Oil pipe, T piece, banjo unions, Yanmar, mmm

bikedaft

bikedaft

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Started pissing oil, round back of Yanmar 3GM30F. Oil feed pipe.

Four banjo unions, and a T piece. One of the banjo unions has two pipes into it/"through pipe" if you know what i mean.

If i can find one on a shelf, fine. But am worried won't get it on time for heading off in 12 days...

Anyone know anywhere in Glasgow/W Scotland that could fabricate one?

Thanks ☺
 
that's the very one - i couldn't find it on my phone google, but found it first time this am. out of stock, but reasonably priced. will sit on the phone this morning - thanks!
 
Marine Inboard Engine Servicing - Argyll, Scotland - Swordfish Marine
www.swordfishmarine.co.uk › Servicing
All our engineers are fully trained and we are main dealers for Yanmar and Mercruiser. ... Swordfish Marine service all makes of inboard engines, from small 9hp diesels up to racing petrol in-boards ... MerCruiser Engine Servicing & Repairs.

Yanmar 3GM30F external oil line - Cruisers & Sailing Forums
www.cruisersforum.com › ... › Engines and Propulsion Systems
Jun 13, 2015 - 15 posts - ‎5 authors
That pesky external steel oil line that runs around the back of the 3GM30F is awfully rusty so I've ordered a part from Yanmar . ... an external 2 micron filter in the fuel line, prior to the fuel pump, where I could easily service it.
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Porthandbuoy said:
Take the knackered pipes to Pirtek in Paisley and ask them to make up new ones in hydraulic hose. That’s what I did.
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chers. have just been in there - they said they couldn't do anything so small, which is not the answer i expected.

however i have got an OEM part for 80 from bottom line marine which should arrive in a day or two. hopefully ;-)

thanks all for your help
 
It the pipe is holed due to corrosion-as I had with a 1GM10 engine some years ago-If, as in my case, there is enough good pipe left near the banjo's, cut out the bad pipe and use HP oil hose with those ear type compression clips to repair.

The 1GM10 I fixed twelve years ago is still working good with my repaired pipe on it.
 
rotrax said:
It the pipe is holed due to corrosion-as I had with a 1GM10 engine some years ago-If, as in my case, there is enough good pipe left near the banjo's, cut out the bad pipe and use HP oil hose with those ear type compression clips to repair.

The 1GM10 I fixed twelve years ago is still working good with my repaired pipe on it.
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it seems to be at entry into one of the arms of the T - not sure if maybe got bent during fitting? (think original was mild steel, the one i took off is copper)

i do actually have a small dia copper T piece somewhere(!) off an old audi hydraulic suspension, compression fitting ends.. will try to find that tonight. however i had to cut one of the other arms of the 4 way oil pipe to get it out from behind the starter as i could not get it off with the tools that i had...

cheers :-)
 
Probably be very difficult as the inside of the pipe will be covered in carbonised oil and will not accept any solder.
Alsi, I am not suer there the oil feeds to.. but if you leave anything inside the pipe, it will almost certainly migrate to somewhere where it will cause damage to a bearing..

That's why I replaced mine.. but i did wrap the new ones in self amalging rubber tape to keep the water drips off!
 
We have to repair regularly small bore steel pipe that is used on gauge and instrument lines on large refrigeration systems, when they corroded and leak oil and ammonia. As long as you clean up and it’s not too pitted you can get silver solder onto it quite well, does need a fair heat though and additional flux. Other option is to cut and sleeve the bad section, but again only good if you’ve got the gear to do this
 
thanks everyone for your helpful replies, as ever :-)

Bottom Line in IOM were brilliant - most stuff arrived the next day,.

the copper banjo washers are non standard - order with the pipe...

all back together today. no oil leaks :-)
 
bikedaft said:
thanks everyone for your helpful replies, as ever :)

Bottom Line in IOM were brilliant - most stuff arrived the next day,.

the copper banjo washers are non standard - order with the pipe...

all back together today. no oil leaks :)
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Hi, old threadi know. Could you tell me how difficult was this to fit please?

Do you have to bend the pipe to fit? Pictures of the om replacement make it look as if it won't fit in the shape it comes in.

Thanks for your time.
 
IanCC said:
Hi, old threadi know. Could you tell me how difficult was this to fit please?

Do you have to bend the pipe to fit? Pictures of the om replacement make it look as if it won't fit in the shape it comes in.

Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...
Hi

It was a bit of a pain, but we can lift the cockpit sole to get at the back of the engine... had to take off the starter and some of the stuff at the back of the engine, but if access to the back of the engine is easy, not a big job.

The new part did need slight bending, I just did it carefully, not stressing the T piece etc.

Good luck ?
 
Ps have a 3GM30 in the garage if you want to take a look before going etc. Dumbarton. From memory the starter required several 6" extensions for socket set, to remove a bolt.
 
Thanks for offer, really kind, but i am sat nof very far from my own which i have been crawling around. I only found the pipe because i was replacing the lift pump which isn't easy in itself, took some photos at arms length of said pump and saw this horrorshow of a rusty pipe revealed in the pics. I had the starter off yesterday to do the timing.

I think i can do it access wise i was primarily worried you had to do some technical bending and my imagination saw me ruining the replacement.

Thanks for your help, really appreciated.
 
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