Dave Levett
New Member
Here are a few pictures I currently have of the engine......
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- Thread starter Dave Levett
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talltim
Well-Known Member
Could be worth trying some fresh fuel if shes been sitting for any length of time
Dave Levett
New Member
Can anyone identify which engine this is as to enable me to purchase a manual for it please?
Spi D
...
The link given previously and your engine no. would tell 
Guess you didn't click on it, eh?
This FREE manual should cover it (multi engine manual)
http://vppneuapps.volvo.com/ww/PIE/...403&d=Owners Publication&s=2388345&lang=sv-SE
The AQ211 was 210 hp - when new. Specs. on manual pg. 17+18.
Guess you didn't click on it, eh?
This FREE manual should cover it (multi engine manual)
http://vppneuapps.volvo.com/ww/PIE/...403&d=Owners Publication&s=2388345&lang=sv-SE
The AQ211 was 210 hp - when new. Specs. on manual pg. 17+18.
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Dave Levett
New Member
Spi D, really appreciate the link (I was struggling to find the engine number due to the darker evenings), but the FREE download is spot on so thanks again.
Dave Levett
New Member
Please forgive my ignorance, but my throttle/direction lever arrears to have a bit missing. There is a trigger enderneath the verical part ( at the top of the lever) but it looks like there should have been a switch or something in the end of the same bit... What does this part do?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Spi D
...
Without pics this is going to be an assumption - remote boxes are different.
On one-lever remotes there often is a locking button that must be pressed to engange gears (fwd or rwd). In the locked mid position it is en neutral. There also is a button to disengage the gear cable, in order to operate throttle without engaging gears.
Somewhere on the lever there can be an electric switch for operating power trim/tilt (if sterndrive fitted).
On some remote boxes there may be other switches for eg. choke - or a friction screw to adjust resistance in lever movement.
Very many boxes are Morse Teleflex (commonly rebranded) and user manuals fairly easy to find
Edit: The manual you downloaded shows this on the first 4 pages (you may have a different remote box, but function would be the same)
On one-lever remotes there often is a locking button that must be pressed to engange gears (fwd or rwd). In the locked mid position it is en neutral. There also is a button to disengage the gear cable, in order to operate throttle without engaging gears.
Somewhere on the lever there can be an electric switch for operating power trim/tilt (if sterndrive fitted).
On some remote boxes there may be other switches for eg. choke - or a friction screw to adjust resistance in lever movement.
Very many boxes are Morse Teleflex (commonly rebranded) and user manuals fairly easy to find
Edit: The manual you downloaded shows this on the first 4 pages (you may have a different remote box, but function would be the same)
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Dave Levett
New Member
Well, I had the engine running again on Wednesday, only for it to cut out after about 3 minutes, then refusing to start again. I'm thinking next step is to remove the carb and give that a check/overhaul. Can anybody recommend a place to purchase the overhaul/gasket sets?
Spi D
...
No suggestion, but if it does that consistently also check the fuel supply (pump). Sounds like it runs until the carb reservoir is drained.
rosssavage
Well-Known Member
Fuel would be a good bet, but I had a similar fault on an AQ150 - turned out to be a duff condenser in the ignition. Would start and run for a few mins, then cut out and refuse to start. Leave for a while (talking an hour or so) and get the same start then stop.
Took me ages chasing fuel pumps, lines and filters to finally discover it was the condenser. Less than £10 to buy, 15 mins to fit. Peasy
Took me ages chasing fuel pumps, lines and filters to finally discover it was the condenser. Less than £10 to buy, 15 mins to fit. Peasy
Spi D
...
Fuel would be a good bet, but I had a similar fault on an AQ150 - turned out to be a duff condenser in the ignition. Would start and run for a few mins, then cut out and refuse to start. Leave for a while (talking an hour or so) and get the same start then stop.
Took me ages chasing fuel pumps, lines and filters to finally discover it was the condenser. Less than £10 to buy, 15 mins to fit. Peasy
Indeed possible. Condensers tend to react to temperature so after working a while the internally decide to take a break.
Vitesse
Well-Known Member
Is there an ignition coil? They can also fail when warm. Should be a cheap(ish) part...
AndieMac
Well-Known Member
Good comments SM, many folks understand the cold start procedure, but struggle with the often frustrating warm start. You do need to be quick to back off the throttle though
Dave Levett
New Member
Ignition coil is brand new, as are the leads..... The rotor arm looks to have had a bodge repair (some electicians tape to stop one of the small magnets from falling out) so i'll replace that for sure.
Dave Levett
New Member
Well i had her running again on sunday, she ran for about 10 minutes before deciding to stop! One thing i have noticed is a strong smell of fuel after she decides to cut out, with a fair bit of visible fume coming from the breather tubes, close to where they attatch to the air filter/flame arrestor? Any help appreciated as always.
Vitesse
Well-Known Member
Your engine oil doesn't smell of fuel, does it?
No Regrets
Well-Known Member
Good point!
If the boat is new to you, you would be best off:
1/ Change oil and filter. Monitor level (If it increases, you could have a fuel leak into the engine while moored!!)
2/ Change plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap and leads. They will last a few years, but best known to be good right now!
3/ Ensure timing is correct for unleaded fuel.
4/ Get carb checked, and importantly ALL fuel lines!!
5/ Before you turn ignition on, run that bilge blower for 5 mins, and keep it on when running the engine. The results of a fuel leak could kill people.
Oh, and check the cooling system is 100%, the engine shouldn't get too hot unless you're running it really hard.
If the boat is new to you, you would be best off:
1/ Change oil and filter. Monitor level (If it increases, you could have a fuel leak into the engine while moored!!)
2/ Change plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap and leads. They will last a few years, but best known to be good right now!
3/ Ensure timing is correct for unleaded fuel.
4/ Get carb checked, and importantly ALL fuel lines!!
5/ Before you turn ignition on, run that bilge blower for 5 mins, and keep it on when running the engine. The results of a fuel leak could kill people.
Oh, and check the cooling system is 100%, the engine shouldn't get too hot unless you're running it really hard.
Spi D
...
Well i had her running again on sunday, she ran for about 10 minutes before deciding to stop! One thing i have noticed is a strong smell of fuel after she decides to cut out, with a fair bit of visible fume coming from the breather tubes, close to where they attatch to the air filter/flame arrestor? Any help appreciated as always.
The smell suggests rich running so a carb check including float height and valve operation is in scope. Although seemingly so, the fuel fumes most likely does not come from the breather hose.
superheat6k
Well-Known Member
If you provide a list of your equipment I am sure plenty of folk on here will have the manuals you need. I have loads and share them freely with anyone who needs info, I just ask that a donation be made to the RNLI or Hamble Lifeboat.
Dave Levett
New Member
Many thanks for all your replies, agree about safety, definitely no visible leaks from any of the fuel lines. I seem to think the motor is running too rich, as it seems fine until it warms up enough to come off choke. I did adjust the float in the carb to the required 'height', so i may have got something wrong with the carb when i've reassembled it? I did get a little confused when re attaching the various control arms etc. does anyone have a good diagram of which go where?