Our Rocna Anchor experience

You can achieve the 'more rope, less chain' by using a long snubber. I use a 20m snubber which gives a nice 2m of spring in hectic conditions.

Some argue that chain only should be used to reduce 'sailing', and therefore the snatch loads (the idea is that the chain dragging along the bottom damps the oscillation). My experience has been that chain alone solution postpones the wind speed at which 'sailing' sets in, but once it starts, the snatching at the 'tack' is still fierce, so there's still a call for a good length of snubber.

My boat, though, does sail pretty wildly once the wind gets above 25kts. Others (long keelers especially) are much more kindly.
 
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My understanding is that, in Europe, you can get one from Eire, Holland or New Zealand

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The EU has been expanding a lot recently but...
 
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My understanding is that, in Europe, you can get one from Eire, Holland or New Zealand

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The EU has been expanding a lot recently but...

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You know what I meant... but for the pedants out there:

"If you are" in Europe, you can get one from Eire, Holland or New Zealand

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Jim - the problem I have with a snubber is that the cleats on the foredeck - set at each edge, give a very bad lead to the bow roller, so causing chafe a soon as any real pressure comes on it. It would have been ideal for a cleat to be placed centrally in front of the anchor winch.

I had thought about having another line attached from the opposite cleat - attached with a rollong hith to the snubber - would work, allowing for a straight lead over the bow roller.

Any suggestions? It that how most people do it given the absence of central cleats from lost of boats?
 
How about a prepared set up, with a chain hook in the middle of a length of snubber line, and with a large loop spliced in each end? Loops over the cleats, chain hook onto the chain, then let out enough chain so that the snubber lines take the strain.
 
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I had thought about having another line attached from the opposite cleat - attached with a rollong hith to the snubber - would work, allowing for a straight lead over the bow roller.

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havent had to do it with the anchor yet, but that's how I do it if i pick a buoy up and the buoys line/loop isnt long enough to reach the cleats. A line from each cleat to the loop so it sits nicely in the middle.

For the anchor I would probably create a loop, (bowline), which sits around the cleats then its' working end becomes the snubber with a rolling hitch around the chain and so on.
 
>>How about a prepared set up, with a chain hook in the middle of a length of snubber line, and with a large loop spliced in each end? Loops over the cleats, chain hook onto the chain, then let out enough chain so that the snubber lines take the strain.<<

That is the answer - I will make it up tomorrow!

As this will in effect be a bridle from the cleat on each side and not passing through the bow roller, I will need to have some anti chafe where it goes over the edge of the deck, so perhaps some clear poly pipe. So will need to have some 30 mtr of 16mm 3 strand - or is this too much?
 
That is a very comprehensive article on anchoring Richard!
Very interesting on scopes and rodes. I'd deduced myself that the scope needed to be
increased in shallow anchorages. Reassuring that scope reduces in deeper anchorages but we still avoid them. Does make sense that the vertical part of the chain is not contributing much more than textile would.
He does recommend chain/rope splicing but i'd still like to see some "destruction" figures!
 
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That is a very comprehensive article on anchoring Richard!


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Thanks are due to Craig rather than me.

I dont pretend to have examined all of the maths and physics involved, but it seems to make sense.
 
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I will need to have some anti chafe where it goes over the edge of the deck, so perhaps some clear poly pipe

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Good thread! Here's my tuppence worth....

Clear, reinforced polypipe is all very well, but it's not 'cheap and cheerful' and it doesn't last long when it needs to take abrasion under load, in high winds. Here are some effective alternatives....

Reinforced radiator hose from a scrapped truck engine. The 'concertina' type works best. Grime washes off.....

Time-expired fire hose - different diameters. Even the roll-flat type is as tough as old boots, and usually free.

Ensure each end has a pre-fitted cord, to secure it in place.

Powerful snubbers can be made up by winding your nylon snubber line several times around a small, used car or aircraft tyre, after the style of the expensive chandlers' 'Rubba-Snubba'.

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Thanks for that. One sits there trying to contemplate the circumstances of which I have had no experience. I think I have been blessed in my life of Anchoring not to have had any extremes of weather.
 
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Is Ross McDougal Craig Rocna in disguise, anyone? Call me suspicious.....

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I'll call you suspicious, and ask what makes you suspicious - I cant see it?
 
When my old Delta wouldn't hold at full reverse after a couple of attempts I would let it sit for about half-an-hour and then reverse on it. It seemed that the gentle tugs from the boat over a longer period allowed the anchor to settle and dig in. Full reverse proved it set and would hold.

I haven't needed to try this with my Rocna.
 
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He does recommend chain/rope splicing but i'd still like to see some "destruction" figures!

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He's recommending it after seeing me make 1000's over the last decade without dramas. Done correctly and assuming the right rope/chain match is used the strength loss is under 15% of the ropes break load just like any other spliced rope on your boat.

Yes we have destructed many, work and test lots with a big winch manufacturer and had feedback from 100's of our custies.

Note the 'Done correctly'.
 
August a sailing month ? A good question.
In August most wind seems to be the sea breezes, onshore in daylight, weak offshore at night/ early morning so a day sail finds you motoring back in the evening.
I often see charter boats picked up from Kastel/Split motor all the way over to the island in summer. Some charter boats can motor very fast (compared with my Yanmar ! GM10).
The really good sailing months seem to be March, April and November.
Winds in Croatia, 50% of the time there is not enough, 30% is good and the other 20% is far too much (the NE 'Bura ' ).
As for anchors the shops sell rubbish, you have to bring everything from the UK. The locals use 3 strand polyester for attaching to chain, don't seem to get nylon octoplait. I do see a lot of wide fluke fisherman style on older boats.
 
This is a great thread.

We have used our ROCNA from Spain to Cyprus and all points between. We have found that we need a minimum of 4-1 scope but often use 5-1 or even 6-1. We are a catamaran and always use a bridle. The only time we dragged was in very soft sand in two meter depth and once in very thick weed. We now try not to set the anchor ever in WEED.

Like others we tend to gently reverse whilst playing out the CHAIN to the required scope. Then let her sit for a while. Then when settled we slowly increase revs up to 2000 RPM's.

Peter
 
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