Oak to replace teak cockpit seat slats?

[jimmynoboat]

Despite previous, forum induced, optimism regarding the teak slats in my cockpit, I've had enough! Whilst sailing I mangaged to put my wieght on just one of them and it gave way forcing me to admit that they do not just look bad but they are rotten and need replacing. Lovely new teak would probably be best but I just happen to have quite a lot of Oak in the garage that, with a little rounding of the edges, would do the job.

Anyone here know why I shouldn't do it?

 

[DavenHelen]

I think the navy used to use a bit of Oak...

 

[mihtjel]

Didn't they also use to cover it in lots of tar? And/or scrub it clean every day...

Anyway, it'll probably be pretty, and if it's just sitting in the garage anyway why not put it to good use!

 

[ianat182]

Be aware that if the surface treatment you use becomes broken it will turn black; perhaps 2- part polyurethane varnish will make it a better wearing surface, or epoxy with UV protection. Be shame not to use though.

 

[Ex-SolentBoy]

Be aware that if the surface treatment you use becomes broken it will turn black; perhaps 2- part polyurethane varnish will make it a better wearing surface, or epoxy with UV protection. Be shame not to use though.

Sounds like good advice to me.

My experience of oak (my house is an oak frame, with oak cladding) is that it is a great material, but you should be very cautious when treating it AND allowing it to get wet. Our external cladding is untreated, it gets soaked by the rain, and lashed with salt laden spray as we are near the sea. After 10 or so years it is a weathered grey colour all over but there is no mould or blackness at all and we have not so much as touched it.

The door and frame was treated with a varnish. Where this has failed and water has entered it has caused the oak to turn black.

So, using oak for your seat could well be a great idea, as long as you like the natural finish.

 

[Scotty_Tradewind]

Despite previous, forum induced, optimism regarding the teak slats in my cockpit, I've had enough! Whilst sailing I mangaged to put my wieght on just one of them and it gave way forcing me to admit that they do not just look bad but they are rotten and need replacing. Lovely new teak would probably be best but I just happen to have quite a lot of Oak in the garage that, with a little rounding of the edges, would do the job.

Anyone here know why I shouldn't do it?

I agree with Solent Boy....
No problem usually with oak but it doesn't take a finish easily for external use.
Leave it bare and you will have less problems with rot but it will take on a grey patina.

 

[Sybarite]

I have recently changed mine to the hard wood used for outdoor terrasses and it works very well. Twice as thick as the former teak but much more robust.

 

[Bosun Higgs]

Had some oak rubbing strakes on the keels of my cat for 10 years and they were as solid when I sold the boat as when I put them on it.

 

[LONG_KEELER]

I know very little about wood but my tiller is oak ( strength I suppose ) , 37 year's old and still doing fine.

I'm pretty sure my cockpit floor is oak too. Probably same age.

 

[jimmynoboat]

I agree with Solent Boy....
No problem usually with oak but it doesn't take a finish easily for external use.
Leave it bare and you will have less problems with rot but it will take on a grey patina.

Thanks everyone, I'm quite surprised that it should be left bare but, it makes the job a lot easier so, that's what I'll do.

 

[Lakesailor]

I had rubbing strakes with the grey patina and used Danish Oil on them, which brought back the colour to the wood.
It would need recoating (a rub over with an oiled cloth) every 3 months.

 

[Quandary]

Thanks everyone, I'm quite surprised that it should be left bare but, it makes the job a lot easier so, that's what I'll do.

It will still go black where it is in contact with the grp (around the edges) as it can not dry out fully there. It may be possible to fully bed the slats on durable impervious bedding but use plenty of tape to mask the areas in between or it can finish up as a mess. The best solution is to let air right round it but this means using counter battens to raise it enough; not very elegant, fine for floors but not for seats. Don't use brass screws as they will show black stains even through pellets.

 

[Lady Campanula]

Don't use brass screws as they will show black stains even through pellets.

What about the use of copper-bronze? Any experience of staining due to that?

A local maker/supplier of cedar shingles, which have similar staining problems, recommends stainless nails. Any knowledge i.r.o. boaty situations?

(Yeah, yeah! 'Shingles on the coachroof, not below the waterline.... )

 

[oldharry]

I just happen to have quite a lot of Oak in the garage that, with a little rounding of the edges, would do the job.

Anyone here know why I shouldn't do it?

Splinters in the bum! Make sure it is thoroughly finished and smoothed off....