New inverter/charger/alternator set up?

[howardclark]

Ok this is a relatively long winded one but here goes.
I have three battery banks Domestic- 3x 120 amp, Engine start 1x 100 amp and Bowthruster/ windlass 1 x 100 amp. All are AGM
I have a separate 3 bank mains charger
I have a 2k inverter.
I use a no loss VSR set up to charge from the alternator (120 amp)
The charger and inverter are 10+ years old but everything still works OK

The biggest problem I have is that getting to the charger and/or inverter is a real pain. Even turning the inverter on requires moving stuff.

in these days of bluetooth or remote displays I’m starting to think I should renew the kit and have remote panels or apps to control it.

Space is limited- I had to shoehorn all that to get a safe installation

I would love to find a 3 bank charger/inverter ie one box or to somehow combine the alternator output in a box of tricks.
or another way to condense the system?

any thoughts?

thanks in advance

 

[VicS]

With your VSRs you dont need a three output charger surely . Let the VSRs do it all

 

[Boater Sam]

I would stay with separate charger and inverter. I have lost count of how many combi units I have had to change because one function has failed and then neither will work and even the shore line will not work then either.
These things are non repairable in my experience because the makers will not release any service info at all.
You can get inverters with remotes, or chargers and inverters with Bluetooth but its just something else to go wrong.

 

[black mercury]

I had the same problem with the mains charger. Had to lift saloon cushion, then lift out the wooden base and fumble for the on/off switch whilst holding the cushion up with my head. I took the covers off the charger and removed the said on/off switch. I then extended the wires to the switch, out of the charger and fitted the switch on the outside of the saloon seat.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I also have 3 battery banks and a single charger I fitted a 3 position switch on the DC output of my charges so I can select which battery bank I wish to charge are any time

My inverter ahs a 200 Amp contactor (relay_ on the DC input so I can switch on or off the inverter without the need to get to the inverter.

The Charger switch means I also don't need to get to the charger

 

[howardclark]

I also have 3 battery banks and a single charger I fitted a 3 position switch on the DC output of my charges so I can select which battery bank I wish to charge are any time

My inverter ahs a 200 Amp contactor (relay_ on the DC input so I can switch on or off the inverter without the need to get to the inverter.

The Charger switch means I also don't need to get to the charger

interested in the relay/switch for the inverter- never thought of that- which one did you fit?

 

[howardclark]

With your VSRs you dont need a three output charger surely . Let the VSRs do it all

Never thought of doing that - no possible conflict with the alternator if both on together?

 

[PaulRainbow]

Never thought of doing that - no possible conflict with the alternator if both on together?

A pair of VSRs will, as Vic said, be fine, no conflict if the alternator and solar are charging at the same time.

 

[rogerthebodger]

interested in the relay/switch for the inverter- never thought of that- which one did you fit?

The battery charger switch is something like one of these

50 amp 4 position rotary swutcg - Google Suche

The relay for the nverter was a 12vdc coil but the contact current capacity was quite high being a 2.5Kva Inserter 2 pole Normally open contacts. The CD voltag rating need to be something like 50, 60 volts to have a switching gap to reduce the DC arcing.

My relay is something like 200Amp but I make sure the inverter is only turned on or off with no mains current is being drawn from the inverter to cut down contact arcing

 

[howardclark]

The battery charger switch is something like one of these

50 amp 4 position rotary swutcg - Google Suche

The relay for the nverter was a 12vdc coil but the contact current capacity was quite high being a 2.5Kva Inserter 2 pole Normally open contacts. The CD voltag rating need to be something like 50, 60 volts to have a switching gap to reduce the DC arcing.

My relay is something like 200Amp but I make sure the inverter is only turned on or off with no mains current is being drawn from the inverter to cut down contact arcing

Is there anything to stop me using a simple battery switch rated for 200A on the supply side of the inverter, rather than a relay?

 

[rogerthebodger]

Is there anything to stop me using a simple battery switch rated for 200A on the supply side of the inverter, rather than a relay?

No providing the cables to the inverter are short and the switch can be located in a convenient position.

My inverter is away from my navigation station and I wished to have the switch close to my nav station.

I also fitted a neon indicator close to my switch so I knew when the inverter was switched on.

 

[howardclark]

No providing the cables to the inverter are short and the switch can be located in a convenient position.

My inverter is away from my navigation station and I wished to have the switch close to my nav station.

I also fitted a neon indicator close to my switch so I knew when the inverter was switched on.

yes my cable total cable run is only 30cm or so and adding a switch will add very little- I can put an led on the 240v side too! That’s a plan!