Tranona
Well-Known Member
I use Ronseal from B&Q.
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New Cabin Sole Boards
- Thread starter Sailfree
- Start date
I use Ronseal from B&Q.
Sailfree
Well-Known Member
Thanks for replies
Are floor varnishes diluted with white spirit as I intend to start 50% thinners then progress to further coats reducing thinner content.
Are floor varnishes diluted with white spirit as I intend to start 50% thinners then progress to further coats reducing thinner content.
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Thanks for replies
Are floor varnishes diluted with white spirit as I intend to start 50% thinners then progress to further coats reducing thinner content.
You don't need to. Follow the instructions on the tin! You will need minimum of 3 coats but I normally put on 4. You can do it all in a day as it cures very quickly for overcoating.
Sailfree
Well-Known Member
You don't need to. Follow the instructions on the tin! You will need minimum of 3 coats but I normally put on 4. You can do it all in a day as it cures very quickly for overcoating.
Always been told by professionals to apply thinned coats first as thinner coat soaks into the wood deeper and gives a depth of appearance.
Interested in others opinions. problem with some instructions is that they are made with ease of quick good appearance with DIY man in mind
Tranona
Well-Known Member
Always been told by professionals to apply thinned coats first as thinner coat soaks into the wood deeper and gives a depth of appearance.
Interested in others opinions. problem with some instructions is that they are made with ease of quick good appearance with DIY man in mind
That is partly an old wives tale and related to spirit based varnishes which evaporate.
Floor varnish is a chemical and very different from yacht varnish so needs different techniques. So follow the instructions from the manufacturers. It is indeed designed for easy application and provided you can use a brush you will get exactly the finish promised!
If I were a cynic I would say the thin coats first was a ploy to maximise the price the boatyard charges. The varnish still comes off in flakes from the surface of the wood when the film fails. Never any sign of it in the wood!
Sailfree
Well-Known Member
I use Ronseal from B&Q.
CONCLUSION - thanks for all advice and thanks to crew member that helped complete all the work.
Bought 4 no Teak and Holly veneered boards from Robbins timber and teak lipping. (Not cheap at £300 a sheet!) Laminate would not be acceptable to 1st officer.
On advice from a friend that used to work and later teach woodwork only put teak lipping on edge of steps in cabin floor.
Original boards were hand trimmed (by eye!)to be badly fitting by Jeanneau so added tape to get correct edge profiles. Cut new boards using a plunge saw on a beam, bosch jigsaw with finished curves using a 0.5" edge router using usable bits of the curves from the Jeanneau boards as a guide.
Varnished using ronseal clear varnish (water based). Initial results using a roller and brush showed the grain rather than a smooth varnish. Finish improved greatly when I just used a brush and applied a thicker coat that initially looked like a layer of spilt milk. Ronseal is self levelling to some extent and finish is now good.
Open hatches originally had surface raised opening catches. New ones are now rebated to be flush.
Only comment so far is that at present the teak surface with Ronseal is "softer" than the sprayed Jeanneau boards I'm not sure of the finish but saw it at factory getting 7 coats (dried with heaters for immediate next coat). At present it looks great but only time will tell ref durability. Old boards were in a very poor state but it reflected 10yrs on the charter market.
Got all the holly lines to line up. Only intended to do high wear areas eg Saloon but opened forward cabin door and new boards are 60mm between holly strips and old are 50mm. It did not look right! Luckily just had enough timber off cuts to replace 2 small front cabin boards so now all lines up.
Not using edge teak lipping on all 5 no floor opening hatches definitely improved appearance and note that on old boards the edge veneer just behind the lipping still wore. Will see how it goes but if edges do wear excessively I can remove 5mm all round each hatch and add teak lipping later (I bought 20m of it!!)
I may bring a couple of the boards from the aft cabins and bunk bed cabin back to UK and cut replacements in UK on future visits (still have tools stored in UK as only apartment in Portugal).
Will try to re-varnish some of the internal surfaces but decided Ronseal diamond hard floor varnish is not suitable as it runs very easy.
Hopefully anyone searching this subject will find the above advice given by so many - thanks - and my results.
Now I have boards that fit well if they ever need renewing I think I would overlay them with a 6mm thick teak and holly veneer sheet but hopefully these will last me out now that boat is no longer chartered.
It does look good just got to remind myself that its a sailing boat to be used and not a piece of furniture to be cherished!
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