Older boats what to look for

So a further word from the shaft side of life ...

For fear of annoying Jed, your budget sits right in the bracket for a decent Corvette 32, but not quite a Corvette 320. As an ex-raggie with just a few wind propelled miles under my keels, mostly on the wind, ideal for a raggie converting to the 'Darkside'. Your SWMBO will love the ensuite aft cabin, with standing headroom and access both sides of the bed.

It is a full planing, semi displacement, displacement hull, with full walk around decks, superb sea handling and an excellent reputation (and no I'm not selling mine !), with improving residuals. This is the best boat for any boaty dog owner I have ever been on.

Please take a look at our website (below), and PM me or send an email to the website (same destination) and I will be happy to help, as will our 60 or so other satisfied owner members.

Your budget will also get your into a decent Solent Sierra, AKA Fairline Turbo 36, my last boat. I loved my Turbo, but I still love my Corvette more, sorry Fairline.
 
I like your optimism but I'm not that good at bargaining. Any comment on things like jeanneau 925 flybridge or benny 9.80 flybridge both with shaft and also within budget?

I paid just £4K more than your top budget for a 2003 Prestige 32 last October from a dealer. I had been looking at 1997 Sealine statesman 360's, but they all needed too much work and were too much money for the age in my opinion. So we went for a slightly smaller, but newer boat. Having had more than enough expense with out drives, I would only buy a boat with shafts now and the Prestige, together with patio doors to keep out the elements fits the bill for us.
 
One thing to look for is the reinforced rubber exhaust hose which after leaving the engine goes to the skin fitting exhaust outlet. I bought a boat which was 15 years old and the exhaust hose was the original and did not leak. But my first trip after I bought the boat the hose started leaking, into the boat.
The hose was completely perished inside. The metal coil within the hose had over the years become rusty, eventually snapping and thus poking through the hose.
As this hose would have been a standard hose used throughout the boating industry I wonder how many boat owners have a similar exhaust hose and never check it.
Mind you I can understand how the exhaust had not been checked. You could not see the perished end where it joined the exhaust skin fitting, and to replace it the fuel tank had to come out, but to get it out it involved cutting a big chunk out of the the fibreglass bulkhead and removing the diesel tank. Fortunately I am familiar with fibreglass repair. Had I had a boatyard do it it would have cost a fortune.
 
One thing to look for is the reinforced rubber exhaust hose which after leaving the engine goes to the skin fitting exhaust outlet. I bought a boat which was 15 years old and the exhaust hose was the original and did not leak. But my first trip after I bought the boat the hose started leaking, into the boat.
The hose was completely perished inside. The metal coil within the hose had over the years become rusty, eventually snapping and thus poking through the hose.
As this hose would have been a standard hose used throughout the boating industry I wonder how many boat owners have a similar exhaust hose and never check it.
Mind you I can understand how the exhaust had not been checked. You could not see the perished end where it joined the exhaust skin fitting, and to replace it the fuel tank had to come out, but to get it out it involved cutting a big chunk out of the the fibreglass bulkhead and removing the diesel tank. Fortunately I am familiar with fibreglass repair. Had I had a boatyard do it it would have cost a fortune.

My surveyor picked up on that on my Prestige 32 and the dealer replaced both hoses right up to the bulkhead, which did indeed involve removing both fuel tanks, but luckily no fibreglass work was needed. A thorough survey saves you money!
 
I was in a similar position myself about 18 months ago, albeit with a slightly higher budget. I ended up having surveys / engineers reports done on 3 boats. Based on that my tips to you would be:

1. Find a good surveyor and engineer; and be prepared to pay for their advice. I would strongly recommend VolvoPaul and Nick Vass - feel free to PM me for contact details - though it will depend to a degree where you are based / looking.

2. Personally, I would want the boat to be de-winterised before going much further. Based on bitter experience, I would want the engines started before forking out for surveys. The engines should start promptly. If they turn over for for an age before firing up - I've been told that is not a good sign. I'd then check for smoke (probably quite subjective, but if its pouring out black stuff). I'd then do some really basic stuff like putting it into gear; checking you can raise and lower the legs (if it has drives). Then pop down in the engine bay and check for leaks/ strange noises etc . If nothing puts you off yet - then you could proceed to forking out for a proper inspection.

3. River boats - I would be cautious about buying an old sports boat that has been used for years at low speed. Diesel engines like to revved occasionally.

4. I'd be cautious of very low hours. Engines like to be used. .. 600 hours on a c25 year old boat = 24 hours pa. That seems very low to me. I'd want to find out more.

5. I'd check the windscreen and fittings carefully. I'd bet that curved glass is all Fairline specific, and likely to be difficult / expensive to replace.

6. Carpets, upholstery , covers - can be replaced as you go along - just factor it into the price.

7. Petem is resident Fairline guru on the forum. I'd PM him and ask for advice; he's been very helpful for me in the past.

Good luck
Daz
 
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