Overheating KAD32

andy59

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How about draining both engines down and then refill , but , measure how much they take . If the faulty one takes less it must be an air lock somewhere .
 

david_bagshaw

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Hi FlowerPower

I'm with you on the concept, there is a breather out of the top of the turbo which feeds back air into the header tank, I have blown through this and appears clear. Paul

have you checked where the blead pipe connects, as the pipe might be clear but the connected to bit is not. gunge at top of the turbo has to be suspect.

disconnect and check flow into a bucket or the header tank using another pipe
 
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dingdongs

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100% chance the heads gonna have to come off and be pressure tested and you can do that yourself with a small number of tools, a manual and one of these;http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rothenberger-...DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ&hash=item4aabd592aa .this will be way beyond most general maintenance courses.but as the water side is being pressurized by either the injector sleeve a cracked head gasket or even a cracked head your not going to see much but if the reason of water going into a combustion chamber or an oil gallery the results could be a bent rod or a seized engine from rust.this saga will need someone with a fully equiped workshop and if at the seasons end luck is on your side it may be worth getting it booked in.
 

barney365

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Hi Dingdongs - thanks for your note - can I just check out with you some checks/observations I've made before starting on the test you have outlined.

I have run a leak detection test and that proved negative
I have run the same test with engine exhaust from a two stroke engine being fed into the air intake and the result remained negative
I have run a test by fitting a rubber glove on the filler and this only fills when I bring back the throttle. At full throttle the glove doesn't inflate.
The engine runs with no issues at full throttle.

I would have thought that one of these tests would show a different result if there was a head problem - especially at full revs.

With the above conditions would you still point the problem to the heads?

Again thank you for your points but just want to double check
 

Robert Fee

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Hi Barney365, did you ever get this overheating problem resolved?

I have a very similar problem and have tried everything you have mentioned including running brick acid through the engine for three hours. This improved thing enormously but the engine still overheats and pushes coolant out after about an hours running but only when under load. If I take it out of gear and increase the revs the temperature gauge almost instantly returns to normal.
 

Rob the boater

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Hi

I had over heat problems on older Volvo
Whet through all the coolers and pipework, boat out checked leg inlet with endescope etc etc

Ended up being the raw coolant pump bearing being slightly worn causing the raw water to not flowing effectively
 

Pietersail

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Hello Everyone, I have the exact same problem on my newly bought Sealine 34 from 2000 as well. Only I have it on the Port engine KAD32.

When I go full speed all is well. But when I use the compressor a couple of times and back down again its start to fill my bilge with coolant.

Also some weird stuff happened on my first journey:
On my first slow voyage I lost about 2.5 litres of coolant so a mechanic filled it up again.
Next voyage I opened it after when the engine was cold again and the level was at the top and started to spill when I opened the cap. I sucked out a bit of it to set the level perfect.
Next voyage the coolant was again in my bilge and tank was empty. I filled it with about 1.5 litres of water (I did not have any coolant).
I noticed the boiler and turned the red button in the boiler. At that moment I saw the water in the engine expansion tank drain away.


I am at a loss, please help
 

NGoll

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Hi, Sorry to bring back an thread. I am experiencing almost identical symptoms, did this issue get resolved?

What was found to be the issue? I am unsure what to do next.
 

FatherTed

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Check the turbo vent host. It runs from the turbo, into a T junction on the upper thermostat housing and then onto the header tank.
Remove the pipe from the header tank and check the header tank inlet is not blocked.

Use a cable tie or small drill bit to check it's not blocked.
 

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mkokko

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Hi! I just had a problem like this that was fixed by a Volvo Penta importer. The cause was in the cylinder head gasket between cylinders 2 and 3. After replacing the cylinder head gasket, the problem was gone. Oil was okay, the only problem was the high pressure in the cooling system as the boat accelerated.
 
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