New LED lighting for heads

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Pinnacle

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The forward heads in our boat is right up in the now. The wc is centrally placed right at the forward end of the space and faces aft. There are mirror fronted cupboards on both sides of the space and I wish to install new led lighting above these mirrors. I have in mind a fitting of perhaps 8 to 12 inches in length.

Any suggestions ad to where I might be able to source something suitable?

Thanks.
 
I recently purchased a led strip meant for under kitchen units from Clas Ohlsen 12v and works a treat. Otherwise there are plenty of units that replace the older 300mm fluorescent tube units around.
 
A lot of mains units actually need 12v to run but come with a transformer/rectifier that can be discarded for use on a boat. I think previous threads have pointed to the likes of Lidl for cheap units when available.
 
A good result might be harder to achieve than you think, the danger is that reflected lights could be seen rather than a face.

Suggest you spend a day at a boat show with a covert tape measure to hand and nick an idea from a show boat.
 
Pinnacle said:
The forward heads in our boat is right up in the now. The wc is centrally placed right at the forward end of the space and faces aft. There are mirror fronted cupboards on both sides of the space and I wish to install new led lighting above these mirrors. I have in mind a fitting of perhaps 8 to 12 inches in length.

Any suggestions ad to where I might be able to source something suitable?
Click to expand...

http://www.boatlamps.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d122.html
 
theoldsalt said:
A lot of mains units actually need 12v to run but come with a transformer/rectifier that can be discarded for use on a boat. I think previous threads have pointed to the likes of Lidl for cheap units when available.
Click to expand...

I would caution against using LED lighting designed for use in the home. This is because the LEDs installed in shore based lighting products are designed to be used with an LED driver which outputs a fixed voltage of 12V. I don't think it is widely appreciated that damage will accrue to home lighting LEDs when used on a varying power supply as is normal on our boats. When charging batteries the engine alternator will produce 13.8V, at that voltage 50% more current will flow through a 12V resistor controlled lamp it gets worse if modern shore power is used. A modern smart battery charger which cycles batteries up to 16V when in equalisation mode will actually double the current flowing through the lamp, the outcome is fairly predictable.
 
Adrian Jones said:
I would caution against using LED lighting designed for use in the home. This is because the LEDs installed in shore based lighting products are designed to be used with an LED driver which outputs a fixed voltage of 12V. I don't think it is widely appreciated that damage will accrue to home lighting LEDs when used on a varying power supply as is normal on our boats. When charging batteries the engine alternator will produce 13.8V, at that voltage 50% more current will flow through a 12V resistor controlled lamp it gets worse if modern shore power is used. A modern smart battery charger which cycles batteries up to 16V when in equalisation mode will actually double the current flowing through the lamp, the outcome is fairly predictable.
Click to expand...

I accept that stabilised units are best but more expensive... however, I have fitted seven unregulated saloon lights and anchor and nav lights of different manufacturers and formats. My Sterling puts out 14v. My mains charger (Cetek knock-off) 15v

All working fine after two years, including five weeks living aboard nonstop this summer.
 
Adrian Jones said:
I would caution against using LED lighting designed for use in the home. This is because the LEDs installed in shore based lighting products are designed to be used with an LED driver which outputs a fixed voltage of 12V. I don't think it is widely appreciated that damage will accrue to home lighting LEDs when used on a varying power supply as is normal on our boats. When charging batteries the engine alternator will produce 13.8V, at that voltage 50% more current will flow through a 12V resistor controlled lamp it gets worse if modern shore power is used. A modern smart battery charger which cycles batteries up to 16V when in equalisation mode will actually double the current flowing through the lamp, the outcome is fairly predictable.
Click to expand...

Totally agree. Except where running a 24v system dropped down to a perfect 12v such as I have. Or some other regulated stable 12v, or indeed 24v.
 
mrplastic said:
I have fitted one of these above the door in our heads, works brilliantly!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131270368465
Click to expand...

I have these too. They are much nicer "in the flesh" than the ebay image. The body is aluminium despite the plasticky appearance. I only ever use them when the engine is off and the solar panels aren't doing much so they are probably not going to experience voltage extremes.

Could you fit a 12V regulator in the lighting circuit to protect them? It would surely be cheaper than buying individually regulated units.
 
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planteater said:
I have these too. They are much nicer "in the flesh" than the ebay image. The body is aluminium despite the plasticky appearance. I only ever use them when the engine is off and the solar panels aren't doing much so they are probably not going to experience voltage extremes.

Could you fit a 12V regulator in the lighting circuit to protect them? It would surely be cheaper than buying individually regulated units.
Click to expand...

We already have the shorter versions from the same seller as bed reading lights and I agree they are good. No issues with voltage on the three units so far. What I am not sure about us that ours throw down a narrow line of light and for the heads I really wanted something that will throw out the light in a much wider spread. Also, I would prefer cool white for the heads - don't think the seller has these in stock.
 
planteater said:
Could you fit a 12V regulator in the lighting circuit to protect them? It would surely be cheaper than buying individually regulated units.
Click to expand...
Dc buck boost regulators can be had off eBay for less than the cost of a beer. They won't factor in the temp of the leds but are a long way down the road of being nice to leds :) they can be a bit RF noisy as well but a capacitor each side should get rid of that.
 
Pinnacle said:
We already have the shorter versions from the same seller as bed reading lights and I agree they are good. No issues with voltage on the three units so far. What I am not sure about us that ours throw down a narrow line of light and for the heads I really wanted something that will throw out the light in a much wider spread. Also, I would prefer cool white for the heads - don't think the seller has these in stock.
Click to expand...

I don't see a narrow line of light, this illuminates the whole heads which is a decent size on the 331.
I have the cool white which works well, we do have white walls and ceiling which reflects a large amount
of light around the heads and transformed the whole feel especially at night. I have no issues with voltage at all.
 
NickRobinson said:
I accept that stabilised units are best but more expensive... however, I have fitted seven unregulated saloon lights and anchor and nav lights of different manufacturers and formats. My Sterling puts out 14v. My mains charger (Cetek knock-off) 15v

All working fine after two years, including five weeks living aboard nonstop this summer.
Click to expand...

I presume you are recommending using shore based LED equipment on boats.

If you have a simple DC ammeter available hook it up to the input to your fixture and measure the current when on battery only and again running each charger. You will see a significant increase in current and an increased light output from each lamp. If the current remains constant then you have a controller installed within the lamp/fixture.

Some motor vehicle LED lamps have resistors rated so that maximum rated current flows at 13.8V the down side is that the light output at 12V is significantly reduced.

If a LED is designed with resistors to control the current for maximum light output at 12V, as many domestic lighting products are, progressive damage will be occurring to the LED lamps. The point at which a lamp fails is dependent on the thermal heat sinking of individual LEDs mounted on lamps within their fixtures and the actual time periods of use, in the meantime light output of damaged lamps progressively reduces.

It is important to ensure that LED lamps are used in the manner that the lamp was designed for or boat owners take a risk. At least being aware of LED operating principles boat owners can make informed decisions. Chopping off a mains powered LED driver and simply connecting the associated lamp to a large variable voltage DC supply is not to be recommended.
 
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