Oil filter change with engine full of oil!

Tip some may know .
My oil filter is at a angle so I always have some oil dropping out ,
as well as covering under the engine I also cut a water bottle which I slide under the filter ,
once loosen I then push it hight enough over the filter so I can just get my fingers in to finish undoing it ,
most of the oil will end up in the plastic bottle

I also do the same when changing my fuel filter .
 
Further to the many helpful tips provided, there is a bit more to filters than the thread size and 'O' ring diameter. Also to be considered are the presence of an anti run back valve and a pressure relief valve and its setting. The former if specified by the OEM prevents the filter emptying when the engine stops therefore ensuring the flow of oil starts promptly when the engine restarts. The latter protects the flow of oil when the filter clogs by bypassing the filter medium.
The filter keeps the oil clean of destructive particles so is a really important part of the oil system protecting the engine from wear. Hard particles in the oil reaching metal to metal surfaces can bridge the oil film protecting the surfaces resulting in small particles of metal being eroded which do further damage. Buying cheap filters is false economy. There are certain makes of filter worth avoiding such as F---, not wishing to be sued by any manufacturer I'll let you work out who that is, a look at youtube will be enlightening. Smaller filter cans will contain less filter medium therefore will clog sooner and require changing sooner, it therefore makes sense to use the largest filter can possible because the filter pressure drop will increase as the filter clogs. Higher backpressure will reduce the oil flow even with what is theoretically a positive displacement oil pump. Oil is an engine's life blood not only preventing metal to metal contact but also cooling the internal components.
Sorry if I appear perdantic and I hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs.
 
Further to the many helpful tips provided, there is a bit more to filters than the thread size and 'O' ring diameter. Also to be considered are the presence of an anti run back valve and a pressure relief valve and its setting. The former if specified by the OEM prevents the filter emptying when the engine stops therefore ensuring the flow of oil starts promptly when the engine restarts. The latter protects the flow of oil when the filter clogs by bypassing the filter medium.
The filter keeps the oil clean of destructive particles so is a really important part of the oil system protecting the engine from wear. Hard particles in the oil reaching metal to metal surfaces can bridge the oil film protecting the surfaces resulting in small particles of metal being eroded which do further damage. Buying cheap filters is false economy. There are certain makes of filter worth avoiding such as F---, not wishing to be sued by any manufacturer I'll let you work out who that is, a look at youtube will be enlightening. Smaller filter cans will contain less filter medium therefore will clog sooner and require changing sooner, it therefore makes sense to use the largest filter can possible because the filter pressure drop will increase as the filter clogs. Higher backpressure will reduce the oil flow even with what is theoretically a positive displacement oil pump. Oil is an engine's life blood not only preventing metal to metal contact but also cooling the internal components.
Sorry if I appear perdantic and I hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs.

No need to apologise for providing clarification as the forum is constantly evolving. :)

However, just to add a bit of balance, I've used air and oil filters from that manufacturer on occasions over many decades and never had any problems. I suspect that they also manufacture some OEM filters so you are probably using them without even realising it. :)

Richard
 
A plastic bag does a similar job and allows you to grip the filter from the outside of the bag.

Yes your right , the only thing is with a bag as you undo the filter you end up squeeze the bag unless you have another pair of hands helping you , with oil running outside the bag , but if it works for you that's great .
 
Further to the many helpful tips provided, there is a bit more to filters than the thread size and 'O' ring diameter. Also to be considered are the presence of an anti run back valve and a pressure relief valve and its setting. The former if specified by the OEM prevents the filter emptying when the engine stops therefore ensuring the flow of oil starts promptly when the engine restarts. The latter protects the flow of oil when the filter clogs by bypassing the filter medium.
The filter keeps the oil clean of destructive particles so is a really important part of the oil system protecting the engine from wear. Hard particles in the oil reaching metal to metal surfaces can bridge the oil film protecting the surfaces resulting in small particles of metal being eroded which do further damage. Buying cheap filters is false economy. There are certain makes of filter worth avoiding such as F---, not wishing to be sued by any manufacturer I'll let you work out who that is, a look at youtube will be enlightening. Smaller filter cans will contain less filter medium therefore will clog sooner and require changing sooner, it therefore makes sense to use the largest filter can possible because the filter pressure drop will increase as the filter clogs. Higher backpressure will reduce the oil flow even with what is theoretically a positive displacement oil pump. Oil is an engine's life blood not only preventing metal to metal contact but also cooling the internal components.
Sorry if I appear perdantic and I hope I am not teaching you to suck eggs.

I feel better now for replacing the smaller ones with larger diameter filters :D

As said by many posters there was no problem with the oil level and I also used a plastic bag since the filters are horizontal.
Just put a bit of paper towel under to catch any run offs.

Thanks for all the info.
 
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