Has anyone experience of fitting Noise Insulation material? There are Self-Adhesive versions available do these work? Any advise on making a neat job of cutting the material to shape?
I have used Vetus self adesive foam on top of 2mm sheet lead.The result is impressive if heavy.After trying several methods I found out that sheet metal shears will give a clean cut on the foam.providing they're sharp of course.
Just fitted out our engine compartment with Quietlife soundproofing. Very easy to cut (we found a saw was best if messy!) and fixed using either provided (at extra cost!) large plastic washer type fixings or Evostick contact adhesive.
Our engine bay is a bit tight in places and the contact adhesive allows no movement once fixed so the washer type fixing was very convenient for this as it allowed the material to be slid into position then fixed where possible to get a screwdriver. As the material is quite stiff this seems quite sufficient.
The insulation material is very heavy and seems good quality but haven't had engine running yet to say if its any quieter but the old insulation we had wasn't fireproof so needed replacing.
1. Get cardbooard boxes from s/market and cut to exact size wanted. Lay over s/proofing material and cut with sharp Stanley knife.
2. Halyard produce s/proofing in different grades. Not cheap but effective and value improving. Do not use anything that looks like eggcrate - it does not work, as we all know! Effective s/proofing must have a substantial layer of heavy density flexible material suspended within foam to absorb noise. Modern material has to have fire retardent facing - usually looks like alufoil. Glue into place with rubber-based DIY glue, and add suitable ss screws with washers at intervals to support large or roofing panels.
3. Use enough fixings to ensure no panels can become detached and wrap themselves in moving machinery!!!
Sound insulation material is a waste of money unless you can completely enclose the area with it: the slightest gap will let out inordinate amounts of noise and negate the value of the expensive material you have fitted elsewhere. Any air ducts must be properly baffled and fully lined on all surfaces with insulating material: you should not be able to see through any duct. Same applies to any holes for cables, harnesses etc. Unless you can do the job properly the end result rarely reflects the costs.
Have a word with Peter Furby of 3M. The company launched a new product last year called Thinsulate which, from the Southampton University reports, is an excellent sound barrier, superior to lead products.
The saw was a simple wood saw - when using a knife I had difficulty cutting through the stiff part of the sandwiched material (apparently a lead loaded polymetric barrier whatever that means) and the saw worked best but like I say the foam dust from cutting gets everywhere!
The plastic washers are made by the same people as the sound insulation. I got it all from ASAP supplies.
I have no connection with them but have ordered quite a bit from them in the past and they have always been helpful. Their website is <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.asap-supplies.com>http://www.asap-supplies.com</A>