Outdrive Bellows

[Greg2]

Fitted the drives today (Volvo DP D - essentially 290's but a slightly later model) and when clearing up I glanced at the instructions and found that the Uj bellows should be a certain way up i.e. marked 'top'. Having checked both are 90 degrees out...doh!!

Question is does it really matter? Having examined one there doesn't seem to be any moulding/shape etc that would make any difference to how they are put on so my best guess is that the shape of the coiled wire might be the issue as it is compressed on one side and stretched on the other when the drive is raised.

Question is should I move them round or will they be okay?

Worth saying that we rarely use the trim rams as the boat doesn't need it so it is only the occasional raising of the legs to check anodes etc.

 

[Pendana]

Question is does it really matter? Having examined one there doesn't seem to be any moulding/shape etc that would make any difference to how they are put on so my best guess is that the shape of the coiled wire might be the issue as it is compressed on one side and stretched on the other when the drive is raised.

Hi greg.

Good question. I've wondered why it needs to be with "TOP" at the 12 oclock position and like you concluded it must be something to do with winding of the wire and the extremes of movement of the drives.
If the boats not in the water yet can you not slacken both jubillee clips and turn the bellows. There is a raised "blip" on the first fold of the bellows as well as the "TOP" marking so you should be able to feel when the bellows are correctly orientated.

Eddie

 

[jparham]

On my DPEs the gearbox cable snags on the bellows if it is in the wrong position...
Will gradually wear through the rib on the bellows if you are a person that lifts and lowers the drive a lot
I usually start with the bellows with 'top' at the top, then move it around so the cable is not touching the ribs on the bellows.
That's the only reason I've found!

 

[Greg2]

On my DPEs the gearbox cable snags on the bellows if it is in the wrong position...
Will gradually wear through the rib on the bellows if you are a person that lifts and lowers the drive a lot
I usually start with the bellows with 'top' at the top, then move it around so the cable is not touching the ribs on the bellows.
That's the only reason I've found!

Interesting - not sure the gear cable is an issue on ours but I will check. I guess that means you don't have the bit marked 'top' actually at the top then?

 

[Greg2]

Hi greg.

Good question. I've wondered why it needs to be with "TOP" at the 12 oclock position and like you concluded it must be something to do with winding of the wire and the extremes of movement of the drives.
If the boats not in the water yet can you not slacken both jubillee clips and turn the bellows. There is a raised "blip" on the first fold of the bellows as well as the "TOP" marking so you should be able to feel when the bellows are correctly orientated.

Eddie

Eddie,
Yes, I have thought of doing that but these things being the work of the devil I have no doubt that it will not be easy. Guess I am looking to see if the easy way out i.e. just leaving them is likely to cause any problems.

 

[Pendana]

I think the only way of turning the bellows will be to undo and push back the steering helmet and release the bellows from the drive. That way you will be able get a hold of the bellows and turn it on its locating groove on the engine side. Bit of a carry on, but should only take about an hour to do both.

Eddie

 

[oldgit]

The Joy of Bellows.

"work of the devil".............

In my bellows there is a tiny hole in bottom of the exhaust to allow water to drain out when rubberware is correctly positioned.
From casual glance the hole will allow water to exit more easily when bellows are extended ...ie. up !

 

[jparham]

Interesting - not sure the gear cable is an issue on ours but I will check. I guess that means you don't have the bit marked 'top' actually at the top then?

Well, it starts at the top, but then I move it around a bit. From what I remember, the first large rib on the bellows (that fits onto the drive) has a part that just covers one of the steel internal stiffeners and a part that covers the stiffener that then forms the spiral down the bellows. You want it on just the former.

So, yes, 'top' may not end up right at the top, but that's where I start.
I do use pukka Penta parts for this important item.
But as I say, this is on DPE. Don't think it's different on yours.....

 

[jparham]

Hi OldGit,
You are talking about the exhaust bellows. We are talking about the UJ bellows.
Incidentally, I use cheaper non pukka Penta bellows for exhaust. No problem with the bellows, but the SS jubilee clips corroded through in 6 months.......so it fell off the engine connection with the trim up. Luckily trim on mine is optimum at -2, and I always leave it full in at -4/-5, so the bellows was held up against the outlet........no damage done.