How often should i change the boat engine oil, i have done it two or three times now but engine only has 500 hrs on it, our Audi does that in 33 weeks but we only change oil, filters etc every year or two!
With a good engine and fuelled with modern standard of fuel the actual answer is not very often.
The key is analysing the oil at say the end of the season,.
I have not been changing my oils on a calander basis since the late 80s now, either on my yacht ( over 5,000hrs, car ( I aim for over 200,000 per car ) or commercially ( I am responsible for over 20MW of 4 stroke trunk engine diesels)
However I do admit fully testing the oil works out more expensive, but with my background and knowledge of the condition of the engine, I do a simple check on my ycht and cars of running a dribble of new oil and used engine oil down a piece of card. If the engine oil is very viscous ,stooty or cloudy etc then its time to change as the base chemicals ( which guard against acids )will be getting low also.
Lots of people will be advising you to change the oil every year to stop acidic corrosion, this had some credence years ago with high sulphur fuels and poor quality oils but is frankly rubbish today. All the books are stuck in the saem time warp as well. I have a hunch though the analysis route will become the norm in the not too distant future.
your audi has a modern design of engine which puts lets dirt into the oil. your boat engine is likely to be an older dirtier example, and in a sailboat is often used for short spells when the oil doesnt get up to temperature and so contains more moisture.
at the same time, your boat engine is likely to use a less exotic and cheaper oil quality than your audi so my answer would be to change boat oil more often than car
the engine maker will have a recommended schedule.
P.S. its quite clear that car makers, rather than use modern synthetic oils to increase engine life, have instead used them to lengthen service intervals and make their cars more attractive in the fleet market.
Nothing kills a diesel (road or marine) than not changing the oil at least as often as the manufacturer says.
While agreeing with what Brian says about modern fuels and oils, his engines clearly enjoy a much closer monitoring and maintenance schedule than the average private car gets from the local garage. Also, he is in control of what oils are actually being put in to his engines. How many of us know whether the garage is using decent quality oil or bulk cheapo rubbish when they do an oil change? I asked and the boss said I was the first person to do so for a very long time.....
Most leisure marine diesels have a very tough life - left standing for weeks at a time in a cold damp environment during which condensation on engine internals can play havoc unless the lube is in first class condition. The old truism that yacht engines rust away before they wear out still holds good in most cases. So dont take chances with lubrication. Clean oil will give the best protection over the winter lay up, so give the poor engine a chance. Yes, you probably are throwing out oil which is still useable, but why take chances? Oil cost is minimal compared with the cost of replacing the engine itself.
My 30+ year old petrol engine manufacturer (Albin) not only insists on oil changes before lay up every year but demands the use of preserving oils during the winter or any extended period of lay up, so the engine should get 2 oil changes per season regardless of use - and thats for petrol! OK oil technology when the engine was built was crude by comparison, but....
For my 25 yo engine ( but probably designed 35 years ago) I use a basic mineral engine oil and a generic filter type, each change costs about £9 all in ( filter is £3, providing I buy 5 at a time, and Oil is !£12 for 5 liters)It therefore seesma small investment to do this twice a year.
I just regard oil as cheap maintenance, so change at around 150hrs or once a year, I don,t change the filter every time though. I think most boat engines suffer from under use, if my engine ran more I would put change times up to 200-250hrs. Bill.
Good points Old Harry about me being in control of quality - its my exprience too that cheaper oils do not last they tend to have less additives re quantity and quality.
Somebody else also made an equally good point about the type of use, I try ensure my all engines 'work' to at least 2/3rds load if possible and reach full working temperature whenever I run them and I do not just run them off load on tickover.
At the end of the day everybody must do what suits them, but as I said before I wonder how long the practice of changing oils twice a year just as a precaution will last in the future of dearer oils and shortages. It seems from the general comments oil is still far too cheap!!.
Not sure about the point somebody made either about car makers have just extended service intervals rather than extend engine life, I have never had to scrap a car engine because the enigne was worn out it has always been the cost of repairs to new suspension/drive shafts etc has been more than the scrap value of the car.
Happy sailing I should be out and about at the weekend
Brian
<< car makers have just extended service intervals rather than extend engine life, I have never had to scrap a car engine because the engine was worn out..>>
I would expect that modern 'low maintenance' engines need high spec synthetic oils, which in the right engine will last longer. As to worn out engines I have a 1994 Land Rover with 160k on the clock. A head strip recently showed the engine has virtually no wear because it has had regular oil changes. But slow running marine diesels will not give the right conditions for synthetics which usually need the high tempratures of modern high revving engines to be effective. Synthetics can actually damage a slow running engine because at low speeds the oil and bearing surfaces are not hot enough to allow the oil to provide proper protection.
A few years back I saw a Peugeot diesel (which can run to 3-400k) which rattled like a good 'un, low oil pressure, badly worn bores, blowby etc with a total mileage of 125k. Some idiot had run it 40k without servicing or oil changes.... 'just topped it up now and then'. Unfortunately unlike old British motorbikes, the oil was not 'self changing'!
My 30+ year old petrol engine manufacturer (Albin) not only insists on oil changes before lay up every year but demands the use of preserving oils during the winter or any extended period of lay up, so the engine should get 2 oil changes per season regardless of use - and thats for petrol! OK oil technology when the engine was built was crude by comparison, but....
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I don't know if this is the right or wrong way, but it's what I do. At the end of season, change oil & filter (And the rest obviously). At the start of new season, run engine for about an hour and change oil again. I will not change the oil again until the end of the season (Unless I hit over about 120 hours - which is likely)
Marine engines are notorious for running cold - a typical coolant temperature is only some 70 degrees. Cars run at 90 +, and the oil commonly at 140. which is obviously enough to boil off any condensation. With cool running, condensation, hours or weeks or months of standing in a salty atmosphere, it seems to me a sensible precaution to change the oil frequently.
As everyone always says, oil is cheap, engines are not.
most manufacturers of engines quote between 150 and 200hrs for oil change.
The time spent changing your oil will be repaid by the years of longer life of your engine.
Just a note, posted last week about an oil additive that I used last service, some new additive that is not Slik50 but similar but better work. Could hear the difference in less than 5 mins.