Non rust chocolate blocks

[doug748]

Can anyone suggest where I can buy some "chocolate block" electrical connectors, which are non-ferrous? Most are brass with plated steel screws; stainless screws would be nice.

The 'ole for the wire is c3mm so is this 3 amp?

I am aware that these are not always the best thing on a boat but they are what I need.

Thanks.

 

[David2452]

The devil's spawn, there are many "proper" solutions but if you must use them then brass ones are available here CLICK Probably still means taht you will have direct screw down onto the conductor which is a complete no no so put some bootlace ferrules on the strands first.
As for not always being the best thing on a boat, that depends on the material of the things and if bootlaces are used or they have "falling tabs" Certainly bog standard choc blocks have no place at all on a boat.

 

[philip_stevens]

Can anyone suggest where I can buy some "chocolate block" electrical connectors, which are non-ferrous? Most are brass with plated steel screws; stainless screws would be nice.

The 'ole for the wire is c3mm so is this 3 amp?

I am aware that these are not always the best thing on a boat but they are what I need.

Thanks.

I know you are after choc-block, but have you tried these?

They come in 2, 3, or 5 connectors

 

[Pagetslady]

I have bought stainless ones from ships chandlers , usually they have white plastic body and they cost loads more than the brass ones but they do not rust.
Mike

 

[doug748]

Philip
Those look very nifty. I do suspect that the guts might be plated steel though.

David
Thanks for the link. Can't see specific mention of the screw material. Have you used them?

 

[doug748]

I have bought stainless ones from ships chandlers , usually they have white plastic body and they cost loads more than the brass ones but they do not rust.
Mike

I will have a root around in the chandlers. In the past I have bought them and they have been the bog standard item. I must shop with more care, thanks for that.

 

[rivonia]

Look why not just give em a light spray with WD60 or 40.

Peter

 

[Rivers & creeks]

The devil's spawn, there are many "proper" solutions but if you must use them then brass ones are available here CLICK Probably still means taht you will have direct screw down onto the conductor which is a complete no no so put some bootlace ferrules on the strands first.
As for not always being the best thing on a boat, that depends on the material of the things and if bootlaces are used or they have "falling tabs" Certainly bog standard choc blocks have no place at all on a boat.

What would your top two recommendations be for small to medium sized 12v joining? Seems I need to replace some choc boxes

 

[SHUG]

For fine wire the ones with a "tang"inside ( a strip of metal which presses down on the wire) are best.
Unfortunately I don't know a source but would be interested if someone knows one.

 

[David2452]

What would your top two recommendations be for small to medium sized 12v joining? Seems I need to replace some choc boxes

If it needs to be demountrable then these

If a permenant connection is needed, then Adhesive lined heatshrink but crimps.

 

[Rivers & creeks]

If it needs to be demountrable then thesethese

Those superseal connectors look brilliant - how about for permanent connection?

Thanks BTW!

 

[David2452]

David
Thanks for the link. Can't see specific mention of the screw material. Have you used them?

They are all brass and I have used them but not on a boat.

 

[David2452]

Those superseal connectors look brilliant - how about for permanent connection?

Thanks BTW!

Heat shrink butt connectors

 

[lynall]

The trucks at work have the superseal as std, we also use the heatshrink all the time even in direct wheel spray, they last well, the superseal really need a little vaseline or electrical grease and if used they are almost 100 percent reliable.
Choco blocks are a temp repair get you home job, or a means of testing before wiring it all up properly.


Lynall

 

[David2452]

The trucks at work have the superseal as std, we also use the heatshrink all the time even in direct wheel spray, they last well, the superseal really need a little vaseline or electrical grease and if used they are almost 100 percent reliable.
Choco blocks are a temp repair get you home job, or a means of testing before wiring it all up properly.


Lynall

They really are good aren't they, the only thing better in my view are Deutsch but at a very much higher cost and the tools for them really make you cringe, i.e. tube crimp tool at over £200

 

[Rivers & creeks]

They really are good aren't they, the only thing better in my view are Deutsch but at a very much higher cost and the tools for them really make you cringe, i.e. tube crimp tool at over £200

Thanks for both of those.

 

[philip_stevens]

Philip
Those look very nifty. I do suspect that the guts might be plated steel though.

The Wago site states that "CAGE CLAMP® technology ensures connections will be corrosion- and vibration-resistant,"

I would think the contacts are stainless steel.

We use them on ships, in IP66 Wiska waterproof connection boxes. In fact, all the mast connections on the Isles of Scilly vessel Lyonesse Lady are with the Wago connectors in IP66 Wiska boxes.

 

[cliff]

I know you are after choc-block, but have you tried these?

They come in 2, 3, or 5 connectors

Product Information
TERMINAL BLOCK, W/LEVER, 5COND, 4MM²
Connector Mounting: Cable
Connector Type: Terminal Block
No. of Contacts: 5
SVHC: No SVHC (19-Dec-2011)
Wire Size (AWG): 28AWG to 12AWG
Contact Material: Steel
Current Rating: 32A
External Depth: 20.5mm
External Length / Height: 14.5mm
External Width: 26.6mm
Wire Area Size Max: 4mm²
Wire Area Size Min: 0.08mm²
Wire Size AWG Max: 12AWG
Wire Size AWG Min: 28AWG

Rust, rust, rust, rust. all together now.... Rust, rust, rust, rust.

 

[Enya]

I know you are after choc-block, but have you tried these?

They come in 2, 3, or 5 connectors

These look interesting but how do they work? Where does the wire go in and out?

 

[john_morris_uk]

I have bought stainless ones from ships chandlers , usually they have white plastic body and they cost loads more than the brass ones but they do not rust.
Mike

I agree - they are available, but properly crimped connectors are better.

For fine wire the ones with a "tang"inside ( a strip of metal which presses down on the wire) are best.
Unfortunately I don't know a source but would be interested if someone knows one.

The ones I have used (when pushed) have had the tang inside. They are stainless - or plated brass and don't corrode.

Better option would be crimped with the special marine connectors that have heatshrink stuff on them that seals onto the insulation of the wire where it enters the crimp connector? (Do the crimp and then heat with a hot air gun etc to shrink the seal onto the wire.)

If you haven't got a proper crimping tool, you might get away with soldering and heat shrink over the top? The problem is that you get a 'hard' point where the solder stops and the wire starts and the wire can eventually fracture at this point. Hopefully the heat shrink supplies enough support, but its not the optimal solution.