Non Boaty Linsead Oil Question

Adrian

Adrian

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 Jun 2001
Messages
841
Location
Me Midlands, Boat Port Grimaud SOF
www.kydproducts.co.uk
I know this isn't a boating issue but I’m sure someone will have the answer.

I just fitted a new kitchen (not bad for a amateur DIYer) I have (following the manufacturers instructions) oiled the work tops with boiled linseed oil. Where the oil hasn't soaked in I’m left with a tacky "crust", any idea how to get this off? I’m reluctant to use anything like Turps in case it stains the wood. I’ve tried a fine sandpaper but it just clogs straight away.
Is there an easy way, I’ve already spent too much time (and money) on the whole project.




<hr width=100% size=1>Adrian
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.kydproducts.co.uk>http://www.kydproducts.co.uk</A>
 
We used Teak Oil - works well - put on and leave overnight, redo at about 2/3 month intervals. This was on old teak & mahogany though, you don't say what the wood is.
We put it on then wipe off any excess after a few minutes.

<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... :-) /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
 
G'day Adrian,

Try a little fine steel wool, then wipe clean with a tack cloth and re apply more oil, wipe off any excess.

Hope this helps.......



<hr width=100% size=1>Andavagoodweekend, Old Salt Oz /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
 
right
i use some stuff the guy who sold me my beech gave me.
it has a sort of handwritten label on it which i have never read. the tin was already open. but the stuff works our is three years old and looks great still.

i replace it every 4 months. Fine sand off what is on and take back as much as possible then apply this oil with a lint free cloth. takes max three hours to dry in a warm kitchen. i have about 1.5m square of the stuff. biggest job ismoving all the junk sat ontop.

i will have a look what my tin says it is. i am certain it is linseed based. It sounds like you have applied too much. i was told to put a little on the cloth and spread it in long strkes with the grain. too thick and it does not acheive the shine but dries with a tacky looking finish.


it dries to a hard not too shiny sheen. it does degrade with water and you have to renew it or the wood starts going black underneath.

i have never had the crud layer you mentioned although it does crud up v fine sandpaper but not too quickly to my mind. fine wire wool would work just as well. if in doubt just be brtual use a coarse sandpaper on a palmsander take it all off and then fine finish wipe with meths and start again. cannot imagine turps will discolour it.



<hr width=100% size=1><font color=red>Have you seen the flippin forecast!</font color=red>
 
Try Meths. It may smell and will evaporate quite quickly so repeated gentle goes might be needed. The danger is spreading the linseed goo as you soften it.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
I use boiled linseed oil on my gun stocks. They're walnut but the methos is basically the same. The tacky stuff is pockets of resin where the wood hasn't been seasoned properly. Your timber is more than likely kiln dried.

On the sticky patches use a bit of white spirit with fine wire wool. Rub gently though. Then its of to the local rifle maker/gun room for a little bottle of Birchwood Casey stock conditioner. Follow the directions on the bottle, a little goes a long way so use sparingly. Buff up the finished area with a cloth and them reapply the boiled linseed oil. Good tip is to get your linseed oil from your local art shop. Its a better quality than from the DIY stores.

<hr width=100% size=1>
captain.gif
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top