Open dry seams

[fisherman]

I am refurbing a fifteen foot Fal oyster punt, rowing boat basically. new stem fitted, new frames almost all through, and a couple of short planks. It has dried completely and some seams are open to the tune of 6-7mm. Primer applied. In the olden days we would have thrown it into the river for a few days to staunch, then let the surface dry and paint it. However, what about sikaflex (221) or 3M products (5200) for a quick fix? Or should I bow to tradition and use red lead putty, I have red lead powder, and, if so, before or after staunching? The boat will not be kept afloat. I am not a slave to tradition, some of the frames are plastic. At the moment I am inclined to drape some old carpet over the upturned hull to wet it for a few weeks.
My feeling is that if it spends most of its life dry it needs to be sound in the dry-ish condition.

 

[jamie N]

I'd go for any of the better known brands of sealant. 6-7mm is a fairly large gap!

 

[Sniper]

Is it clinker or carvel?

 

[fisherman]

Carvel

 

[Sniper]

I'd agree with Jamie then, especially as you intend to take the boat out of the water fairly frequently. CT-1 is becoming quite popular as it is versatile and quite forgiving - also reasonably priced in comparison to some others. I've used it extensively under water and it dries to a reasonably soft and flexible consistency which is what you need.

 

[fisherman]

Thanks, I'll have a look at that. It will be put in the water infrequently, there is loose talk of racing it, randan. (pair oars, pair paddles)

 

[zoidberg]

It will be put in the water infrequently, there is loose talk of racing it, randan. (pair oars, pair paddles)

This I must see! Where, when....? Which pub?

I s'pose gig racing's got too serious.....

 

[fisherman]

randan is all we used to do before we got delusions of adequacy and went into gigs

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=r...hXBLcAKHSI6Cg8Q9QEINjAB#imgrc=oktGpjMaaMC-NM:

 

[PotatoNavigator]

I'd be careful of using Sika/CT1/SLS if the planking is relatively thin since once set it can't move much and the planks might cup. The other problem is it probably won't stick to the joint very well unless it is cleaned thoroughly.

This is something I've been looking into a lot lately since I have a double diag boat with open seams (copper bottom means the top sides don't get very wet and the calico layer has long since perished).

I've been experimenting with this with reasonable results, I'd be grateful for any better ideas from someone more knowledgeable about it though.

 

[fisherman]

I'd be careful of using Sika/CT1/SLS if the planking is relatively thin since once set it can't move much and the planks might cup. The other problem is it probably won't stick to the joint very well unless it is cleaned thoroughly.

This is something I've been looking into a lot lately since I have a double diag boat with open seams (copper bottom means the top sides don't get very wet and the calico layer has long since perished).

I've been experimenting with this with reasonable results, I'd be grateful for any better ideas from someone more knowledgeable about it though.

Is there a link missing? ( what you been experimenting with)

This is my problem: is it in its likely future condition now, or will that be slightly wet, kept outside but not afloat.

I have done the garboards this minute, after caulking, with red lead putty. Planks are 20mm. CT1 claims to be a universal cure -all, but as you say, what about compression when she gets wet. Red lead won't be any better. I'm inclined towards getting it a bit wet to establish the likely future situation before sealing. Interlux seam compound is a polyurethane sealant, but maybe not available here, about the same as Sika 221 which is permanently flexible . I also have epoxy with microfibres, which will obs be rigid and is going over rivet and screw heads. 'sabugrinnit?

 

[PotatoNavigator]

Yes the link went missing:
http://www.affixit.co.uk/Expanding-...4zBRDLPv2oZMX8P7hLJB28_Sca-uojNcaAiuZEALw_wcB

There's other places that do it, it comes compressed but expands out to fill the void, as long as it's kept below about 50% max expansion it keeps water out although I'm not sure what would happen below the waterline.
You're right, I don't think interlux seam compound is available here, but since its a polyurethane I doubt it's much different to CT1.

AFAIK epoxy in the seams is a bad idea unless the planks are totally encapsulated to eliminate take up.

Edit: Found the link, it's in the word 'this', I thought I'd missed it since I was looking at the wrong 'this'!

 

[fisherman]

So epoxy soaks into wood, yes? Think I’ll test sika and ct1to see which seems less compressible/more flexible, before use, and while the boat picks up some moisture.

 

[jamie N]

The jointing tape looks a novel way of going for a solution where the gap is fairly variable; large % of expansion & contraction. On my carvel boat though, I don't have that, and have had good success with 'stuff' like Sika etc. ; and need it to do it's magic soon at crane in, once again! :encouragement:

 

[burgundyben]

Isn't the root of the issue here that the boat was designed and built to live in the water with the planks always wet and swollen.

surely the best thing would be to keep the boat afloat?

 

[Keith 66]

^^^^^ This, Its an old wooden boat, it is meant to live in the water, Carvel boats rely on the caulking to keep them stiff, & will tend to flex more if just garmed up with goop. Epoxy does not soak in much despite what all the blurb will tell you, it is a surface coating. I have seen more good boats ruined by epoxy or fibreglassing than i can shake a stick at.
If the boat old & it is intended just to keep her going for a few more years just shoot the seams full of Sikaflex or Polysulphide & use it. Just dont expect it to be a long term fix.

 

[fisherman]

Thanks all, I'm leaning towards getting it as wet as poss and see where we are then. There was no caulking in the seams but a little red lead putty.