P bracket bearing

tri39

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772
Location
Sussex
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I fitted a P bracket 24 yrs ago with 6 bolts and prob Sikaflex.
I've removed the 6bolts after emptying the rear cabin.
But the bracket won't move! There's limit to how much hammering
Underneath I can do on a foam sandwich hull.
Can't withdraw the shaft either cos the coupling plate bolted are rusted in!
Has anyone pushed out a bearing by hammering fwd with a box spanner.
Could then poss cut it off shaft. Any other ideas?
How much play of the shaft in the bearing is tolerable. The shaft moves at least a millimetre perhaps more, it's hard to measure!
I'm in an Italian boatyard too!
 
Hammering the bearing out is likely to loosen the bracket anyway, and isn't recommended. But I'd concentrate on getting the shaft out first because it's quite likely to be worn at the bearing area, and you might want to replace it. I don't know whether the 1 mm wear is significant, has is been like that for very long?
 
Hammering the bearing out is likely to loosen the bracket anyway, and isn't recommended. But I'd concentrate on getting the shaft out first because it's quite likely to be worn at the bearing area, and you might want to replace it. I don't know whether the 1 mm wear is significant, has is been like that for very long?
 
Running clearances depend on shaft size and bearing carrier size (we have a bearing machining calculator on our website you can use, enter shaft OD and carrier ID)

You should never hammer a P bracket, they bend and then the bearing carrier tube is unlikely to be in alignment with stern tube. If it's a Maritex bearing it may be on epoxy, so you should be able to heat the carrier to soften the epoxy and it will slide out. Still tricky with shaft in place though.

Heat is till probably the answer for softening the bedding, but check with manufacturers data.

I'd also do whatever was needed to get the shaft out and check it. If it's worn you can sometimes end for end it.

Good luck, sometimes luck is also needed :)
 
1) have you undone all the grub screws locking the bearing?

2) you can makea puller to get the bearing out. Split tube bearing diameter, to go one on the inboard end. Two lwnhth of studding and a plate againet the shaft to pull the bearing out.
 
Thanks for those two suggestions.
I'm pretty sure the wear is all on the old "rubber" bearing rather than on the shaft.
After all the boat's only been used for two months a year!
And obviously water fills the gap in use which must help.
Plan was to remove the P bracket so old bearing could be pressed out.
Just wish I hadn't used Sikaflex now! Some products are too good!!
Suspect I may have to do another year with this bearing, although I was going to spend next winter afloat rather than lifted out.
 
Thanks also Sailor211. I am about to go and find a tube or box spanner which will slide over the shaft. There's also the one remaining grub screw which seems to need an Imperial Allen key, needless to say all mine are metric!!

Thnks Neil too, I'll stop hammering the P bracket!!
 
Try using a large knife (bread knife) or hacksaw blade between the P-bracket and the hull to cut away some of the sikaflex. This will help to loosen the P-bracket from the hull.
 
Thnx Roger , I have been using a pallet knife but it doesn't want to go in very far.
Your idea of some hacksaw/fretsaw blade is good to.
The thing is I can now imagine the tool req'd to pull the bearing out in situ.
If only I could find one! It's even possible there's an Italian engineer here with such a thing, but the language barrier is considerable!!
I've diverted myself with other jobs while I think!!
 
If yours is anything like this and you can get the same clearance, then use a length of pipe cut down the middle, sit it on the shaft inboard side and use a big hammer. If you can bodge up a slide hammer arrangement all well and good. As stated make sure the grub screws are out before you start. As you can see one of our grubs had to be drilled out and retapped. Does not matter about the size you can even use a set screw.

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