No Anode!

T_S

T_S

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My recent acquisition had a new Nanni 10hp installed about 4 years ago but no anode fitted. Luckily the engine is like brand new and has only probably run a few hours.

This only come to light recently when I removed a bronze stop cock which was siezed, corroded and turning a little pink where it passed through the hull.

After a chat to my good friend JD on the phone he pointed out that there was something amiss, which was an anode problem!

I then realised I hadn't noticed an anode fitted to the hull and sure enough there's not! So the Question is: on a 26' GRP hull what size and where would be the best place to fit one?

Your advice please.......
 
Couple of these on the shaft will be sufficient Dave.... www.zincsmart.com (cheap and effective)

1" shaft = £10.84 each

smallshaft.jpg


This year on Full Circle, I am also fitting a 2.4kg pear anode to the hull

£17.75



ht1s.jpg



Check your engine manual to see if there is an internal pencil anode required.....


Now can we finish with anodes and get the thing in the water?
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Wotcha JD ..... been talking to that sparks boffin mate of mine who owns Aztec. He has been saying pretty much the same as you. Mike has very little in the way of Zink bolted to his boat and doesn't really go along with wiring up all the S/C's either!

Don't go worrying yourself m8.........boat is on track for it's swim across the mud flats........Anode thingy was just a job for when she comes out this side for anti fouling.


P.S I reckon about 3 trips down the A2 should be enough to put TP in the drink.
 
[ QUOTE ]
1kg M G Duff model ZD56 (assuming you are in seawater), through hull, internally bonded to P bracket, engine and engine seacock. Install as close as possible to P bracket.

[/ QUOTE ]

Agree with the p-bracket (and rudder stock/tube?) However lots of people (including me) don't bother to bond good quality bronze sea cocks to the cathodic protection. I have got 11 sea cocks and they all sit very happily not connected to anything. The engine one is isolated by its rubber pipe to the engine so why make a special case for it?

I don't bond my particular engine either as its got special electrical isolating gaskets between the gearbox and the shaft. This means that I have to put shaft and propellor anodes on separately.

And as a final note for wooden boat owners reading this thread. Be very careful about putting anodes on a wooden boat. It can be more trouble than its worth.
 
It is not possible to protect an engine from corrosion by fitting an external anode. You are asking the electrons to turn several right-angle bends, up a flexible pipe, through a water pump and its impeller and back into the engine, all through a medium that is not the world's greatest conductor. They just won't do it!
 
No - electrons are lazy gits ... they spend all day buzzing around a nucleus and only move off if there is something more attractive within sight ... /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
Yes I understand where you are coming from......bit like the cracked distributor cap syndrome. Rather than jump across from the rotor arm to a segment....then through a length of HT lead, down a plug and finally jump across an air gap.

Has to be easier to plunge through that damm crack! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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