat (Cromadec 700)
FYI, this boat has been on fresh water for the past 8 years and will be for as long as I own her, so no anti-foul. The benefit of fresh water really showed when the out-drives removed and you can look at all the bits on the transom shield etc... apart from a bit of slime (where I couldn't clean when out-drives on), all in very good order.
The etch primer is a rattle can and the primer / topcoat will be spray-gun.
Spent the last 2 days sanding and i'm almost there.... I knew this would be time consuming but christ, so many nooks and crannies.
I actually had to sand some bits with 120 and 240 to get rid of old anti-foul (no need for that, i'm on fresh water.... boat spend 1 year at sea before I purchased). I did my best to just give the old top-coat a good key, but you'll see on the top-end of the drives I ended up having to go back to the original primer (white) and in some bits (mainly on the lower-end) I had to go back to metal.... I'm going to say 10% of the out-drives are back to bare metal, which isin't too bad.
Here are the pics from today, many hours (inc. yesterday) washing, sanding, sanding and more sanding. Tomorrow i'll hopefully finish sanding by going over the lot with 1200 wet-dry.
Essentially this is a cosmetic job, however as there were 1 or 2 pieces of metal exposed (approx. the size of a 2 euro coin), i'm putting it down to protection as if it was purely for cosmetic reasons i'd never stop asking why i'm putting myself through the torture.
?
alt
Well-known member
What?Because you want to do a good job. I struggle to comprehend that somebody would spend a lot of money on a boat, put it into a hostile environment and then never look after it...strange???
alt
Well-known member
The finished product below. You'll have to excuse the anti-foul... since I bought the boat almost 10 years ago, she's been on fresh water so she isin't getting anti-fouled. When the day comes that the water-line gets rough, i'll deal with it then. But for now, the waterline is fine so the fish will just have to live with the under-side not looking the tastiest.
Just to re-cap...
PREP: 2 days sanding. Orbital with 120 grit where possible, doing my best not to sand back to bare metal. Then a mixture of 120 / 240 by hand in the tight bits. Finally an 800 / 1200 wet-sand.
PAINT: 4 coats primer, Cromadex 750 2-pack. 3 coats top-coat, Cromadex 700. RAL 7036
Left for 3 weeks without touching to let the paint cure as best as possible. I think it's a good thing that from paint to hitting the water will be 4 months, allowing the paint more than enough time to cure.
I'm happy with the result. I know 2-pack can 'chip' easily, but is quite scratch resistant, which is what i'm aiming for. If I could do anything different, i'd probably have gone RAL 7035.
Just to re-cap...
PREP: 2 days sanding. Orbital with 120 grit where possible, doing my best not to sand back to bare metal. Then a mixture of 120 / 240 by hand in the tight bits. Finally an 800 / 1200 wet-sand.
PAINT: 4 coats primer, Cromadex 750 2-pack. 3 coats top-coat, Cromadex 700. RAL 7036
Left for 3 weeks without touching to let the paint cure as best as possible. I think it's a good thing that from paint to hitting the water will be 4 months, allowing the paint more than enough time to cure.
I'm happy with the result. I know 2-pack can 'chip' easily, but is quite scratch resistant, which is what i'm aiming for. If I could do anything different, i'd probably have gone RAL 7035.
Megs20Burt!
Active member
Great job, looks very good after all the hard work?The finished product below. You'll have to excuse the anti-foul... since I bought the boat almost 10 years ago, she's been on fresh water so she isin't getting anti-fouled. When the day comes that the water-line gets rough, i'll deal with it then. But for now, the waterline is fine so the fish will just have to live with the under-side not looking the tastiest.
Just to re-cap...
PREP: 2 days sanding. Orbital with 120 grit where possible, doing my best not to sand back to bare metal. Then a mixture of 120 / 240 by hand in the tight bits. Finally an 800 / 1200 wet-sand.
PAINT: 4 coats primer, Cromadex 750 2-pack. 3 coats top-coat, Cromadex 700. RAL 7036
Left for 3 weeks without touching to let the paint cure as best as possible. I think it's a good thing that from paint to hitting the water will be 4 months, allowing the paint more than enough time to cure.
I'm happy with the result. I know 2-pack can 'chip' easily, but is quite scratch resistant, which is what i'm aiming for. If I could do anything different, i'd probably have gone RAL 7035.