Old volvo engines, MD etc

All_at_Sea

Well-Known Member
Joined
3 Aug 2005
Messages
1,385
Location
Hampshire
Visit site
Hello all, long time no post, but here goes..
Juat about to buy an old Westerly Cirrus with a seized MD1. In dooing my reserach it seems there is no one place to explore the older Volvo engines, ie dates, horse power, models etc.

Can any of you tell me a brief lineage of the Volvo models as fitted to smaller sailing boats in the UK. From the MD1, 2, 2b, 2c, MD7, 7a etc or point me in the right direction. If l have to re-engine and need to know what to replace it with as l would like to keep it reasonably original.
 
If you go to THE ENGINE DATABASE

You can punch in the type numbers and get a short technical description and the years each was produced. (Also downlowd brochures and manuals)

( it's a bit finicky about the model descriptions so sometimes better to just enter part model numbers and pick what you want from the list of options)

Some workshop manuals on Bluemoment.com if required. There is a manual for the MD1 about if you want it too.
 
Last edited:
Welcome back.
With regard to your question I have a Westerly Tiger (big sister to yours)that was originally engined with the MD1A which is very different from the MD1B in most respects and not interchangeable cylinder heads or pistons. I had been given the 'B' version as spares but very few parts were transferable to mine. The A was 7.5HP amd the B version 10hp I believe.
There is a scarcity of replacement parts for the MD series, even going to Keyparts who are cheaper and knowledgeable about spares availability.

Frankly the difference between the VP2010 and the old MD1A is a 100% improvemnt on running and vibration and weight.You would need to change the propellor for a different pitch/dia ,and add two new angle iron engine bearers bolted to the originals.
It doesn't have the external flywheel, nor the dreaded Dynastart which is very difficult to find ( though there is a source in Botley, near you ,for alternator overhauls etc who are very competitive on price and do a first class job, or replacement).

No doubt someone will be along with better info.

ianat182
 
Yes I posted here a basic list a few months ago And was told that I did not know what I was talking about so don't really want to go there again

The actual practicalities will throw up variations on HP shaft hights bearer widths gearbox types and ratios rotations that is on just the from MD1 - MD1B

I think the realities are to see what you can get between newest / least expensive and be prepared to start from scratch anything that fits will be a bonus

Unless you can get the mythical engine that has been stored unused most examples of the units you describe are likely to be well past their sell by date

Even with free labour the parts which are available are expensive MD5 is an inclined unit

MD6&7 are Volvo speak for money pits

Sorry to be so negative
 
Last edited:
Hello all, long time no post, but here goes..
Juat about to buy an old Westerly Cirrus with a seized MD1. In dooing my reserach it seems there is no one place to explore the older Volvo engines, ie dates, horse power, models etc.

Can any of you tell me a brief lineage of the Volvo models as fitted to smaller sailing boats in the UK. From the MD1, 2, 2b, 2c, MD7, 7a etc or point me in the right direction. If l have to re-engine and need to know what to replace it with as l would like to keep it reasonably original.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-cat-7742090.aspx
Stu
 
Short term you may be able to free it off. Before I got cheesed off with my MD2B & replaced it with a Yanmar 3ym30 I had to unsieze it every spring.

They tend to have furred up water ways & overheat, mine suffered from condensation - it helps to stuff rags up the air inlets over winter. But i thyink what really killed it was damp from water in the exhaust thro the exhaust valves.

To free it off remove the flywheel & get a really big socket that fits the crankshaft bolt & rock it to & fro until it turns - if you can. It should then start & run. But when left for any time it may well seize again. Rebuilding is likely to cost £1500-2k in parts, plus perhaps the same again in labour. That's why I went for a lighter, smoother, more powerful & quieter new one.
 
But i thyink what really killed it was damp from water in the exhaust thro the exhaust valves.
.

I try to prevent this by removing the air filters at the start of layup and squirting at least five squirts of engine oil into the inlet port and then winding the engine over with cold start engaged and decompressed. This deposits a lovely soup all over the working surfaces and the diesel dilutes it enough to reach places other oils might not reach like behind the rings.

The only disadvantage is that you only have to look at the engine during layup and it immediately starts :) Ie do not turn it even a partial turn using the starter!!!!

Rags in the exhaust will also stop the convection air flows through the engine if the water trop is dry.
 
Top