Oil filter cartridge

How tight should one tighten it? It was hell to get the old one off...

Smear the joint lightly with oil. Spin on until the joint washer contacts the face then 1/2 to 3/4 turn.... no more.
(Sometimes printed on the filter)

Use a filter wrench to remove. Various types. Use which ever type is easiest to use on your engine.

(Someone will suggest punching a screw driver through it. Before you follow the advice be sure that they are prepared to clean up the mess you will make)
 
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You can buy sockets to fit most standard filters (make sure you get the right size, I have two as Triumph changed the filter sizes on me last year) and if you do, you can use a torque wrench ~ 8Nm. The screwdriver method is OK in a garage with a drip tray under the engine, but definitely NOT over an open bilge.
 
Smear the joint lightly with oil. Spin on until the joint washer contacts the face then 1/2 to 3/4 turn.... no more.
(Sometimes printed on the filter)

Use a filter wrench to remove. Various types. Use which ever type is easiest to use on your engine.

(Someone will suggest punching a screw driver through it. Before you follow the advice be sure that they are prepared to clean up the mess you will make)

I had to use the screwdriver punching technique: I did not have a wrench and I was afloat somewhere "remote". Ergo, I had to do the cleaning up (not too bad compared with the sweating and the swearing trying to unscrew the Bl@@dy thing).

I smeared oil on the new thread and seal, as suggested... lets hope it goes OK.

The problem with the wrench is that I am not sure how I can get enough space to turn it... the filter seems to be in a awkward place
 
I fit mine hand tight after smearing oil on the sealing ring. Removal again easy to do by hand.

I do however wear gloves that give a good non-slip grip.

Never had a leak.
 
Every engine user's manual I've read says oil the gasket and fasten handtight - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. As soon as the rubber gasket is lightly compressed it acts both as a seal and a lock for the screw thread - like a spring washer would.

Rob.
 
The screwdriver through the filter method is ok as long as you know that your new filter is the right one. I've heard of a chap who bought a generic oil filter locally, screwdrivered the old one off and then found his generic one didn't fit. :)
 
I had to use the screwdriver punching technique: I did not have a wrench and I was afloat somewhere "remote". Ergo, I had to do the cleaning up (not too bad compared with the sweating and the swearing trying to unscrew the Bl@@dy thing).

I smeared oil on the new thread and seal, as suggested... lets hope it goes OK.

The problem with the wrench is that I am not sure how I can get enough space to turn it... the filter seems to be in a awkward place

Yes I know the problem getting the space to use a wrench. I have a chain type one that came free with can of oil about 25 years ago and a rubber strap type (that's a bit stretchy though)
There are chain types that a socket, extension and ratchet will fit. There are also three legged ones that fit over the top of the filter and take a spanner or socket wrench.
If you have the space to turn it with a screwdriver through it I am sure you'll have space for one of the above.



Regarding the tightening. my (Volvo) manual says 1/2 turn.
The old filter ( ex Peugeot) awaiting disposal has 3/4 turn printed in it!
 
If you have the space to turn it with a screwdriver through it I am sure you'll have space for one of the above.

I didn't... and guess what, I found out after I punctured the filter and removing the bu@@er was rather difficult and messy...

has anyone else had the feeling of digging oneself in an ever deeper hole?:mad:
 
Another Top Tip

More effective, and less messy than the screwdriver through the filter method which can just make a real mess of the filter when really tight (e.g. when put on by a garage, 'nuff said:rolleyes:) is to use a blunt cold chisel on the rolled lip edge of the filter, and tap it round with a hammer.

As the filter is much stronger there, it doesn't puncture the filter or dent enough to damage the filter head.

A bluntish chisel will dent it enough to get a purchase without cutting into it or puncturing it.

Obviously you have to chisel it tangentially, or near enough, in the required direction i.e. tap it round.

You can do this a bit at a time working from the same place when space is tight.

As soon as the filter is loosened it comes off by hand.

This technique works every time, regardless of how tight the filter is, with no need for special tools.

It's often easier than getting a special tool into position, as the cold chisel length enables ther hammer to be used in an area where there's more space.

It does require a bit of finesse with the hammer, I admit, but as a seasoned practioner I can recommend the method wholeheartedly.
 
The Halfords own-brand filters for my car have a pressed-metal hexagon spot-welded to the end, so you can just put a socket or spanner on them. I wish more filter manufacturers did this.

Pete
 
Another problem with the screwdriver method is that you can deform the part to unscrew off the housing or even damage the thread (ask me how I found this out as an enthusiastic teenager many years ago!) then you literally have to tear the old one off - right mess!

Best use a chain or clamp wrench / old fan belt with grips / filter socket or even with a good pair of grippy gloves they will come by hand - sometimes.
 
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