Paint for a carvel hull

[Mick Nash]

I have always used a traditional white paint such as blakes or Toplac on the hull with satisfactory results. This year, for the first time I have decided to use a professional painter to do the job. Against all advice I've had so far he is suggesting Awlgrip! Is it suitable for an unfaired carvel hull, kept in the Med?

 

[Seanick]

Its a very expensive paint for a boat you probably paint every year.
If the paint is free it would be an interesting experiment.

 

[Woodlouse]

He's a professional, of course he wants to use Awlgrip. He'll probably want to spray it too. And knowing the price of that stuff he's not going to absorb the costs of it himself.

If you don't like the idea tell him to use the paint you are happy with. Or get guarantees from him that his methods will last appreciably better to warrant the change.

Out of interest, what's the boat?

 

[Mick Nash]

Awlgrip

Escaper is a 44ft larch on oak cutter, built in Rantmausinde, Denmark in 1961Unfortunately she is iron fastened so causes me endless problems, mostly with the teak deck. Currently in Barcelona and likely to be painted in Toplac.

 

[chinita]

I have had Awlgrip sprayed on a steel hull. Eye wateringly expensive but excellent. Colour was blue and still uv faded in the Med after a couple of years.

On my wooden boat in UK I use Toplac Ivory, just a shade more subtle that white. Yacht Primer, Pre Kote, 50/50 pre Kote then two coats of 100% I like it.

 

[Keith 66]

44 ft Larch on oak, iron fastened, so she is likely a working boat, you could not possibly find a more unsuitable paint for her than Awlgrip. It will need epoxy primer undercoat & will be very hard, whatever you do you will never stop the planking expanding & contracting & the paint will crack up. Save your money & use Toplac or Dulux!

 

[stuhaynes]

Save your money & use Toplac or Dulux!

Time before last we were out (2007) we used Leyland Professional. I'm of the opinion that if you were to paint every season there would be no problem. We were in the water longer than that before coming out again, and it couldn't take it on 60 year old mahogany. This time we're trying Sikkens on a recommendation from a fellow boater. Must say that the finish is excellent, though (I guess) 6 times the price at least. Don't know what the performance is going to be like, I'll post again in May 2012 when she comes out again...

 

[Porthandbuoy]

I used Teamac on Mariposa. It's not as tough as Toplac or Awlgrip, but is flexible enough to 'work' with the wood. Have a look at the pics in the link! Two years on and she still looks good.

 

[Bobobolinsky]

Time before last we were out (2007) we used Leyland Professional. I'm of the opinion that if you were to paint every season there would be no problem. We were in the water longer than that before coming out again, and it couldn't take it on 60 year old mahogany. This time we're trying Sikkens on a recommendation from a fellow boater. Must say that the finish is excellent, though (I guess) 6 times the price at least. Don't know what the performance is going to be like, I'll post again in May 2012 when she comes out again...

I used Leyland Pro primer on a wooden doghouse roof last summer, unfortunately when I applied it it was too hot and I had to strip the lot as it didn't bond. Fortunately it came off easily with a scraper. I still like red oxide as a primer. I have used industrial xylene based based paint and it works well, primer £17 a five litre and top coat £23 a five litre. I have seen Awlgrip used on a cold moulded hull and it worked brilliantly. Years later it is sound though faded

 

[Woodlouse]

Just for the record I use Rylard paints. Again, no complaints at all on an old wooden hull and if it wasn't for rust streaks from old iron fastenings it would be good for several years.

 

[monkey_trousers]

my 2 pen'th

I talked to shepherd marine - http://shepherdmarine.com/

very helpful and weren't hell bent on selling me the most expensive which is always a good sign, fact is, the stuff I bought/used/am using is one of their cheaper paints

they recommended using vinyguard Primer and the Pioner topcoat. Like the way the solvent in the topcoat is designed to bite in to previous coats and bond with it. saves rubbing down before overcoating

have to say I've been very impressed with the stuff

 

[stuhaynes]

Just for the record I use Rylard paints. Again, no complaints at all on an old wooden hull and if it wasn't for rust streaks from old iron fastenings it would be good for several years.

Is it worth saying that 'proper' red lead is still available and an excellent sealing undercoat on iron? It's expensive because of the tax charged on it, but you won't need much. You can buy it from Traditional boat supplies in Suffolk. No connection, just a happy customer.

 

[Seanick]

Just for the record I use Rylard paints. Again, no complaints at all on an old wooden hull and if it wasn't for rust streaks from old iron fastenings it would be good for several years.

I have a method to cure rusty streaks from nails if your interested.

 

[Woodlouse]

I have a method to cure rusty streaks from nails if your interested.

It's Ok. She's been refastened in Bronze so any old remaining fastenings that still bleed rust can be dug out and removed entirely when refitting. In the mean time Starbrite Rust Stain remover does the trick.

I guess the solution for rusty nails is phosphoric acid once the galvanising has gone.

 

[Bosunof]

On my wooden carvel hull I use Toplac and then Epifanes lacquer. Three coats always does the job but the iron fastenings still get their glorious colour through after a year. But the coating is flexible and looks brilliant..... for a while. Easy to patch I have found after hitting just one jetty too many.

 

[Seagreen]

I have a method to cure rusty streaks from nails if your interested.

Very interested to hear that, myself.

 

[Scarboroughsloop]

Very interested to hear that, myself.

And me - but replace with bronze would be my best guess.....

 

[Seanick]

Cure for rusty topside streaks.

Here goes.
We did this to all the nails (about 2300) on Ocean Pearl, and have used it on other boats since. Out of that 2300 we have one weep on the topsides, thats it. We paint the topsides every other year.

Remove the paint for a few sq inches around each nail.
Remove the stopping or dowel from the ferrous fastening.
Chip the head of the nail hard with a small cold chisel and hammer.
Remove any soft timber around it with a small wire brush in a drill.
Allow to dry.
Apply slow epoxy with a small brush.
Warm gently with a hot hair gun to help penetration.
Add second coat of resin and warm again.
Leave untill just going off, then apply thickened epoxy filler (microlight) over the lot.
Sand fair when cured and apply four metallic primers,u/coat and gloss.

Of course if you have any deck leaks then the rust will be fed by water from above, and you will be pissing in the wind.

We did it with a team of four, one digging out, another chipping, and the other two working with the resin and heat. We actually used really out of date gellshied resin!

 

[oldharry]

Time before last we were out (2007) we used Leyland Professional. I'm of the opinion that if you were to paint every season there would be no problem. We were in the water longer than that before coming out again, and it couldn't take it on 60 year old mahogany. This time we're trying Sikkens on a recommendation from a fellow boater. Must say that the finish is excellent, though (I guess) 6 times the price at least. Don't know what the performance is going to be like, I'll post again in May 2012 when she comes out again...

Our local builders merchant stopped stocking Leyland paints because they had so many complaints. Went on very easily and nice finish, but came off again almost as quickly was the verdict!

They (and many others nowadays including boat owners, and me) swear by Dulux Weathershield Professional . NOT the cheapo Homebase muck, but as supplied to 'the Trade'.