Oil for a Volvo 2030

I am sorry. I dont think so.
Just an example: if you are going to replace pistons and moving parts, what would you choose, old spares or modern alloys and modern machined parts or the old ones?

That is completely irrelevant to the choice of oil. The engine is made of modern machined parts of appropriate quality and your scenario is not representative of the same sort of choice.

As Vyv has explained the engines never run in the conditions that require the additives in semi synthetic oils. They are low specific output (typically 35hp/litre displacement) and rev to maximum 3600 rpm, but normally run at a constant less than 2500. Compare with an automotive engine that has specific output more than twice that at twice the RPM and be required to accelerate regularly and run at higher rpm.

Oil in small leisure marine engines is changed at between 100-150 hours (often less in practice) compared with the norm for vehicles of 350-400 hours (10000 miles).

Once you understand these basic facts you will appreciate that the demands on oil are very different and there is no benefit using a higher performance oil in a basic marine engine such as yours. My last boat had the same engine as yours and was operated as a charter boat. It followed the usual oil change routine of every 150 hours using 15/40 CF oil. It did 3500 hours when I sold it and the engine ran as well as it did when new. No wear, did not burn any oil and met manufacturer's performance standard.

So don't waste your money buying oil your engine does not need.
 
The recommended oil, years ago is now obsolete.
Oil quality have improved, why not use it? Lower wear, less sludge and piston deposits, why disregard these benefits?

The recommended oil is, as you say, obsolete. You are also correct that there have been improvements. Those improvements are in the modern 15/40 mineral oils.As there is a modern, improved, recommended oil for your engine, there is no need to use anything else.
 
I am sorry. I dont think so.
Just an example: if you are going to replace pistons and moving parts, what would you choose, old spares or modern alloys and modern machined parts or the old ones?

'I don't think so,' doesn't seem like a very scientific argument. I suggest you look at my website.

How are 'modern alloys' any different or better than the old ones? In fact the opposite is true, modern alloys are produced to the absolute minimum of the expensive elements, whereas older ones always had small excesses to allow for production errors. For example 304 stainless steel was never magnetic in the past but today it is due to the minimum specified levels of nickel.
 
I can not understand your arguments.
Lets give another example considering only sludge in engines..
We all agree that modern oils inhibit much better sludge formation than old oils.
And less sludge is a huge benefit for any engine.
Then why should I use old oils?
 
I can not understand your arguments.
Lets give another example considering only sludge in engines..
We all agree that modern oils inhibit much better sludge formation than old oils.
And less sludge is a huge benefit for any engine.
Then why should I use old oils?


No need to use old oils, use a modern 15/40 mineral oil :encouragement:
 
Personally I think that for many of us, not motoring many hours because we love sailing synthetic oils are not economically the best solution. Because in a marine environment its recommended at least to change the oil yearly. In spite of few yearly use hours.
 
Personally I think that for many of us, not motoring many hours because we love sailing synthetic oils are not economically the best solution. Because in a marine environment its recommended at least to change the oil yearly. In spite of few yearly use hours.

I'm currently managing with 3 or 4 yearly oil changes with semi so with fully synthetic I could push that out even further. If you work out the total life cost I'm actually saving money compared to annuals. As I said above, not the engine OP'd in this thread though.

The links in #20 include photos. :)

Just found a photo which I've never posted before which might be of interest to some. My Jag V8 engine, over 20 years old, 70k miles and always used with synthetic oil and extended (1.5x to 2x) oil changes. The manufacturer's spec is mineral oil such that in the early years I had to take my own oil to the dealer as I wanted the early stamps. It looks as if it's just left the production line even though it spends most of its time at very high speed.

IMG_2927.JPG


Richard
 
Last edited:
I'm currently managing with 3 or 4 yearly oil changes with semi so with fully synthetic I could push that out even further. If you work out the total life cost I'm actually saving money compared to annuals. As I said above, not the engine OP'd in this thread though.

The links in #20 include photos. :)

Just found a photo which I've never posted before which might be of interest to some. My Jag V8 engine, over 20 years old, 70k miles and always used with synthetic oil and extended (1.5x to 2x) oil changes. The manufacturer's spec is mineral oil such that in the early years I had to take my own oil to the dealer as I wanted the early stamps. It looks as if it's just left the production line even though it spends most of its time at very high speed.

IMG_2927.JPG


Richard

Very very interesting. A beautiful engine!
 
I'm currently managing with 3 or 4 yearly oil changes with semi so with fully synthetic I could push that out even further. If you work out the total life cost I'm actually saving money compared to annuals. As I said above, not the engine OP'd in this thread though.

The links in #20 include photos. :)

Just found a photo which I've never posted before which might be of interest to some. My Jag V8 engine, over 20 years old, 70k miles and always used with synthetic oil and extended (1.5x to 2x) oil changes. The manufacturer's spec is mineral oil such that in the early years I had to take my own oil to the dealer as I wanted the early stamps. It looks as if it's just left the production line even though it spends most of its time at very high speed.

IMG_2927.JPG


Richard
A digression but is that engine from an XK8? They look like the original plastic chain tensioners which were famous for cracking. Changed mine for the latest metal ones at 95,000 miles although they actually looked like new. Always fed synthetic oil ....currently Castrol Edge Professional 5w30.
 
Hello Paul
Yes I read the Cox aricle.
But I have my doubts.
As a researcher in fluid dynamics I prefer to follow the advices of Shell and other oil companies with important research laboratories.

You have to remember that they are in the business of selling oil, and selling you the most expensive oil they can, particularly synthetic.

Their market is automotive, NOT industrial or marine. Read their marketing material again - where does it refer to industrial engines? There is no logical need for synthetic oils designed for high speed, high output engines to be used in low speed, low output industrial engines. The engine manufacturers do not recommend them and users who do really high hours do not use them. The lubrication requirements and duty cycles are very different from automotive engines.

I am surprised that somebody who claims a scientific background has so much difficulty in grasping these basic points.
 
A recent peculiarity is pricing however. I just bought from the local agricultural dealer (who also services my tractors) 20 litres of oil. I asked for my usual CF-4 mineral 10W30 which I've used for years to be asked 'why don't you buy the oil which Kubota now recommend? It's what we always use nowadays however old the tractor'. It turned out to be fully synthetic 10W40 to CF-J. And what about the price? ~£50 for the mineral, £40 for the fully synthetic!

Me, I've not enough knowledge to judge the merits or demerits of the oil, but it surprised me that the fully synthetic was cheaper.
 
Top