? New engine

[sheppard]

I know that this is akin to asking how long is a piece of string but I would value comments from forum members.

Our 1980 Bukh DV20 engine died - it seemed to us very suddenly. It started first time and was working perfectly one day, it took a few moments to start on the next and the throttle seemed a bit sluggish, and the next morning it wouldn't start at all.

We had engineer out who told us that it was beyond repair, water had got in through the cooling system, the head gasket had gone, and there was corrosion and pitting on the head and in the cylinders. We spoke to a man from Bukh who said that he had never heard of a Bukh engine get that bad. This engine was serviced twice 12 months before and had not done very many hours since.

My problem is - should I buy a new engine. Possibly a Yanmar or Beta as they are cheaper than Bukh, or should I get my Bukh reconditioned?

 

[Evadne]

Not directly a reply, but hopefully helpful. My elderly (1983) Yanmar 1GM developed problems due to water getting in through the fuel inlet. This necessitated replacement or strip-down and repair of three major components, i.e. both pumps and the injector, plus skimming the head and remedial action to prevent it happening again, plus assorted relatively minor jobs. The remedial action would have happened if I'd replaced the engine with a new one anyway, the remainder came to 50% of the cost of a new engine. If I'd known before I started on the repair (done by a trusted professional) I'd have opted for the new engine.

If the engine has been reliable up to now, and renovation comes to 50% or less than the cost of a new one then get the repairs done. If skimming the head and re-sleeving the bore is more than that then I'd forget it.

 

[Metabarca]

I'm in exactly your situation with the same problem to my old one. I've opted for a new engine for a couple of reasons: the reconditioned old one was half the price of a new one installed, and would continue to be an old engine, albeit (one hopes) with a bit of life in it; secondly, I would have coughed up a lot of money and would still have a vibrating, noisy, leaky bit or iron below. Having said that, my engine was a Volvo (MD2B - a solid workhorse), not a Bukh...

 

[FullCircle]

Suggest you have second engineer to look at it as a sanity check to confirm the report of the first engineer, especially as Bukh are surprised at the extent of the supposed damage repair required. maybe Bukh can supply the name of a local engineer to assist?

 

[EASLOOP]

I would definately get a second opinion. I have a 1975ish DV10 and had problems last year. Very poor starting, had to use easistart all the time to get it to fire. Left engine in place for 3 months while boat out of water then took head off and had new valves, springs, seats and head skimmed. During the 3 months water that had gotten into the engine rusted the piston rings in the compressed state so that when i re-assembled the engine I had no compression!! Soaked the cylinder with engine oil inserted through the inlet valve and eventually got the rings free and the compression came back big time. I now turn it over for two compression strokes and it fires up. Easistart now put away out of sight.
I think Bukh are the best engines you can get. I have a line on a used DV20 (1985) that will give me the extra power I want. If I could afford it I would buy a new DV24 (Oh for a lottery win!!!)
Stay with it as you will no doubt find that that engine of yours will do more for you yet.

 

[Poignard]

I agree with Sherwater and Full Circle. Try and find an experienced engineer, [preferably one who doesn't sell new engines! ]

 

[mono]

[ QUOTE ]
...We spoke to a man from Bukh who said that he had never heard of a Bukh engine get that bad.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hmm..not so sure it's that uncommon. I had exactly the same problem with my Bukh 20. I had the engine lifted out of the boat and dismantled to explore the extent of the corrosion - which turned out to be pretty bad.

I could have had a rebuild for approximately £2,000 but I opted, instead, for a new Yanmar.

 

[Birdseye]

had a friend with a bukh engine who went the re-conditoning route. worked out at about two thirds the cost of brand new, had endless little problems since not everything was renovated, garauntee coverage wasnt as good, and in the end he still had a 20 year old,. engine when it came to selling his boat.

and engine design has moved on and improved since bukh

 

[mono]

This is the sort of thing that went through my mind when I made the decision to buy new. Particularly galling as I'd recently had the gearbox rebuilt!

 

[paul_williams]

you could try finding your local banger racing people. those guys, despite how they often appear, are mechanical geniuses when it comes to engines, and they'll know a guy who can rebuild it economically, if it required.

 

[actionoptics]

Just got back from a trip to The Scillies but on the way down, our Bukh DV 24 SME had exactly the same problem. Someone had jammed the two seals together in the water pump so we did not see they were leaking. The salt water ruined the engine - the cost of the new parts was only 20% less than a new engine. Had a new Bukh 24 fitted whilst we were stuck in the Yealm at Bridgend Quay. Can't blame Bukh and the new engine is a dream but I would like to meet the pillock who butchered the water pump. Now I realise the propellor is the wrong size - it is the original for when the boat had a Bukh 20.

 

[Mirelle]

Cheap and dirty solution, as practised by me...

Our Volvo MD2 died - a multitude of little things, but mainly gearbox wear and clagging up of the bores. It had been in the boat since 1967, so it did not owe us anything.

Replaced it with another MD2, which had led a far more sheltered life, and had been chucked out in favour of a modern engine. Cost £250 for the engine and £420 for an overhaul and installation. So far, so good, plus, of course, a shed full of spares... If I get a couple more seasons out of it, which seems perfectly possible, to judge by its behaviour so far, I will be well ahead, because by that time the stern gear will be at the end of its life also.

So I would look for another DV20, and swap it.

 

[dbentley]

Better to replace with new, if you have to pay someone for the work.

I had a similar experience with my Bukh DV20, and faced the same decision - repair existing or install new engine. In my case two factors were clear:-
1. The old engine would have to be removed from the boat to do the repairs.
2. I could not do the work myself, and would have to pay for all labour costs.

The cost of simply removing and then reinstalling the Bukh, even without repair costs, was significant - and what would I have at the end - still a twenty plus year old engine, with no guarantee about how long it will be before something else goes wrong with it.

So I decided the better option was to replace by a new engine. I chose a Beta BD722 20hp, which is just great, and comes with a three year warranty... Definitely the right choice in my case.

 

[iacle]

If you go the new engine route you could get a smaller lighter engine & save £1000 or more on the cost of a new Bukh - but if you can't do the work yourself, you could soon spend the difference in labour modifying the bearers, engine mountings etc. You might need a new prop & shaft, exhaust system etc. A new DV24 will be much easier to fit, so could end up cheaper.
As to your existing engine, the mechanic must have removed the head to see that damage - if it's still off, take it to your local automotive engineer for a second opinion. If it's as bad as the first guy said, it's probably not worth repairing. As well as the cylinder liners (which are replaceable), the crankshaft, bearings, big ends & pistons could all be damaged. On top of this, other problems will also appear. My DV20 was running fine, but I removed it to repaint it & found a corroded thermostat housing, rusted exhaust elbow, duff starter clutch & leaking fuel valves. Parts are expensive, so the cost can quickly mount up!