Nylon composite deck hatch?

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rob2

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I wonder whether anyone can help identify my hatch? It look srather like an old Lewmar, but with inside handles one with a slot and the other a peg so they lock together. The frame appears to be made from nylon reinforced GRP, now rather silvery grey. The glazing seems to be fastened from below by small screw, so presumably has mastic between the glazing and the seat.

The boat was built in the Maldon area and most of the fittings were sourced from local suppliers, e.g. engine and sterngear from Fairways Marine. I realise a photo might help so I'd better start charging the batteries in the camera!

Rob.
 
Sounds like mine, too, and I couldn't work out maker either. One was cracked through frame and glazing (now replaced) and the other will be done before too long.
 
I had one of those on my Fulmar that was cracked all over.Trying to save the cost of a new hatch I stuck everything together with epoxy and glass and fitted a new perspex.After painting the repairs were invisible but a year or so later the cracks reappeared so I t was replaced.
 
dgadee said:
Sounds like mine, too, and I couldn't work out maker either. One was cracked through frame and glazing (now replaced) and the other will be done before too long.
Click to expand...
Hello, what kind of hatch did you use to replace your Canpa hatches? Was it a good fit?
 
LRequin said:
Hello, what kind of hatch did you use to replace your Canpa hatches? Was it a good fit?
Click to expand...
I used Lewmar. They were a fraction larger so not too difficult to use as replacements. Corners were different so had to use plenty of mastic. I just had to rebed the smaller hatch due to that a few months ago when a very small drip appeared - after over 10 years. Now fine.

The problem was inside. The headlining had to be altered.
 
Fairly easy to renovate the Canpa which i think was a pretty good product ,lasting as they have. A cheap step drill set from screwfix will give you the cut outs for the handles .Finish these and the radii edges with wet and dry.The small screws are really for location and (bed) height in the frame rather than security.If the frame shows slight distortion you can adjust the seal to suit by bedding it in sikaflex in its groove and lowering on to penny washers etc until it sets. .Well worth the price of the perspex .'Square' forehatch is 10mm and the smaller rectangular saloon will be 8mm.Bedding is black Arbo butyl strip ,edge sealant is black Arbosil 1081.I trimmed the latter nicely flush after it had gone off .In my case the internal grp lining is one of the neatest bits of the boat so I wouldn't wish to hack it about.
 
@bluerm166 Did you happen to replace the gasket on your canpa hatches? I found a pair of new ones but the gasket does not seem to compress. I think the material aged the same way as if it was fitted on a boat.
 
Sorry,away in France so cannot check my detail facts until 18th >.
A miracle to find 2 new hatches .
Meanwhile look at Seals Direct 'square skinned neoprene ' type.Believe they suggest 30% compression.
 
If it is still relevant for your Canpa hatches.
Had a look at mine today.
My seals ( a smaller rectangular cabin hatch and the large square focsle hatch) are both the square skinned neoprene variety 10mm nom x 10mm..
SEN197 | Expanded Neoprene (Skinned) 10mm x 10mm
The groove in the frame is 9.5 wx 7.5 mm deep.
. The cabin hatch seal is about 2mm proud.The larger is about 3mm proud ,where I bedded the seal in sikaflex to accommodate slight distortion in the frame or hatch.This killed the leaks we inherited when seas cover the bow.
You can depress these seals locally with a finger.
 
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