New Carbide Countersink and Drill Stop for 10mm Teak Plugs

Nigelb

Nigelb

Well-Known Member
Joined
10 Nov 2012
Messages
178
Location
Winchester
Visit site
I was hoping to replace a number of Teak deck plugs today, only to find my carbide counter sink had not been stored properly and had acquired some rust.

when looking online I can only find good quality countersink drills with depth stops that are imperial I.e. Amana on Amazon next day delivery but diameter 3/8”. All my teak plugs are 10mm straight profile, so not ideal.

Can anyone recommend a Supplier for good quality countersink drill with stop that is suitable for a 10mm plug please.

Thanks.
 
Plenty of carbice milling cutters on ebay.
A stop can be improvised or borrowed from another tool.
 
Nigelb said:
I was hoping to replace a number of Teak deck plugs today, only to find my carbide counter sink had not been stored properly and had acquired some rust.

when looking online I can only find good quality countersink drills with depth stops that are imperial I.e. Amana on Amazon next day delivery but diameter 3/8”. All my teak plugs are 10mm straight profile, so not ideal.

Can anyone recommend a Supplier for good quality countersink drill with stop that is suitable for a 10mm plug please.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
Nigelb said:
I was hoping to replace a number of Teak deck plugs today, only to find my carbide counter sink had not been stored properly and had acquired some rust.

when looking online I can only find good quality countersink drills with depth stops that are imperial I.e. Amana on Amazon next day delivery but diameter 3/8”. All my teak plugs are 10mm straight profile, so not ideal.

Can anyone recommend a Supplier for good quality countersink drill with stop that is suitable for a 10mm plug please.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I used a Forstner bit when replacing our 10mm deck plugs
 
Graham_Wright said:
Don't think carbide rusts!
Click to expand...
Correct

Is Carbide a metal?
Tungsten Carbide is often referred to as a Hard Metal due to it's very high hardness in relation to other metals. ... Although called a hard metal, Tungsten Carbide is actually a composite material with hard particles of Tungsten Carbide embedded in a softer matrix of metallic Cobalt .

Its only Iron and alloys of iron that rust (iron oxide)
 
Nigelb said:
I was hoping to replace a number of Teak deck plugs today, only to find my carbide counter sink had not been stored properly and had acquired some rust.

when looking online I can only find good quality countersink drills with depth stops that are imperial I.e. Amana on Amazon next day delivery but diameter 3/8”. All my teak plugs are 10mm straight profile, so not ideal.

Can anyone recommend a Supplier for good quality countersink drill with stop that is suitable for a 10mm plug please.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I might be misunderstanding, but if you intend to put new teak plugs in the existing 10mm holes, I wound not recommend trying to drill the old plugs out. Very easy to mess things up.
I prefer to take the old plug out with a very narrow (3mm or so) chisel.
When the plug is out you might want to make the hole a couple of mm's deeper, again best done by hand in my view, with a 10mm wood drill bit or forstner bit, especially if you are replacing the screw with a flat head type.
For making new plug holes I would recommend this type (on a really fast running drill):
Teak Deck Drill Bit 10mm
 
BabaYaga said:
I might be misunderstanding, but if you intend to put new teak plugs in the existing 10mm holes, I wound not recommend trying to drill the old plugs out. Very easy to mess things up.
I prefer to take the old plug out with a very narrow (3mm or so) chisel.
When the plug is out you might want to make the hole a couple of mm's deeper, again best done by hand in my view, with a 10mm wood drill bit or forstner bit, especially if you are replacing the screw with a flat head type.
For making new plug holes I would recommend this type (on a really fast running drill):
Teak Deck Drill Bit 10mm
Click to expand...

I thought the OP's intention was to replace missing plugs by drilling the hole a bit deeper and replacing the screw. It's always difficult to know what people are really asking, as they often aren't clear in their question.

When I did the work on the aged teak deck on my old Hallberg-Rassy, I used a Forstner bit (as you suggested) to deepen the hole, then replaced the original screw with a low-profile screw (the "flat head type" you refer to, which are available from Hallberg-Rassy Parts).
 
Hmm. I have done a few and I use a forester bit to clean out the hole.
To be honest (and I am happy to be corrected ... please do!) ... I remove the screw, back fill the screw hole with epoxy and pop the new plug in (epoxy).
This is a Najad and I feel that the deck teak is very stuck down and the screws are not needed.

Mark
 
pvb said:
I thought the OP's intention was to replace missing plugs by drilling the hole a bit deeper and replacing the screw. It's always difficult to know what people are really asking, as they often aren't clear in their question.

When I did the work on the aged teak deck on my old Hallberg-Rassy, I used a Forstner bit (as you suggested) to deepen the hole, then replaced the original screw with a low-profile screw (the "flat head type" you refer to, which are available from Hallberg-Rassy Parts).
Click to expand...

Thanks Baba Yaga, pvb & Mark,

The deck is screwed onto gel foam sub-deck (no bonding), the original vindo screws are counter sunk with a slight dome head so I was initially looking for a good quality 10mm countersink to bore out another 3mm for new plugs. However I realise now that I can use a Forester Bit and then a low profile flat screw from Hallberg-Rassy. This is a much better solution as I save myself at least 2mm, which is a lot on a teak deck!

Many Thanks.
 
Nigelb said:
Thanks Baba Yaga, pvb & Mark,

The deck is screwed onto gel foam sub-deck (no bonding), the original vindo screws are counter sunk with a slight dome head so I was initially looking for a good quality 10mm countersink to bore out another 3mm for new plugs. However I realise now that I can use a Forester Bit and then a low profile flat screw from Hallberg-Rassy. This is a much better solution as I save myself at least 2mm, which is a lot on a teak deck!

Many Thanks.
Click to expand...

Do you mean Forstner Bit? I've never heard of a "forester" bit.
 
Mark Payne said:
Hmm. I have done a few and I use a forester bit to clean out the hole.
To be honest (and I am happy to be corrected ... please do!) ... I remove the screw, back fill the screw hole with epoxy and pop the new plug in (epoxy).
This is a Najad and I feel that the deck teak is very stuck down and the screws are not needed.

Mark
Click to expand...

Until 1987 Hallberg Rassy only used silicone sealant under their teak decks so the screws are very much needed. I recently removed the teak deck from my 1987 HR 352 so can testify to that. The teak planks were very easily removed once I’d taken out 1500 screws ?. You don’t say how old your Najad is, but they shared many of the same construction methods as HR.
 
andyc352 said:
Until 1987 Hallberg Rassy only used silicone sealant under their teak decks so the screws are very much needed. I recently removed the teak deck from my 1987 HR 352 so can testify to that. The teak planks were very easily removed once I’d taken out 1500 screws ?. You don’t say how old your Najad is, but they shared many of the same construction methods as HR.
Click to expand...
Thanks Andy
Our Najad 380 is 2006. The screws are flat headed star drive (Torx). I hear talk for a lower profile one from HR but I have not compared it to the ones I have.
I have not done many so no harm will be done but I can see I will be doing more in the future so I had better get my method straight!

M
 
Mark Payne said:
Thanks Andy
Our Najad 380 is 2006. The screws are flat headed star drive (Torx). I hear talk for a lower profile one from HR but I have not compared it to the ones I have.
I have not done many so no harm will be done but I can see I will be doing more in the future so I had better get my method straight!

M
Click to expand...
The heads on the HR flat headed Torx screws are 2.5mm thick. They’re available from HR parts. I searched, but couldn’t find any other (cheaper) supplier. I now only have teak in the cockpit so enjoy not spending many hours replacing teak screws and plugs every year. As we’re in the Algarve at the moment, the deck is also much cooler to walk on in bare feet and the boat is noticeably cooler inside.
 
Nigelb said:
I was hoping to replace a number of Teak deck plugs today, only to find my carbide counter sink had not been stored properly and had acquired some rust.

when looking online I can only find good quality countersink drills with depth stops that are imperial I.e. Amana on Amazon next day delivery but diameter 3/8”. All my teak plugs are 10mm straight profile, so not ideal.

Can anyone recommend a Supplier for good quality countersink drill with stop that is suitable for a 10mm plug please.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
I use Stanley counter bore & plug cutters to match
 
I am about to refurbish the teak deck on my Oyster 406. There appears to be plenty (10-12mm) of teak left, but some screwheads are showing and the caulking needs redoing - I believe the deck is 20 years old. I have read the useful info here and seen the you tube videos - it looks straightforward, if time consuming and painful work. However, I have stalled before even starting - opinion seems to be that a Forstner bit is best for cleaning/deepening the screwholes, but the teak plugs are 8mm and I cannot find an 8mm Forstner bit anywhere. Any pointers on where to try (mail order as I am in Portugal), or what to use instead?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top