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I stripped a Vetus/Kubota after it hydraulic locked. Only about 15hrs use. Fairly easy little engine. We got away with a new conrod and gaskets. First rod to arrive had the little end too small, an unwelcome delay. The water had got in from the boat rolling in a gale at anchor. Only one cylinder, it would run(!) on the other with the bent rod knocking the crankcase.
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If you buy new it is unlikely that you will ever have to take it apart in normal use. The only negative you seem to hear is about making sure the anode in the heat exchanger is checked regularly. Hand starting capability is I think a bit overrated. I have only once managed to start my Yanmar by hand. If you have a dedicated engine start battery such as a Red Flash or Odyssey which are very small and can be mounted anywhere plus a separate service battery with a split charge VSR and proper isolation and parallel facility you should never be in a position where you dont have power to start the engine.

This of course adds some complication and cost, but to my mind if you are splashing out on a new engine it makes sense to have all the right ancillary gear.
 
Yes I would be using a good gel battery for the starting and seperate liesure for domestic supply. I would probably fit a solar trickle charger maybe even a small wind generator too at some stage. How about my prop though I would say for manouvering round a marina the 2 blade folding job that is fitted is ok but get me out of trouble? I know from looking about you can spend a few sovs on this too Maybe I could fit a second hand outboard prop on the shaft anyone messed around with different props before?
 
Both Beta, Nanni and Vetus use a Kubota industrial engine as the base for their conversions. Haven't checked any prices but I would assume that economies of scale would make for cheaper engine parts; that wouldn't apply to the mariniser's parts of course. A friend reports that her Beta purred away for days on end while flogging around out in the Atlantic
 
Instead of silly legislation about drinking, brake lights for yachts (!), filing passage plans , why not do something useful like say : If it is a MARINE engine, there has to be some method of starting it other than with electricity. Absolutely bonkers to be totally dependent on a working battery and starter motor, in my opinion.
Having said all that, those little Yanmars are very nice.

My first boat had a 400lb Sabb diesle though, as old as the hills, and perhaps 150 lb of that weight was in the flywheel? Of course, firing it up in the depths of winter was a doddle, just a matter of winding it up to speed on the handle and knocking off the decompressor , bingo 9 times out of 10.. The 10th time you started to get a bit warm..
 
Highly unlikely your existing prop or shaft will be suitable. The prop will probably be too small. If you do buy a new installation you will have to get all the bits to match it to your boat. Your supplier will work out the appropriate gearbox ratio and prop size for you based on key information about your boat.
 
Thats interesting Tranona, does anyone know what they work to is there a simple guide or formula they use maybe an online resource/ chart that the lay boatman could understad with out too much of the old rocket science and algebra??? as my internals are completely ripped out at the moment any re-tinkering with stern tubes etc. would be good now. You see the old setup was for racing, ie. everything to the minimum for the obviouse weight saving reasons so to convert to a safe and useful weekend cruiser with a decent engine backup for getting the family in safe may require some strengthening here and there, shaft diameter for example.
 
There is a formula for calculating shaft size, but can't lay my hands on it at the moment. 3/4 inch is OK for a 1GM. Production boats such as the Spring 25 used it. Think it will have to be stainless rather than bronze, which is what you may have now. 1 inch or 25mm is the most common size for engines up to about 20hp, and you would have to check with Beta if your 3/4 would be OK for one of their engines. Depending on your sterngear, going up a size could be a big job. For Propeller size and type I use Propcalc from www.castlemarine.co.uk which gives a guide. In practice I would get the supplier to recommend size so there is some come back if it is not right, but getting your own estimate is useful.

There are a number of books published on re-engining - have a look in the Kelvin Hughes catalogue.
 
Book I was thinking of is "How to install a new Diesel" by Peter Cumberlidge. Probably good investment for you at £11.99
 
I did the prop calc program thats a good bit of software thanks for that looks like I need a 11.71" 3 blade jobbie thats and a pitch of 8.51 but I would guess one goes to the nearest common size in these cases?? I noticed an ad. for a folding 3 blader for £160. so I will be getting good second hander to start with I recon.
 
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I don't think I would gain anything with more power and the Yanmars are it seems the only engines of this kind of size actually designed as marine engines, the alternatives are conversions of other types.

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I suspect that is marketing blather; yanmar make vast quantities of small industrial diesels just like Kubota. Are they really going to design something specially if they are only shifting a few thousand units per annum? I wouldn't, and even I if wanted to some beancounter would tell me that 'the computer says no'. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
 
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