thinwater
Well-Known Member
As a matter if clarity, Dyneema is still in there for multihulls and inshore.
New Lifelines (Guard Rails)
- Thread starter daverebbettes
- Start date
As a matter if clarity, Dyneema is still in there for multihulls and inshore.
thinwater
Well-Known Member
There was also at least one incident where the combination of rail meat and burrs in stanchion holes chewed through the line.
GHA
Well-Known Member
Maybe not a sheet - top tip - save any interesting thread links into evernote, then you can find them again
From Evans Starzinger - http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2150590#post2150590
An interesting test would be a loaded sheet moving across D12 max for a few days, after watching how chafe resistant it is as part of mooring warps I'd guess it would last well.(And why would a loaded sheet be able to touch lifelines anyway?)
Red Panda
Well-Known Member
I've recently replaced my lifelines with the kit from Deacon's / Force4. They'll make it up to your specs, so I've got a fixed fork at the bow end, and a Sta-lok at the stern. I'm not sure any sort of swaged fitting, even the ones that screw apart, would have fitted through the holes in the stanchions - and I got to trim it to exactly the length I wanted.
Neeves
Well-Known Member
Good stuff GHA!
When we raced, in RORC races - all of our sheets were dyneema (and lifelines wire) we did cut the outer cover - but never through the dyneema. In posing your final 'interesting test' (with which I agree) it would also be useful to test for dyneema on dyneema.
When the pole is just off the forestay its easy to have the guy rubbing on the lifelines - and this might be for hours. On a tight reach with the genoa sheeted from outside the lifelines and using the free runner winch - the sheet could rub on the lifelines.
Jonathan
When we raced, in RORC races - all of our sheets were dyneema (and lifelines wire) we did cut the outer cover - but never through the dyneema. In posing your final 'interesting test' (with which I agree) it would also be useful to test for dyneema on dyneema.
When the pole is just off the forestay its easy to have the guy rubbing on the lifelines - and this might be for hours. On a tight reach with the genoa sheeted from outside the lifelines and using the free runner winch - the sheet could rub on the lifelines.
Jonathan
lw395
Well-Known Member
Fairly common for the mainsheet to rub on the lifelines too.
GHA
Well-Known Member
Would drive me nuts!
On offshore passages it became second nature to go round the rig and spot the slightest bit of chafe several times a day, otherwise it *will* chafe and break...
daverebbettes
Well-Known Member
Thankyou everyone for your helpful and considered comments.
I went for dyneema in the end, I don't think that chafe will be a major issue for me and the way I am set up. Will keep an eye on it. All went together well, dyneema very very simple to splice in a loop. Fixed with D shackles and slack taken up with 3mm line. All seems very tight and sea worthy.
I went for dyneema in the end, I don't think that chafe will be a major issue for me and the way I am set up. Will keep an eye on it. All went together well, dyneema very very simple to splice in a loop. Fixed with D shackles and slack taken up with 3mm line. All seems very tight and sea worthy.
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GHA
Well-Known Member
Looks great! :encouragement:
And now you can make up a few soft shackles with the offcuts
greeny
Well-Known Member
Looking good. May be worth considering mousing the shackles though, one less thing to come loose. Will probably be doing mine this year.
daverebbettes
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Only had wire. Didn’t want to use this close to sails so will get hold of some plastic zip ties. Well spotted btw.
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Neeves
Well-Known Member
Would drive me nuts!
On offshore passages it became second nature to go round the rig and spot the slightest bit of chafe several times a day, otherwise it *will* chafe and break...
Now that we 'cruise' and do not 'race' - and if you race you do so to win - we entirely agree with your thinking. Then the idea was to engender performance, only half a toothbrush being the ultimate weight saving, not to save disposable sheets. We carried it to extremes and had 2mm Kevlar spinnaker sheets, to ensure the spinnaker filled in very light winds. Seems daft now, seemed reasonable at the time - and in the unlikely event we went back to racing - I sadly suggest we would do the same as we did then!
But we do have a rather nice collection of engraved Dartington (?) glass.
Jonathan
thinwater
Well-Known Member
Obviously, a racing rule is just that: follow it, or don't. That said...
* You can always go oversize.
* I bet not even Comanche would have burned through New England Ropes WR2. I v'e done chafe testing on the stuff across sharp steel edges. It is amazing.
* Stainless wire probably is the best value in terms of $$/year. Just because Amsteel is strong and cheap does not make it best for everything. Just a LOT of things.
* You can always go oversize.
* I bet not even Comanche would have burned through New England Ropes WR2. I v'e done chafe testing on the stuff across sharp steel edges. It is amazing.
* Stainless wire probably is the best value in terms of $$/year. Just because Amsteel is strong and cheap does not make it best for everything. Just a LOT of things.
billcowan
Well-Known Member
Parafil all plastic safety line is the dogs balls, nice and soft and being thicker than ss nicer to hold onto.
No crevice corrosion or cover peeling/flaking issues. although you should check your stancheon holes for burs.
RNLI use it on lifeboats I understand.
It is quite cheap, but the fittings for the ends are very expensive, my solution was to make eyes at the ends with ss thimbles (you need to boil it to make it soft) the turnback needs to be at least 3" and whip it tightly with 2mm cord. (in the Med this needs protected from UV with amalgamating tape) The forard end attaches to the pulpit with little shackles and the aft end which you have to do after threading through the stancheons, secured with a 6" lashing of 3mm cord. all very simple. It has lasted 10 years so far.
No crevice corrosion or cover peeling/flaking issues. although you should check your stancheon holes for burs.
RNLI use it on lifeboats I understand.
It is quite cheap, but the fittings for the ends are very expensive, my solution was to make eyes at the ends with ss thimbles (you need to boil it to make it soft) the turnback needs to be at least 3" and whip it tightly with 2mm cord. (in the Med this needs protected from UV with amalgamating tape) The forard end attaches to the pulpit with little shackles and the aft end which you have to do after threading through the stancheons, secured with a 6" lashing of 3mm cord. all very simple. It has lasted 10 years so far.
Bobc
Well-Known Member
Had never heard of it until you posted this, but certainly looks like the dog's danglies. Will look into this further, thanks.
Mikedefieslife
Well-Known Member
You splice one end, but then what do you do with the other to get tension?
Robert Wilson
Well-Known Member
daverebbettes
Well-Known Member
I spliced both ends, made the line 2-3 inches too short and tensioned with 3mm cord. Very quick and easy to re-tension every now and then. Don't need to keep removing the lifeline from the pushpit so didn't bother with pelicans, that are a bit expensive too.
rgarside
Well-Known Member
I spliced both ends with soft eyes. At the forward end I cow hitch the splice around the pulpit through the lifeline eye, the other soft eye can be pulled through the stanchion holes [mine have tube liners through the hole part way up the stanchion, and the top of the stanchion is solid, so they are not bad for chafe]. Having done that, at the aft end I cow hitch a stainless ring onto the soft eye and then use a lanyard through the ring to tension it to the pushpit lifeline eye.
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Slowtack
Well-Known Member
Billcowan............where do you source the parafil??