To make a really good job of polishing a dull, chalked or faded grp hull what you need is a closed cell foam compounding mop and a medium grade polishing (cutting) compound for grp. Maybe a fine grade if it is not too bad. The mop runs at a lowish speed and you keep it wet. Farecla do the polising compounds and the mops and so do 3M. You can Google for them. There are other makes as well of course. Screwfix stock mops and some of the Farecla compounds but note there are different grades of mop for the different grades of compound. Really you need a polishing machine, rotary not orbital, of the type used by car body refinishers (Car paint stockists are another source of the compounds and mops.) These machines tend to be a bit pricey but I think Screwfix do one at a reasonable price or your could hire one. I use an old two speed electric drill running on its slow speed but I had to make an adapter to fit the mop. (Note that angle grinders are too fast.)
You can finish off with a wax polish applied by hand and buffed up with almost any lambs wool polisher, except for the cheapest 12v ones perhaps.
The topic is a regular one on this forum so try searching for what has been said several times before. Farecla is always mentioned so putting that in the search should find it all. Go back as many years as the search function will allow.
It is hard work but the results can be quite stunning. I restored a dull pink hull to a bright shiny red. The transformation was so great that some people though it had been spray painted!
If you do just want to jazz up one that has lost its shine then a silicone free wax polish and any polisher will do but I think a rotary one will be better than an orbital one. However, I think you may be disappointed with the results, at least after a few weeks.
One key issue is their weight - get the lightest you can (they usually cost more), holding a cheap heavy on against a hull for long periods can be somewhat trying on the arms.
If so, swing your boom / spin pole out, tie it off with loose bungy cord , lash a small block to it , tie the polisher to a cord through the block to a counterweight (less in weight than the polisher) and you will save a lot of arm/shoulder ache.........
and be carefull not to let the edge of the disc catch the surface. Not such a problem as on cars with their compound curves, but it leaves a nasty burn/gouge.
Well has this been a worth while posting or what!!!!
I was planning on buying an orbital, but not anymore.
Thanks very much everybody for all your help and advice.
Excellent. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
...I was put off rotary polishers when I saw a grown man cry at the sight of all the swirls on the topsides of his Moody 46 in Port Hamble car park. In daylight the boat looked clean but under the revealing glare of the sodium lamps at night all was revealed.
Orbital is best IMO. But you need one with a decent motor.
I bought two, one a "Cosmo" rechargeable which works surprisingly well. The other, bought from an eBay advertising jerk called Bid-a Tool who disappeared like the snow in May when it burst into flames on first using was branded "Kinzo" - it got replaced by one I bought in Corfu. They work very well, using one for the cutting operation and the other for the polish.
I will replace the Corfu one though as it's 80 watt motor makes the job a little slow, with the 240v one from Halfords
For a comparison test on polishers, where the Cosmo and the Halford's were "Best on Test" see AutoExpress test
[ QUOTE ]
but under the revealing glare of the sodium lamps at night all was revealed.
[/ QUOTE ] Not many people anchor in carparks with sodium lighting! Even fewer go round at night looking for swirl maks on other peoples boats. What it looks like in daylight is what counts!
If you get swirl marks there must have been grit or other contamination on the compounding sponge. All traces of dirt and grit must be washed off the hull before you start. If the correct grades of paste are used you will get a good finish without swirls.
BAlancing on a ladder with what is effectively a slowish speed angle grinder in contact with a very soft medium, digging the edge in is all too common.
I'll stick with a random orbital, thanks. A bit slower but I've always tried to avoid "The Lazy Man's load" as my mother used to call it. This is the first boat I've used ANY mechanical device on. Previously I cut the surface entirely by hand but gave up when we sold the 30 footer. This one at 44 ft is just too big.
However, take a look at her decks. She was polished in April and this was taken in November. i think you'll agree that she shines up well for a five year old.
Surely not that old chestnut about "Not being able to repaint/
Who the [--word removed--] (but we all know what the word was that was removed, don't we?) repaints these days? & anyway, a proper preparation regieme will get rid of any residual silicone.