Oil my Bitts!

Seagreen

Seagreen

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Easy there..

The Bitts on my foredeck need some TLC, and were varnished once, but as we all know, varnish and mooring warps don't mix well.

I'm not happy letting them go grey, though, so I'm looking for an oil finish which will keep the oak looking good yet standing up to punishing chafe from warp and chain.

All suggestions welcome.
 
I can only think of mixing up raw linseed oil and a bit of white spirit to help the oil sink in. It will start off being a bit sticky though.

With abrasion from warps, etc, I think you are asking for the impossible :) to have the oak a warm golden colour.
 
I was thinking that a pristine finish is too unrealistic, but some sort of deep penetrating oil would help keep the wood vaguely "woody" would do. (Alliteration alert) I've been put off using linseed as friends of mine say it goes black after a while. I particularly want to protect the end grain on the top of the bitts as this gets most exposure to sun and rain.
 
I suggest you just go and look in any reputable chandlers, ask their advice, see what they have got. Ask at more than one place.

There are a variety of teak oils, deck oils, penetrating oils, etc. Some sink in which often looks blotchy for a while, then comes good. Some leave a nicer finish but are either tacky, or just rub off in use.

It depends on the wood, the state it is in, exposure to sun and water, salt and fresh, side grain, end grain, smooth or slightly worn and split. All the products say what they are designed for.

There are too many factors here, that will be known to you, but we can't guess, so we can't give you a definitive recommendation. There was a long thread on this about 6 months ago, try searching it, it might help you.

Basically, read what it says on the tin, you will get all the relevant info there, then pick accordingly.

Good luck

Mike
 
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Capping the bitts in brass or even copper, would be an option. There is another issue with making a stout hoop to fit over the lot of it to prevent the jib sheet wrapping itself round the bitts, but that still doesn't keep then shiny. I'm thinking a combination of varnish for the knees and oil around the worn bits will do best. Fiddly but maybe the easiest solution.
 
If I didn't use metal caps, what I would do instead is to clean the top of the bitts back to clean, sound timber. Then laminate several layers of glass cloth to the top of the bitts, and an inch or two down the sides, using epoxy resin.

The epoxy will have to be protected from sunlight because it deteriorates when exposed to UV rays. I would use a good quality white paint (or red for port and green for starboard :D)
 
Yep, glass matrix & epoxy is the way to go. Will still show the wood grain.
Then coat it with a good polyurethane varnish for UV protection.
Cheers,
Chris
 
If you are going the brass route then D section rubbing bands are the way to go. For rhte wood use Sikkens Novatec/Novatop. This stands up to UV and is reasonable on chafe as it is eroding and not a hard film - and is easy to touch up. It is very good on the end grain. I have it on my sampson post and I have not touched the top for several years.
 
Tranona said:
If you are going the brass route then D section rubbing bands are the way to go. For rhte wood use Sikkens Novatec/Novatop. This stands up to UV and is reasonable on chafe as it is eroding and not a hard film - and is easy to touch up. It is very good on the end grain. I have it on my sampson post and I have not touched the top for several years.
Click to expand...

Now that's worth investigating. Cheers!
 
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