Organising a busy boom

[scozzy]

Hi all

So..Ill try and be brief as possible!

Have converted current set up from roller boom furling to loose footed ,slab with single line reefing back to cockpit for No1&2 with no3 mousing back and piggybacking on no2..works well however I've got lots of lines everywhere which is mostly...tucked away nicely via loops added to stackpack....anyway I'm wondering if anyone has advice on:

A.likelyhood of boom being hollow

B.Anyone done a conversion?
Was it worth the faff of adding sheaves etc to tidy up boom while underway or reefing in a blow?

Boat is Halcyon 23 with original boom with slot for sail boltrope which makes me wonder if anything else in there to stop me running lines through it and thus clearing cockpit when things are getting "exciting " and I need no3....

Cheers in advance

 

[wrr]

I must admit that the conversions which I have done from roller reefing have all involved wooden booms. If yours is alloy, it will be hollow but if wooden, it is likely to be solid for a boat of that size. To run lines through a hollow boom, you will need sheaves at the clew end and low friction outlets at the tack. Alternatively, you could add an external reefing combs with bee blocks for each reefing line, going to either turning blocks or a winch at the mast. Either way, don't underestimate the potential for friction and the loads on reefing lines, I once exploded a ball-bearing block in a blow off the Pointe de Barfleur!
The end result should be lines that allow for reefing without tangles or lines jamming, this is particularly important for the safety of a yacht in a blow.

 

[scozzy]

I must admit that the conversions which I have done from roller reefing have all involved wooden booms. If yours is alloy, it will be hollow but if wooden, it is likely to be solid for a boat of that size. To run lines through a hollow boom, you will need sheaves at the clew end and low friction outlets at the tack. Alternatively, you could add an external reefing combs with bee blocks for each reefing line, going to either turning blocks or a winch at the mast. Either way, don't underestimate the potential for friction and the loads on reefing lines, I once exploded a ball-bearing block in a blow off the Pointe de Barfleur!
The end result should be lines that allow for reefing without tangles or lines jamming, this is particularly important for the safety of a yacht in a blow.

Cheers for fredback,aluminium boom,good points about friction, my main concern is opening up boom to find its not exactly hollow so it's all for nothing! Current system is fine albeit it's not a massive boat and like all of us I could do without the clutter when things are getting interesting...

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Your boom will certainly be hollow but due to its size and shape ( round) I very much doubt that you will find either aft end or gooseneck fittings that will take sheaves. You certainly won't be able to convert to single line reefing.

 

[scozzy]

Your boom will certainly be hollow but due to its size and shape ( round) I very much doubt that you will find either aft end or gooseneck fittings that will take sheaves. You certainly won't be able to convert to single line reefing.

Some excellent points thanks there is a flat section in the right spot close to gooseneck that I'm sure could take a double sheave although tight,but the aft end is as you suggest...tricky to find and probably a killer for this idea,cheers

 

[Cerebus]

It will be a lot of work to fit lines in the boom.

But I have sailed a tiny 22 footer that had single line reefing but all lines lead outside and along the boom.

All lines leading aft is simply blissful after learning to sail in boats that were not set up so.

 

[Stemar]

Trying to run the lines inside the boom will be a major faff, and involve some serious machining of the boom ends, plus enough engineering knowledge to be sure you don't weaken the gooseneck end too much.

On my Snapdragon, I fitted small cheek blocks to the boom where the reefing lines came down from the leach cringle, and decent ball bearing blocks at the gooseneck and the mast foot - well worth the extra money to reduce friction. I also added a bit of bungee cord under the mast in a couple of places to keep the lines from sagging. That all worked, but I later added blocks at the luff cringles to reduce friction even further, and a light line from the head of the sail as a downhaul, which guaranteed it would come down all the way, and stay down.

 

[[194497]]

On a previous boat I had reef 1 set up to do at the mast, running down the starboard side of the boom, and reefs 2 and 3 led back to the cockpit, 2 being on port and 3 on starboard. It was just how that boat had been set up but I kept it and liked it - less clutter and you only go to the mast in less urgent circumstances. Setting up reef 1 as single line would have created a lot more tangles at the luff end.
But ultimately not as user friendly as all single line ...

 

[scozzy]

Thanks all for confirming my doubts...my current single line system works fine ,need to do other more pressing jobs rather than create another!! Cheers