New tiller pilot -raymarine or simrad

[mjcoon]

Maybe this is salvageable, I am back on the boat. Opened it up and there are broken components on the board. Capacitors c114 and c15 are in bits. The rest looks ok, I assume the power transformer is tr4 and tr7.

I can't read the circuit diagrams online so will take the whole lot back home.

I can read the ST1000/2000 diagram as posted bit by bit by zooming. (And I have rather lost who is talking about which kit!)

But the "TR" are transistors not transformers; very different beasts. I doubt there is much call for transformers in this DC device. The power transistor circuits are distinguished by heavy lines in the circuit diagram, as it says "high current paths", and are TR15, TR18, TR19 and TR21. They are probably the "four FET drive transistors" mentioned in section 3.8. And are shown in a block of four on the "conventional component side" PCB diagram.

Mike.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Interesting, who is BruceDanforth? How do I know which one to change and what one to buy. Is it something maplins sell.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/member.php?6736-BruceDanforth

 

[mjcoon]

This photo shows the board, not sure how I can tell what values the capacitors should be. Are the power transformers the large metal things at the edge of the board?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/75351251@N03/14107755216/lightbox/

The "metal things" are I think heat sinks bolted to the transistors to stop them getting too hot. They do seem rather too close to what I suppose is the casing to have good air circulation, especially if that is a cable running next to one of them.

Yes, tricky to tell the capacity, voltage etc. of destroyed capacitors without recourse to an intact board or the circuit diagram! And there is always the problem that other components may be dodgy, possibly even having caused the mayhem, without looking broken.

(And now I see that this is not the ST1000/2000...)

Mike.

 

[prv]

Suggest you go for the ST 2000 as your boat's displacement is just above the limit for the 1000.

+lots

Kindred Spirit was within spec for the ST1000, but when replacing the one that came with her and went a bit dodgy I chose the ST2000 and was glad I had. As well as being more powerful it is also faster, which meant it could stay in control in conditions where the lesser model was half a wave behind and making things worse.

That said, they're all a bit plasticky compared to the proper below-decks drive, like what I've just fitted on Ariam. George really has some muscle now.

Pete

 

[SteveSarabande]

I think I caused some confusion here, I was looking for advice on the st2000. Now I am looking for a circuit diagram or component info for the autohelm1000

I am going to get an st2000, but if the auto helm is fixable it will get more on ebay

 

[alahol2]

Thanks very much for that. I don't suppose you have one for the TP32?

Don't know if this will cover it... http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/01%20TP10-20.pdf

 

[vyv_cox]

Don't know if this will cover it... http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/01%20TP10-20.pdf

Thanks a lot for that. Hope we'll never need it but it will surely be valuable if we do.

 

[STATUE]

I bought the smallest Raymarine tiller pilot which looked everso good and sophisticated, plugged it into power socket in cockpit - nothing - tried everything - nothing.

Took it back and got a Simrad TP10, worked first time.

I am sure you are aware that the positioning of the 'fulcrum' cup is critical (that's my 'knowing' term for it - you know that little brass/Stainless verticle tube into which you slot the tiller pilot) in its relation to the fixing on the tiller.

The previous owner of the boat said the old tiller pilot didn't work very well - no doubt he was correct as things were not lined up.

Regards.