Oil Changes

Interesting - Yanmar state that under no circumstances should synthetic oils be used as these can seriously damage the engine.
Only mineral oils should be used in non turbocharged engines.

Where do they say that, currently?
 
Re: Oil Changes, what Yanmar actually say for the 1 GM....

Use an engine oil that meets or exceeds
the following guidelines and classifications:
• API Service Categories: CC or higher
TBN value: 9 or more
The oil must be changed when the Total
Base Number (TBN) has been reduced
to 2.0.
TBN (mgKOH/g) test method: JIS
K-2501–5.2–2(HCI), ASTM D4739(HCI)
• Recommended SAE Vi
scosity: 10W30,
15W40. Engine oil 10W30 and 15W40
can be used throughout the year.
• Never use API Service Category CG-4
or CH-4 oils.
Unquote.

I assume it's all about Sulphur tolerance, marine fuel can be high sulphur and CG/CH don't like that.

So nothing to say don't use fully synth CF, CI etc.
 
Re: Oil Changes, what Yanmar actually say for the 1 GM....

It's hard to believe that running at constant revs would destroy an engine. After all, most diesel generators do just that.
 
Re: Oil Changes, what Yanmar actually say for the 1 GM....

It's hard to believe that running at constant revs would destroy an engine. After all, most diesel generators do just that.

Indeed.
But you might be unlucky with the rpm you choose.
I recall seeing some video of the oil flying around in a crankcase, it does some funny things at some rpm.

I think Vyv's much quoted bore polishing incident could have been a fault of some sort in the oil distribution.
It seems to bore polishing as distinct from bore glazing.
I.e. metal is being worn smooth, not a glassy deposit being laid down on it.
I struggle to accept that this is caused by deposits above the top ring, from the wrong oil.
But I suppose it's the oil/fuel combination that matters.

Seems convenient for Yanmar to point at the oil. Why didn't honing the bores and putting the right oil in sort it?
 
I would change the oil and filter every year however much the engine is used, it doesn't cost much and better safe than sorry. Long distance sailing we changed them every 100 hours as the manual required.
 
I would change the oil and filter every year however much the engine is used, it doesn't cost much and better safe than sorry. Long distance sailing we changed them every 100 hours as the manual required.

Which is absolutely fine. I have met people who have changed the oil in their cars/bikes at a lower mileage than recommended by the manufacturer on the basis that if the manufacturer says change at 6000 miles then 3000 miles will be even better for the engine. I'm sure they are right and their vehicle would outlast the standard one, assuming that it is bearing wear which ultimately determines the overall longevity of the vehicle.

And, of course, there's the rub .... even a vehicle with the recommended engine oil change interval is extremely unlikely to "meet its maker" because the bearings have failed.

How far this equation can be pushed in the direction of extending manufacturers oil change intervals, if one so wished, depends on so many other factors: type of oil used, quality of oil used, mode of engine usage, frequency of engine usage, storage conditions, effficency of old oil extraction, condition of engine etc that a one-size-fits-all approach would be foolhardy, so sticking to the manufacturer's recommendation, which is based on their assumptions of "typical" conditions, is the safest bet for most people.

However, if your engine had very untypical use, and you ran it for 5 hours every year, would you still feel that an annual oil change was necessary from an engineering/longevity perspective, even if you actually still went ahead with it?

Richard
 
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For the price of a few liters of oil change it.
Oil is so important & you wouldn't believe how much it can change without you actually knowing especially after its sat.
At work (I work on big ships) we do oil tests once or twice a month (oil in water, visco ect.) and we send them off to be lab anylized once a month/2months when the results come back sometimes its degraded quite substantially and that's normally after the engine/equipment has been stood and only run on short run ups. ( And our oil is of a very high quality & normally the oil is continually purified but it doesn't stop it degrading)
The point im trying to get at is it doesn't cost the world to change the oil nor is it hard.
There is a flip side to this, engines are very resilient and unless the oil is very bad it will probably be fine. But i cant stress enough how much of a good idea it is to change the oil, always check oil aswell to check for any water ingress, metal bits ect. it just helps with the longevity of the engine.

J
 
The older the engine the more frequent oil changes. The biggest reason for frequent oil changes on older engines (mine is a 40plus year old MD11C volvo) is contamination by fuel passing through and diluting the oil. I do between 40 and 100 hours motoring per season and I change the oil and filter every year; If i do less than say 30 hours, I will not change it; there is no fixed rule in my opinion. Engines that use fresh water for cooling, may have a huge problem with glycol finding its way to the oil and creating acid and increasing the oil viscosity, but, this is a different issue. Oil type and quality is even more important than change frequency. I use modern fully Synthetic oils of low viscosity and high lubrication; which is an anathema for some.
Wow! some strange ideas!
S
 
The older the engine the more frequent oil changes. The biggest reason for frequent oil changes on older engines (mine is a 40plus year old MD11C volvo) is contamination by fuel passing through and diluting the oil. I do between 40 and 100 hours motoring per season and I change the oil and filter every year; If i do less than say 30 hours, I will not change it; there is no fixed rule in my opinion. Engines that use fresh water for cooling, may have a huge problem with glycol finding its way to the oil and creating acid and increasing the oil viscosity, but, this is a different issue. Oil type and quality is even more important than change frequency. I use modern fully Synthetic oils of low viscosity and high lubrication; which is an anathema for some.

Wow! some strange ideas!
S

I did spend a few seconds reflecting on which I would prefer ........ an indirectly cooled engine with a little glycol antifreeze finding it's way into the oil or a directly cooled engine with a little salt finding its way into the oil.

After a little thought I decided that I would prefer the glycol leakage as at least antifeeze contains anti-corrosion additives which might give some protection to the engine internals. Salt in the engine sounds like the kiss of death. :(

Richard
 
Oil and filters are cheap, engines and gearboxes are expensive. Mine get changed every year whatever the hours (usually <60). Changing the fine fuel filter is often unnecessary but it does give me a handle on the possibility of fuel contaminants.
 
We need to change the oil after the specific period of time?
If yes then can anyone please tell me the interval after which oil must be changed.
 
We need to change the oil after the specific period of time?
If yes then can anyone please tell me the interval after which oil must be changed.

Generally, your engine maker will specify the approximate number of hours run, after which an oil change should be done. Maybe around 200. Most of us leisure sailors probably don't do as much as that in a year, so it is recommended to change it anyway every year. Good practice is to change it just before layup, so that good clean uncontaminated oil is protecting your engine.
Welcome to the forum, by the way.
 
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