Osmosis treatment - long- term experiance on Westerly

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guja

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I would like to buy a Westerly Conway. All the boats I found had an osmosis treatment. Gelcoat off - epoxy coats on. How long will that last? I am afraid to have that job to be done a few years later. The yards, offering that type of treatment usuaslly guaranty for three years.

In the homepage of the Westerly Club Nederland I found the following:

A few years ago the Waterkampioen (the Dutch version of the PBO and YM) bought a Contest 33 with normal osmosis and have had it repaired. Every supplier (International, Sikkens etc) did a part of the boat.

The boat was dry when they brushed on the epoxy. After 1 year the boat was as wet as it had been when they bougth the Contest. The only part that was still dry was the part that was relaminated.

Do all the older Westerlys have that severe osmosis problem? Does that mean either you accept to have a Westerly and osmosis or you have to look for an other boat???
All experiances of sailors ridden by that osmosis problem will be appreciated
 
My Halcyon was epoxy treated in 1988 and a recent survey showed the treatment to be in excellent condition, with low hull moisture levels. You need a good surveyor, and be guided by what he says about the condition of the hull in general and the integrity of the epoxy coating. Some boats may need re-coating at some point, many others not. Mostly it depends on how well the hull was prepared and whether coated under controlled conditions.
 
I had a Westerly Pentland built in 1979. When the previous owners purchased the boat in 1985 with the boat 6 years old it had relatively bad wicking type Osmosis. The hull was blasted and coated with an early version of Gelshield which failed after 1 year. A full refund was obtained from the suppliers and the hull peeled and re-coated with VC tar. Six years later I purchased the boat and the survey indicated a very dry hull, a further six years later I sold the boat and the hull passed survey yet again giving a life of at least 12 years.
 
Hi
there seems to be a difference between osmosis and wicking. I bought a Gib Sea 84 last year, the survey recommended a peel and epoxy job, the boat was hauled out last October into a local boat yard to have the job done, first inspection showed quite a few small fingernail sized blisters. these were all flat drilled to the depth of the matt coat which appeared sound confirming that the laminates were in good order. after a month the readings were more than satisfactory. It was then explained to me that osmosis is a break up of the laminates wicking is moisture retention between the gel and matt coats.
Hoping they are right KW
 
i had the same results with wicking, surveyor took readings when the boat came out of the water, and then before i epoxied, and the hull was reading v. low all over after the winter ashore
 
I have a 25 year old Westerly Konsort. When I bought it 19 years ago it got a clean bill of health and so I stripped the old antifouling and gave it 5 coats of VC Tar. No sign of any blistering.
Derek
 
I have slight blistering above the waterline on my Invicta on both port & starboard sides in way of the legs. It was caused by the wooden legs having a sponge pad which trapped water when laid up. As I reckon the exterior will need a coat of gloss paint next winter (weather permitting) I have gone afloat this year without bothering. After all, it is above the waterline (except when close hauled).

The boat now has alloy yacht legs with pads that do not absorb water.
 
Going back to numerous threads:

Has a boat ever sunk due to osmosis?

Does it matter unless you still have a high residual value and want to sell it on?

If you're paying more than 5 grand, don't buy a boat with osmosis.
 
From articles I've read and boats I've seen, its purely cosmetic in 99% of cases, have you ever heard of fishing boats being treated? or sinking from osmosis? there are quite a few 1970's grp fishing boats that spend all their time in the water.....so why are they never treated. (someone will now tell me they are)
Its because leisure boat owners like to have shiny boats and the little bumps show up too easily on clean shiny boats.
Just maybe its been pushed as a way to de-value a boat your looking at when you find a few bumps?
 
Whilst I don't disagree with what you are saying, clearly anyone is going to choose a boat with no blisters if the choice is there and want to pay less for one with. I would. But being at the very bottom end of the boat buying ladder I have a boat with blisters and don't worry about it at all. A 30yr old 16' cruiser is not worth anything much so I just sail her knowing the only time anyone can see the problem is when she's out of the water and even then you wuld have to be looking for it. I wouldn't have bought her if the blisters had been large and flaking.
 
Absolutely. I've an old 18 foot cruiser with a few blebs, but I just antifoul her and stick her back in. If a keel falls off I'll let you all be the first to know.

The cost of repairs, let alone the time involved, makes it a no-no when you consider the boat's value.
 
Like many manufacturers, Westerly built good boats and bad ones. I bought mine (a good one) while it was in the water and was lucky, with no blistering except on the rudder. I have seen dramatic blistering on others.

Regarding treatment, mine had been dried out on the hard in 1995, wet & dry sanded to key it and two coats of VC tar epoxy painted on. It has been free of blisters ever since. I did give it another coat of VC tar in 2002 when I had removed all the build-up of antifouling, which was a fairly easy job.
 
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