Ouboard flush muffs

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RobBrown

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Can you use them on a Mariner 2.5 2st?

Usually run in a tank @ lay up & after over-winter, but once on boat not v.practical on home berth. Thought of using those muffs you can get, to encourage me to flush the O/b during the season after use . Googling seemed to imply single ones OK for 2st & 4 st o/bs of 4 hp+ or so, but can't find any spp refs to smaller engines & Mariner in particular.

Supplementary. If suitable, how exactly are they used?!
 
They are spring loaded rubber cups that look like ear muffs. They have an inlet on one side to which you conect a garden hose. On larger outboards and stern drives the water intakes are either side of the leg. If you can find your water intake and can ensure that the muffs will fit over them ok then they will work fine but I doubt on such a small engine they will work. I have a pair but they are no use on my 3.5hp johnson.
 
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RobBrown said:
Can you use them on a Mariner 2.5 2st?

Usually run in a tank @ lay up & after over-winter, but once on boat not v.practical on home berth. Thought of using those muffs you can get, to encourage me to flush the O/b during the season after use . Googling seemed to imply single ones OK for 2st & 4 st o/bs of 4 hp+ or so, but can't find any spp refs to smaller engines & Mariner in particular.

Supplementary. If suitable, how exactly are they used?!
Click to expand...

You can only use "muffs" with outboards which have the water intakes on the sides of the gearcase

They clamp on the gearcase like a pair of ear muffs. The water intake must obviously be covered by them and they must make a reasonably water tight water tight seal... or all the water will escape!
 
You may find it easier to run it in a bucket or a wheelie bin. The smaller outboards don't all tend to have water intakes on the side.
 
Muffs are Not Suitable.......

......for small Yamaha/Mariner 2 strokes....the configuration of the water inlet is all wrong....

Solution.....Remove propellor and drive pin......stand engine in a large bucket of fresh water...and start and run it SLOWLY for a minute or so....That gets rid of alot of the salty crud.....and your motor is ready to store...(on that count anyway)
 
NOHOH said:
......for small Yamaha/Mariner 2 strokes....the configuration of the water inlet is all wrong....

Solution.....Remove propellor and drive pin......stand engine in a large bucket of fresh water...and start and run it SLOWLY for a minute or so....That gets rid of alot of the salty crud.....and your motor is ready to store...(on that count anyway)
Click to expand...

Why take the prop off? No need to run under load to flush. I hand hold my 3.2 mariner in a bucket of fresh water to flush. A few minutes at just over tick over, switch off the fuel and let it die.
 
Hadenough said:
Why take the prop off? No need to run under load to flush. I hand hold my 3.2 mariner in a bucket of fresh water to flush. A few minutes at just over tick over, switch off the fuel and let it die.
Click to expand...

I think you will find that the 2.5 has a fixed drive ... no clutch... therefore take the prop off if using a small bucket / bin or all the water gets thrown out.


BTW there are some snags to using wheelie bins. I use an old plastic water tank

DSCF0419.jpg


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DSCF0414.jpg
 
VicS said:
take the prop off if using a small bucket / bin or all the water gets thrown out.
Click to expand...

+1

A standard plastic dustbin (not wheely-bin) is big enough to keep the water inside with the prop running, but anything smaller and it will all be flung out everywhere.

In a fit of enthusiasm last summer I bought a bin for the purpose, built a wooden frame around it, and installed it in the corner of the patio. Of course from that day to this I haven't had any need for the engine :(

Pete
 
VicS said:
I think you will find that the 2.5 has a fixed drive ... no clutch... therefore take the prop off if using a small bucket / bin or all the water gets thrown out.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, plink the penny has just dropped! That makes a lot of sense, didn't realise it was direct drive.
 
Thanks guys. Yes the 2.5M has no clutch. I've checked in the Service Manual (see earlier post re a link to that online, where I downloaded a .pdf copy) &the water intake is right behind the prop so I cansee why Muffs unlikely to seal. I do use the wheelie bin method at home but don't have one onboard! Wanted easy way to do on the mooring, rather than take the old gal ashore or home, which is a bit of a fag for regular flushing,which is why currently it doesn't get done!

Looks like trying the biggest bucket on the boat, perhaps with the prop off, but this more fag:-).
 
Muffs need to be connected to a hose and a good supply of fresh water. Ok in a marina I guess but not out on a mooring unless you carry a really good water supply.

My main outboard, 'rude in picture above, is only flushed once per year ... when I take it home at the end of the season. Too heavy to remove from the boat other than when ashore, or alongside. Normally lives on the transom bracket so at least is vertical and drains properly.
 
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RobBrown said:
Thanks guys. Yes the 2.5M has no clutch. I've checked in the Service Manual (see earlier post re a link to that online, where I downloaded a .pdf copy) &the water intake is right behind the prop so I cansee why Muffs unlikely to seal. I do use the wheelie bin method at home but don't have one onboard! Wanted easy way to do on the mooring, rather than take the old gal ashore or home, which is a bit of a fag for regular flushing,which is why currently it doesn't get done!

Looks like trying the biggest bucket on the boat, perhaps with the prop off, but this more fag:-).
Click to expand...

Don't need to take the prop off, just use a big bucket with its edges connected by a line and rig the line over the top of the engine. Used to do it with our 7.5 Mercury and our 1.2 HP Johnson no clutch with the engines on the pulpit bracket.

Also used to keep running water from the hose into the bucket.
 
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